TREATMENT, PREVENTION AND CAUSE OF WRY NECK IN CHICKEN

Before anything, you must know What is wry neck in chicken ?

Wry neck is one of the deadly chicken diesese and is a condition that is often referred to as “crook neck” and it typically affects ducklings and baby chicks, adult birds can also suffer from it if they are being fed an incorrect feed.
Chicken with this disorder cannot hold their heads up on their own and as it progressively gets worse, affected birds start to fall over or lie on their backs unable to walk freely on their own. This can be very distressing for owner and bird. They have no control and can so easily crash and bang into things causing more injury to themselves. I have suffered this my self with my favourite bird and I can certainly say from my own experience it's not pleasant and you often feel helpless as this is not a quick disease to cure. It usualy fatal simply because chicks, ducklings or affected adult birds simply cannot eat or drink any water which means they get dehydrated and if not helped to feed, birds suffering from the condition will starve to death.

Now, What are the causes of Wry neck? The condition can be caused by various things which includes the following:
1. A genetic disorder
2. An injury to the head
3. A vitamin deficiency
4. Ingesting toxins and
5. Botulism

There are some Breeds of chicken which prone to getting this condition Certain breeds are more prone to developing the condition through injuries they get to their heads. This includes both Polish and Silkies because their skulls don't offer the same amount of protection as found in other breeds and due to their head plumage, they are more likely to be pecked on their heads by other birds that live in the same environment. Polish and silkies have vaulted skulls and one peck on the right place can so easily cause this. It is advisable to separate any aggressive birds from a flock if you have either Silkies or Polish chickens running with other breeds. The other reason for bullying and pecking is when too many birds are kept together in the same environment. Over crowding can be a real issue so you have to make sure your birds have enough space to run around. Vitamin deficiency If birds are fed an incorrect diet and in particular one that is vitamin deficient and more especially if it does not contain enough Vitamin E, chickens can develop wry neck. No matter what the cause might be, it is very worth while upping the amount of Vitamin E your birds are receiving in their diet. However, you should not expect immediate results because any treatment will take a few weeks to take effect which is why it's important to start supplementing their feed as soon as possible.
A correct diet should be a good quality flock raiser/layer pellet that has all the nutritional requirements your flock needs. Treats should be limited to no more than 10% of their diet. To build up your flock's Vitamin B1 intake, it's good idea to add a little Brewer's Yeast, sunflower seeds, wheat germ or bran to their diets as all of these are very good, natural sources of the vitamin.

These are what to do to treat wry neck in chicken.

Whatever might has caused the condition, it's important to separate any bird with wry neck from the rest of the flock to avoid them being picked on or trampled. You would need to feed them and to make sure they are drinking enough water. One way of doing this is to soak some bread in fresh clean water before feeding it to the bird – like this you avoid them aspirating the liquid into their lungs which could prove fatal. Non iron Polyvisol for children is also reccomended to boost the chick or duckling during this stressful time, one drop twice per day. Once your bird is seperated keep it quiet to keep the stress levels down. During this difficult time you will need to be there very regular for your bird in order to feed and water him or her. Also don't leave open water in the area you have your bird. As they cannot control what they are doing they can easily become stuck and could possibly drown.

A shallow thin lipped watrerer worked well for the affected bird. Also this was the best way for him to drink as you can control the water and not worry about him drowning. Wry neck is not an easy, straightforward or quick disease to fix. But you have to be prepared for the long haul with any bird suffering from it.

Adding molasses to their diet is also beneficial because it is full of vitamins and valuable nutrients. It's also better to add a natural source of Vitamin E to their diet rather than just the vitamin alone. The reason being that to absorb Vitamin E, it's necessary to add selenium too so the vitamin E can work. Natural sources provide both which makes life a lot easier.

There are quite a few spices that are great sources of both Vitamin E and selenium which include:
Cayenne pepper
Cloves Cumin
Turmeric
Caraway
Cinnamon Other very good and rich sources of Vitamin E can be found in: Alfalfa Dandelion Nettle Raspberry leaf Rose hips Spinach Sunflower seeds Pumpkin seeds Olive oil .

