Common and worst mistakes you should avoid as a poultry farmer

These are common and worst mistakes chicken keepers makes

1. When you kept your chicken in a unsecured coop:   A sturdy predator proof coop is absolutely essential for backyard chicken flocks. When predator proofing a coop you have to look up, down and right in front of you. Can a predator come down from above to get into the run? Are the ventilation holes big enough for anything to fit in? Are there spaces anywhere that a predator can fit through? Are there gaps below or above the door? Are the door latches easy enough for an animal to work? Can a predator dig underneath to get into the coop or run? Can the run wire be pried loose easily?   Many urban chicken keepers don't worry about predator proofing much because they never see predators in their neighborhoods or they think the types of wild animals in the suburbs aren't truly predators. It's important to note that raccoons can open door latches, snakes will kill chickens even though they're too big for them to eat, squirrels will eat eggs and even chicks if they get hungry enough and stray dogs will chase chickens down tossing them about like toys until the chicken dies or escapes.

2. Not locking the chickens up before dark:  Many predators are active around dusk. The waning light gives them a bit of protection from sight while there's still enough light to see what they're doing. It's an especially vulnerable time for the chickens to be outside. Many predators can see just fine at night and chickens have notoriously poor eyesight in the dark. This definitely tips the scale in favor of the nocturnal predator! By getting the chickens into the coop and shutting the door before dusk, you can prevent sneak attacks from waiting predators.

3. Not counting your chickens at lock up:  I have a kid that was notorious for this! Sometimes chickens don't go into their coop at bedtime. If they are left outside overnight they have 8+ hours of time with any predator that may be in the area. Sometimes a chicken may be in a safe spot and be ok through the night, other times they got distracted and just decided to roost on the first close spot when night fell. Or the kid may have shut the door before the last chicken wandered in for the night and now she's stuck outside sitting on the ground outside the coop all night.  The safest place for the chickens to be overnight is in their coop, so a nightly count is essential. We are now in the habit of doing a count each night and if all the chickens aren't in the coop, we grab a flashlight and go hunting for them.  

4. Water hazards near the chicken coop:   I wrote Chickens Can't Swim, Backyard Water Safety about chickens getting themselves into small ponds, buckets of water, kiddie pools and other wet situations. Once thoroughly wet a chickens feathers become heavy and they cannot keep themselves afloat. In the case of tall buckets they may lean in to drink and fall in upside down without enough space to right themselves. It's best to keep chickens away from all deep containers of water to prevent drowning.

5. Keeping the chickens area free from small debris:  Hardware disease sounds like something that is made up but it's a very real affliction for farm animals. Chickens will eat almost anything including metal pieces like small screws, metal washers, staples, small pieces of wire, metal shavings...ya know, pretty much anything they may possibly find.  The first problem is that when these sharp objects make their way through the chicken they can puncture the crop, stomach, intestines etc. The second problem is that they start to rust and breakdown which leeches dangerous metals into the chicken poisoning them. It's not a true chicken 'disease' but it is an affliction that can kill them.  Related reading: How to prevent Hardware Disease.

6. Rat poisons, pesticides and herbicides used near the coop:  If you must use rodent, insect and weed prevention methods it's best to use non chemical methods near chickens. Mice can die from the poison and then be eaten by the chickens. Chemical bait that the insect takes back to the nest can be dropped or spilled by the critter then be eaten by your chickens. Plants treated with an herbicide can also be eaten by chickens. Try to use non chemical methods whenever possible to keep your chickens safe. When dealing with a mouse problem I put down snap traps nightly and pick them up in the morning before letting the chickens out. I also like this Magic Mouse Box trap from my Stoney Acres. I've had good results with dusting diatomaceous earth on ant hills. There are lots of non chemical ways to remove weeds like vinegar, salts, boiling water and just plain pulling them.  If you must spray your lawn, keep the chickens confined for several days to allow the chemicals to dissipate before allowing them out. 

7. Mixing chicken sizes in one coop:  Trying to just toss chickens of various ages and sizes together is a recipe for disaster! When introducing chickens to each other you need to integrate them slowly to keep squabbles to a minimum. Size and temperment should also be considered. Standard size chickens can be housed with bantam size chickens safely, but a standard sized rooster can hurt a bantam hen if he attempts to mate her. Keep this in mind when choosing your flock. 

Also be very careful of keeping ducks and chickens together. Male ducks (drakes) may attempt to mate a chicken hen and it will eventually kill her. If follow these steps , the mistakes can be avoided.

AVOIDABLE MISTAKES POULTRY FARMER MAKE AND HOW TO FIX IT.

As a poultry  farmer, everyone has made mistakes at one point or another, some of them are harmless, while others can lead to your birds getting seriously injured, or even killed. Hopefully you can learn from some of these common mistakes, and prevent them from happening in your poultry.

1. Not noticing a sick bird in time

It is very important to observe your birds everyday so that you can quickly detect a sick or injured bird, you will notice it in time to to save them from death. Becoming accustomed to your birds normal behavior, and you should also observe them daily is a good idea. All your birds should be active and have nice bright
eyes, healthy red or pink combs, and their feathers should be clean, glossy and well preened.
(Keep in mind that there are exceptions to these last two while your birds are going through their annual molt).