How to prevent wry neck in chicken ?

As with most things that are health related in any animal, prevention is always that much easier than cure and this applies to wry neck in poultry too. Diet is very important, so you need to make sure your flock is getting enough Vitamin E and B1 in their food. You may like to consider supplementing their diet with some great natural sources of these vitamins which not only ensures a healthier flock, but it also adds a lot of variety to their feed. Here are some supplements you can add to your flock to ensure enough vitamins given to your birds always. Making sure chickens are being fed a well balanced diet that contains all the right amounts of vitamins is very important because it reduces the chances of them suffering from wry neck and if you do notice any of your chicks or adult birds are developing the wry neck, the first thing you need to do is up the level of Vitamin E and B1 you are giving them in their diet. You also need to separate any bird with the condition from the rest of the flock to make sure they don't get bullied and so that you can hand feed them, making sure they are drinking enough water too.
Keeping them somewhere that's quiet also helps them to recover as when they are disturbed this causes more thrashing about from the affected bird. It is advisable not to breed from affected birds in case it is genetic. It could be passed to others.

TIPS ON HOW TO RAISE CHICKEN FOR THE BEGINNERS

Raising chicken chicks seems can be very difficult to the beginner. I can say that because I was a beginning homesteader only six and a half years ago! I’m here to tell you my journey through raising chicks and you can do it if you follow the informations on this blog.  Let’s get started.

The first question to ask yourself is , Where do I get my chicks?

You might not believe it, but you can order chicks in the mail! And in any other farm in your area, In my area, Obasanjo farm has chicks year round and Zarteck also have a local farm store that I’ve bought chicks from. I’ve never bought chicks from Tractor Supply but I’ll admit they seem to take better care of their chicks because they have less of them
I feel that some of the employees do not treat the little chick-a-dees well. What I suggest is going to your farm stores early in the morning while they’re opening to see how dedicated they are to cleaning the brooders and keeping the maintenance up for healthy animals.

My local farm store had great chicks and they’re very dedicated to the quality of life and products at their little store. They even have a rabbitry in the back, which is awesome in my opinion! I have to go ahead and tell you that the last two times I bought chicks, I ordered them online. We’ve also bought ducklings online. These are the two stores we’ve purchased baby animals from:

I’ve received healthy animals from both of the above businesses and The Chick Hatchery seems to even give you an extra chick! My friend thinks this is a “insurance policy”. The fact of the matter when other chicks are sometimes you lose one. Most companies will replace dead chicks, but be sure to check the policies before choosing who to use. Also, remember, if you have fertilized eggs you can just hatch your own!

What did you need in order to raise chicken chicks?

The Brooder: Your brooder can be very simple or not. When I started raising chicks I bought a large plastic storage container/Tupperware  and raised the chicks in our spare bedroom. Now we raise our chicks in a wooden brooder I built out in the hen house. The one thing you want to make sure of is that your chicks have enough room. I’m trying to nurse a chick back to health right now from being trampled. If your chicks don’t have enough room they’ll have to fight each other to get to where they’re going and your weaker chicks might die.


Lamp for heat: The heat lamp will be a special lamp you buy from a farm store or online. You’ll need a way to adjust the light closer or further from the chicks, and we’ll go over that in just a moment. I used to use a clear bulb and now I use a red bulb. Using a red bulb heats your area up a little warmer and reduces the risk of your chicks picking their feathers or if wounded, pecking at the open wound. Some even say the red bulb reduces the likelihood of restless chicks. I can’t speak to whether it’s true or not, from my experiences.
Water: You don’t want your waterer to be too ‘open’ because it’ll increase the likelihood of the chicks drowning in it. The first few times I raised chicks I put a few pebbles in the trough and I used this waterer. I’ve personally never had a chick drown, but that doesn’t mean it won’t happen. I now use a larger waterer, the same that I use with my adult chickens, and it works just fine. Again, if you’re worried, you can always add a few pebbles in the trough to avoid the chick from submerging its head inside.
A Spot for Food and Grit: In the link above for the waterer, it comes with a feed container also. I use the small, quart feeders and waterers when I have 10 chicks or less. I currently have 500 chicks in my brooder so the small containers aren’t enough. There are few different options for feeders. There’s the trough and the hanging feeder (doesn’t HAVE to hang).  I’ve used the trough and don’t like it very much. When the chicks are rather small, they get their heads stuck in the holes and once they’re a bit larger they can’t seem to get the feed at the bottom of the trough. The hanging feeder is perfect because it’s a slow feeder so I only have to fill it once every couple of days and the food is easily accessible. You’ll need grit if your chicks won’t’ be free-ranging, having access to small stones and what not to digest food. I don’t give my chicks grit, but I suggest reading about what grit is and if you need it for your specific situation!
Bedding: There are so many options for your bedding. Some people use shredded newspapers, puppy pads, or some other shredded paper. I use saw dust shavings because I feel they’re more absorbent, smell great, and there are different options for size. I use the fine shavings when they’re younger so it’s easier for them to walk on. You only need about an inch of bedding in my experience. Whatever you use, make sure it’s a safe material for your chickies and it’s easy for their growing legs to walk on. You want a material that promotes healthy and strong legs!
How to keep your chicks alive?
First, know that chicks are tougher than you may think. Unfortunately, I learned this the hard way. There’ve been a few times in the winter that I turned the heat lamp off outside when it definitely should’ve been on. The chicks survived when I expected them not to, but I definitely do not advise you to do what I’ve done. Raising chicks is fun, but mistakes are possible.

Your day old chicks need to have a spot in their brooder to go to if they’re cold. This spot will, of course, be underneath the heat lamp. For the first week, that spot should be 95º.
Every week, decrease the temperature by 5º. Around 6 weeks the chicks should have all their feathers and should be able to withstand temperatures of 70º. If you’re raising chicks in the deep of winter, I suggest keeping the heat lamp around if your brooder is big enough just in case. Your chicks can freeze to death but can also die of heat stroke.

I will make it a little simple with a tip! If the chicks are all trying to get away from the heat lamp then your brooder is too hot. If the chicks are all huddled together under the lamp, they’re not warm enough. You want your chicks evenly scattered throughout your brooder at night. In the daytime, they’ll rest a bit but should mostly be up and peeping and poking around the brooder checking it out. I turn the heat lamp off during the day and on at night, so they have the option to get under it in the night.

When your chicks are resting, They’ll be laying on their side and all sprawled out. When beginning, I’d say definitely check them and make sure they’re not actually dead but also checking them will familiarize you with the actions of your new baby chicken.

What to do when your chicks get sick:

I have many sick chick while raising chicks. The chick had bumble foot and he got over it. I separated them, which you should always immediately do if you believe you have a sick chicken. I mixed coconut oil in his food, fed them kale and carrot bits, and put apple cider vinegar (
ACV) in their water and after 2-3 weeks they were back to normal.

As a preventative, you can add a little ACV to your chicks water every time you fill it up, just be sure to not add too much! One thing I have had to deal with a few times is what we call “Pasty Butt” and it can be deadly. This is when your chicks vent (where the stools, and eventually eggs, come out) becomes clogged with hard poo. The poo sticks to the chicks ‘downy’ feathers and they have no way of getting the hard poop off. As you might have already realized but this prevents the chick from pooping.

Pasty butt is common in chicks that have been sent in the mail because they’re going through the stress of being shipped, getting a little hotter than they should, not having access to water, etc.

If you see that your chick has pasty butt, you need to act immediately. If you’ve ever been constipated you’ll know that it’s nothing to wish upon another being. Sorry for “TMI”!