Symptoms of ill birds include:
Moving slowly, and not interested in food or treats
Refusing to come out of the coop in the morning
Not eating or drinking
Huddling on the roost or floor during the day with closed eyes
Head pulled tightly in
Droopy wings and tail
Heavy or strained breathing
Decreased egg production
Straining
Acting lethargic
Ruffled feathers (Keep in mind that hens will sometimes ruffle their feathers when cold)
Pale or purple comb, and wattles
Cloudy, leaky, swollen, or watery eyes
Sneezing, wheezing, or coughing
Swollen legs or feet

When you have a sick or injured bird, it is best to separate it as soon as possible. Inspect the ill birds weight, vent, face, mouth, and nostrils and look it over for blood, scabs, and other signs
of injury..

2. Using toxic chemicals around the coop

You have a rat problem in the coop, and there are some annoying weeds growing in your birds run. Well the right thing to do would be bring out the rat poison, and herbicides ? Wrong! Most chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, and pest poisons, are deadly to your birds. It is best
to avoid using such items around your coop, run, or anywhere that your birds range. Even if you put out rat, or other rodent poisons were you are sure your birds will not get it, your birds may find and eat the dead or dyeing rat, in which case the birds may ingest the poison into your birds
If you spray weeds or grass around your coop. The chemicals can cause illness or death to your birds. It is best to use
such chemicals sparingly and with caution around your poultry.

3. Buying birds from a dishonest chicken breeders  or unknown sources

Buying birds from unknown sources is very risky for poultry  farmer,  The birds you bought  from unknown  source may have health issues or carry deceases that may not be apparent at first. Another reason not to buy birds from unknown sources is to avoid dishonest breeders. While there are a lot of very good breeders with very high quality birds, there are some that either are not knowledgeable about the birds they raise, or just plain deceptive.
When adding birds to your flock, it is a good idea to quarantine them for a little while before adding them to the rest of your the flock. http://chickenandsnail.blogspot.com.

4, Overcrowding and overheating of chicks in their house.

Many people make the mistake of keeping chicks in a small brooder until they are well
feathered out. This is a mistake for many reasons, for one thing, chicks grow very fast, and will outgrow a small brooder (such as a plastic storage tote) very quickly. The general rule of thumb for how much space your chicks will need is a minimum of 1/2 a sq foot for the first week, 1 sq foot for the second week, and than increase that every week by 1 sq foot. (keep in mind that you can get away with slightly less space for bantams, quail, and other small birds,
and you will need slightly more than that for large birds such as turkeys and geese and broiler,   this does not mean that you have to give your birds a bigger brooder each week, but take in to consideration before you purchase your chicks, how much brooder space they will need as they grow.
Observing mother hens has convinced me that baby chicks do not need as much heat as we are often told. I have seen many a mother hen out scratching with her chicks on 20F and 30F degree mornings, and even one hen and her 2 week old chick out eating on a 5F degree morning! Don't get me wrong, chicks do need to be kept warm, but they don't need to roast under a heat lamp,
all the time. Chicks out with a mother hen, would go out and scratch for an hour or two, and than come and warm up before going out to eat and scratch again. As they get older, the time spent out eating and scratching will increase. Chicks that are kept in a heated brooder all the time
have far less tolerance to cold temps, and often are poor winter layers. When setting up or constructing your brooder, make sure that your baby's have a place where thecan get out from under the heat. Observe them closely and make sure they are comfortable. As long as
you are not getting temps 30F's or below, your chicks should be ready to leave the brooder by the time they are fully feathered out.

5, Keeping your birds in a dirty or poorly ventilated dark house. 

This is a common mistake. Keeping birds housed in dirty, poorly ventilated, and dark coops can lead to many health issues such as respiratory problems, mite/lice infestations, higher susceptibility to frost bite, decreased egg production, and a host of other health issues and Diceases. Make sure to keep your bedding clean, and change it often. Make sure your coop
is well ventilated with plenty of air flow. Light is also important. Don't keep your birds cooped up in a dark coop without natural light.

6, Good, clean bedding is a must.

Not predator proofing your coop
Your getting ready to build your coop. Chicken wire is the obvious thing to use right?
Unfortunately it probably is, but it is not the best thing to use. Predators can easily tear through it, and carry off your defenseless birds. While chicken wire is good for interior use, and on coops where predation is not an issue, it is not recommended for exterior use. Hard ware cloth (though more expensive) is much stronger and safer. Keep in mind while building your coop, that almost everything loves a good chicken dinner, so make sure your coop is  predator proof.

7, Not buying/building a big enough coop
Overcrowding can lead to stress, cannibalism, feather pecking, and other issues. Chickens need
a minimum of 4 sq feet each in the coop, and preferably 10 sq feet of run space. Remember this
is a bare minimum, it is best to (if possible) at least double that size. Remember, there is no
such thing as a coop that is too big. You may plan on getting 12 chickens at first, but you may
want to add a few more in the future, so instead of rebuilding a new coop when your flock expands, it's a good idea to build a bigger coop from the start.

8, Not picking the right breed

Poultry  birds are bred for many different purposes, such as meat, eggs, exhibition, etc. Before buying your chicken,  decide why you want chickens. Do you want them for production? Pets? Meat?
Decide carefully on what breeds you want. For example if you want pets, don't buy a breed known for being flighty. Keep climate in mind too, and pick a breed that does well where you live.
Handling your birds is also a good idea to get them accustomed to you
Be prepared At one point or another you may very well end up with a sick or injured bird. When this happens you don't want to be caught unprepared. This is why it is good to have a first aid kit on hand.

I believe this article helps you to have a better experience with your birds! If you have any questions, comments, or would like to add anything to this post,  please do so below