This is how to treat pasty butt in chicks

Pick up the chicks with your hand over its wings so it can’t flap around and hurt itself. Gently turn the chick over and wet its pasty butt. Dip your Q-Tip in the coconut oil and dab it on the dried feces. NOTE: Be extremely careful while doing this. You don’t want to rip the dried poop from the little chicks booty because you can open a wound and hurt it. Slowly alternate from dipping the Q-Tip in water and oil of choice until the poop starts to soften. You can then start to slowly peel the poop off with the Q-Tip. Change the Q-Tip as often as possible and never, ever, ever penetrate the vent hole with your Q-Tip. This can severely harm the chick. Just a heads up, your chick is going to be really pissed off. The first time you do this won’t be pleasant for either party, but it must be done. Once you’ve successfully removed all the poop from the rear, smear some clean coconut oil on and around the vent (NOT IN!) and put the chick back in the brooder.

How to Prevent Pasty Butt:

Make sure you have a large enough brooder so that they can comfortably get under the lamp if too cool and away from the lamp if too warm.
Don’t feed finisher at a young age 0-10 weeks they should be fed “Starter” feed, 10 weeks you switch them to “Grower”, and around 12  weeks you can give them regular starter  feed till adult or market sales.

Now, go out and start raising chicks and have fun! It’s a wonderful experience and an amazing process to see these bitty animals going into adult hens and roos.
It will also be a such of income for you if you can do it in large number. Raising chicken chicks is fun and also profitable, you can try it today, good luck.
 

HOW TO RAISE TURKEY FOR MEAT AND FOR BUSINESS.

In this post I will Introduce you on how To raise Turkeys. If you are one of those people who are thinking of raising turkeys? And your answer is yes, then you have come to the right place. A lot of people have a challenge to start and usually go through a lot of mistake when raising turkey. There are 4 Important Considerations you must consider before You Invest In Turkeys Many people often ask how to raise turkeys. Raising turkeys has long been a practice by our ancestors. Turkey tending can be dated back to the time of Abraham Lincoln. The first thing to consider when learning how to raise turkeys is the kinds of turkey breeds.There are three major species of turkeys, These are the Broad Breasted White Turkey, the Wild turkey or local turkey and foreign turkey, depending on your location. The foreignTurkey and Local turkey is the most commercialized breed. The second thing to consider, is the size of the turkey cage. The pen should usually have a size of 10x10 feet. A pen with this size can house at around twelve to thirteen turkeys. But if you want to house more turkeys, you can add additional space in the form of a sun porch. A sun porch usually ranges from an additional 8x10 feet to 10x10 feet. With the additional space provided by the sun porch, you can now house at least 20 to 30 turkeys. After housing, you should now consider what should go inside the turkey pen. What is inside a turkey pen are a roster, water feeder, pellet feeder and litter area Turkey pens housing flying turkeys should really have a roster. During the first days of stay of your turkeys in the pen, cover the litter area first. The turkeys might confuse the litter area for the feeding area. They might end up eating up their own waste. As for the water area, place shiny colored marbles in the water to catch the attention of the turkeys. But do not fill the waterer to the brim. There have been cases that the turkeys drown in the waterer. As for the flooring, it would be better if it was just plain dirt. You can also place hay or straw if you like. It is also not advised to use cement as flooring because it is very hard on the feet of the turkeys. Another thing to consider, when learning how to raise turkeys, is the food and water you give to your turkeys. There are several types of feeds. These are prestarter feeds, starter feeds, grower feeds and finisher feeds. As their names suggests, these four types of feeds are based on the age of when to feed them to the turkey. Starter feed from day old to eight weeks, grower feed from 8 weeks to 10 weeks and Finisher from 10/weeks to adult or to the market. The quality of these feeds is important because they will affect the quality of the turkey meat. As for the water, always remember to never give cold water to your turkeys. Cold water is lethal to the turkeys. For drinking, it is better to give them lukewarm water. If you have extra budget, you can also dilute minerals and vitamins on their drinking water for added nutrients. When raising day old turkey you must remember that that turkey don't know how to eat on their own , because of this, whenever you are getting your turkey you must add chickens to them so that the turkeys can learn how to eat and drinks from the chicken. You must also buy vitamin drug, the vitamin must be given for the first 5 days, Antibiotic must also be given from.6 day to 11 day. If you followed all these tips, you are on your way to be a successful turkey farmer. Get you turkey today and try all mentioned tips.

SICK CHICKEN SYMPTOMS AND PREVENTION

  These are guide to Sick Chicken Symptoms and how to prevent it.

When we talk about chicken illnesses,  it’s good to know what a sick chicken looks like, so we can try to help our to make them feel better quickly. We are all uncertain at times, but there are certain criteria you can use to detect if your bird has sick chicken symptoms. First, let’s explore what a healthy chicken looks and acts like.

How Does the Chicken Look and Act?
A healthy chicken is a busy chicken. It is aware of what the other chickens are doing. The healthy chicken is pecking the ground, scratching the dirt, and chasing others away from a tasty morsel. When you first open the coop in the morning, the chickens should eagerly exit the building, raring to start a new day. They should be happy to see food added to the bowls or feeders and start eating. Any chickens who stay on the roost, or worse, are hiding in a dark corner should be immediately and gently checked over.

When you look at a healthy chicken it looks – healthy!  Feathers are glossy and in place, the comb and wattles are waxy looking and full of color, and the eyes are bright and clear.

Healthy Chickens are Communicating
Chickens talk to each other during the day and some chickens talk a lot! When you spend time with your chickens you will start to recognize certain sounds that are made repeatedly. While my chickens are free ranging, I am often doing cleaning chores around the barnyard. But, sometimes I hear a certain sound coming from my chickens and I just know it is an alarm of some sort. Whether they saw a predator, noticed a hawk in the sky, or were injured by another flock member, the sound is unmistakably alarming. It differs greatly from the regular clucking and squawking that they make. Another alarming sound is any respiratory sound. Coughing, heavy breathing sounds and raspy sounds are signs of serious illness and should be evaluated quickly. With the current wave of avian influenza sweeping the country, it would be good to familiarize yourself with avian influenza symptoms. Always isolate the bird with sick chicken symptoms and reduce the chances of any contagious disease spreading through the flock.

Healthy Chickens have Healthy Droppings
Some may feel this goes a bit too far but notice the chicken’s droppings. There are two basic types of droppings that are excreted daily. One type is often seen first thing in the morning. It is firmer and capped with white urine salts.  Less frequently, the chicken will expel a runnier brown or green, fecal dropping. While both of these droppings will have a slight odor, you should note if the odor is extremely bad or if the appearance is really out of the normal range for your flock. Keep in mind that certain vegetables, such as beet greens may turn the droppings a different color temporarily, without the chicken appearing ill.

Healthy Chickens Have Healthy Appetites
Chickens who are unwell do not eat much. Sometimes they stop eating completely. This is another reason it is good to observe your flock when you are feeding. If a chicken does not come for food, stays off to itself, and is not pecking at the ground for insects or morsels, something could definitely be wrong. What follows next is weight loss, another sign of illness. Young chickens are continually growing and maturing. A young chicken who does not eat enough will not gain weight like the others in the flock. The young birds continue to fill out in size for the first 6 months. Even after egg laying begins, some growth and weight gain can still be occurring. Older hens and roosters should be able to maintain their weight.  The older hen that begins to look scrawny and small, may be suffering from an undetected illness. Some of my chickens prefer to eat from the feeder and some prefer to free range while I am supervising.  Knowing what is normal for them is also a good indication of how they are doing health wise.

Healthy Young Hens are Laying Eggs
Many factors can influence egg laying, including age, molt, weather, stressful environment, and placement of nesting boxes. If you reliably get an egg a day from a good laying hen, and then she stops laying, you may wonder why have my chickens stopped laying? The quality of the eggshell can also be a sign of problems. Thin, weak shells can be caused by inadequate nutrition or inadequate mineral absorption. Knowing what to feed chickens will help you avoid any illnesses due to inadequate nutrition.

Chicken diseases and illness can be caused by a number of things. Viruses, bacteria, molds, fungus, and parasites are the infectious type of illness. Often, if one of these occur, more than one bird will be affected. Some sick chicken symptoms are mild, leading to a day or two of not feeling up to par and exhibiting a low appetite. Other diseases, such as avian influenza can and will wipe out the flock in a matter of days. My recommendation is to not panic when sick chicken symptoms are observed. Assess the bird’s overall health, using the sick chicken symptoms listed here. First, isolate the sick chicken, to help prevent the spread of any possible contagious illness.

Sick Chicken Symptoms

Is the bird active or listless?
Is the bird grooming or is it unkempt with ruffled feathers?
Is the bird interested in eating?
Is the bird coughing or expelling fluid?
Is the bird able to stand on its own?
Is the hen still laying eggs?
Is the bird excreting normal or abnormal droppings?
Preventing Illness
As is the case with all types of animals, prevention and a healthy life will go a long way to preventing serious illness. Feeding an appropriate healthy diet, supplementing with herbs, and treating the chickens with probiotic-rich foods will help them ward off many minor illnesses. Fermented feed, apple cider vinegar (2 tablespoons in a gallon of water) and garlic powder added to the feed (sprinkled on top) will all help build a strong immune system in your flock. Clean and sanitary conditions are also important. Removing droppings that attract flies, keeping their coop dry and well ventilated and replacing soiled wet beddind immediately will all help the the chicken to stay healthy.
Whenever suspect any of the above symptoms in your chicken please try and give them appropriate drugs or call on vet doctor for proper treatment.

WHEN WILL YOUR CHICKEN START LAYING EGGS ?

If raising a backyard chicken was a business, the ultimate prize would be a hen’s first egg.
To extend this feeling of exhilaration and help hens produce wholesome, nutritious eggs long-term, care for the flock differently as they begin laying.
 
The transition from pullet to egg-laying hen often occurs at 4-5 months of age, subject to breed, environment and nutrition. Laying breed pullets will begin laying at about 18 to 20 weeks of age. A rooster is not necessary for egg production.
 
The first eggs a hen lays may be irregular – possibly small in size, with soft shells, no yolks or double yolks – but, after a week or so, egg production should become more consistent, with peak performance at about 30 weeks of age.
 
High-producing hens can lay up to 300 eggs per year; however, first year hens may lay fewer: about 200-250 eggs apiece. Because it takes approximately 25 hours for a hen to produce one egg, six eggs per week is an ideal goal.
 
To help hens reach this target – and stay happy and healthy, consider the following housing and nutrition tips.
Chicken Housing
After moving chicks from the brooder, introduce them directly to the coop that will become their forever home. This helps birds adjust to the coop well in advance of their first lay. Make sure the coop has comfortable nesting boxes that provide privacy to individual hens.
 
Once a hen begins laying, it’s her tendency to lay in the same spot moving forward. Create several comfortable, clean and cozy nesting areas to prevent hens from becoming competitive in the coop.
 
A general rule is to provide one 1-foot square nest box for every four or five hens because the flock will take turns using the boxes. Line each nest box with a thick layer of straw or other bedding to cushion the eggs and keep them clean and unbroken. Keep the nests up off the floor in the darkest corner of the coop.

Be sure all the nest areas have a uniform environment. If the hens decide one nest is preferable to the others, they may all try to use that nest, causing themselves stress, which can lead to egg breakage or egg eating. On our farm, we built the nests into the coops. Outdoor access to the nests allows us to collect eggs without disrupting the flock.
 
When pullets are nearing their first lay, their behavior changes. They may begin spending more time with the rooster, crouching for breeding or investigating the nesting area. At this time, keep hens in the coop for short periods of time. Place golf balls or decoy eggs in the nesting boxes to help the hens understand the use of the nesting boxes.
Chicken Nutrition
Once the first egg appears, the hen’s diet should also be adjusted.


Different nutrients are required to produce eggs as compared to what the pullet needs for growth. Young chicks and pullets need high protein levels as their body and feathers grow. At laying, switching to a complete feed with calcium and omega-3 fatty acids can help hens produce strong shells and nutritious eggs.

Calcium: Calcium is essential to form strong egg shells. If the bird does not secure enough calcium from her feed, she may pull the nutrient from her bones, which could eventually lead to a weak skeletal structure. Since egg shells are developed at night, when birds are not eating, a consistent source of slow-release calcium in the diet is important.

Oyster shells are the most common and reliable source of slow-release calcium. For strong shells and healthy hens, feed a complete layer feed with 16 percent protein and 3.25-4.5 percent calcium, like Purina® Layena® Premium Poultry Feed or Purina® Organic Layer Pellets or Crumbles. If your layer feed does not include Oyster Strong™ System, supplement the diet with free-choice oyster shells to add slow-release calcium.

Omega-3: For even more nutritious eggs, offer laying hens a complete feed that includes flaxseed as a source of Omega-3. For example, when a diet of Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 was fed for at least three weeks, those hens produced large eggs (56 g) that contained 250 mg of Omega-3 per egg. 1 

For comparison, a typical store-bought egg contains 50 mg of Omega-3 fatty acids per large egg (USDA: National Nutrient Base).  Results may vary with factors such as total diet and hen health.  
 
1When fed a diet of Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 exclusively for at least 3 weeks. Based on large egg (56 g). Results may vary with factors such as total diet and hen health. A typical store-bought egg contains 50 mg of Omega-3 fatty acids per large egg (USDA: National Nutrient Base).
  If you can follow these prescription you hen will lay at when due and the egg production will also high.

16 HOMEMADE CHICKEN AND TURKEY TREATS RECIPES

Do you know are some homemade recipes can make your chickens and turkey healthy and productive ? However, a lot of unhealthy treats can hurt your birds. That is why it is important to be sure to feed our chickens healthy snack alternatives. Now, I know what you are thinking. Healthy snack usually equates to a hefty price tag. Which is why we are bringing you over 16 different healthy hen treats that you can make at home.

They are :

1. Frozen Scrambled Egg Pops.

Would you think that chickens wouldn’t like their own eggs? Well, if you thought that, that would be incorrect. Chickens eat pretty much anything and these treats are no different. They are great at giving the chickens protein they need. Plus, when hot weather heads your way, these pops are a great way at keeping them cool too. So if you’d like easy and inexpensive treats for your chickens, then give these cool pops a quick peak. Make these chicken treats.

2. The Frozen Strawberry Treat .

I found this hidden treasure within our last post. I love The Chicken Chick. She is so knowledgeable about all things chickens. Which is why it should be no surprise that you find a second treat for your hens tucked away in the article you were reading about chicken treats. So basically, she takes frozen strawberries, mint leaves, and ice cubes for her chickens to eat when dealing with hot weather. This encourages them to stay in the shade while also giving them nutrients that they love and need. Make these chicken treats.

3. The Chicken Frozen Fruit Smoothie

This is a really great idea to share with your chickens on a hot day. You basically take most fruits that they love and mix it with mint leaves and water. You’ll blend it up like you would any smoothies. Then you’ll place it inside a fruit ring to freeze it. Finally, you’ll give the frozen delicious beverage to your chickens that will really appreciate it during sweltering heat. Make these chicken treats.

4. Fruit and Yogurt Parfaits.

I love fruit and yogurt parfaits. Well, guess what? So will your chickens. They are able to eat many fruits and vegetables without facing adverse effects of them and dairy is very similar. So you can take fruits and vegetables and mix them with yogurt or cottage cheese, and your hens will be very happy. It is also very healthy for them too as it gives them necessary vitamins plus calcium which is key to egg development. Make these chicken treats.

5. Left Overs.

Not everything we eat is always healthy. However, if you eat a healthy meal around your table and have some left then go ahead and toss it to your chickens. Plus, whatever they won’t eat they’ll grind it around and turn it into a wonderful composts. So almost any fresh vegetables and fruits that you feed your family for good health will give good health to your chickens too.

6. Meal Worms.

Meal worms are a great snack that is packed with protein for your chickens.  They are also a very budget friendly snack considering you can raise them yourself. So if you like the idea of giving your hens healthy treats while not breaking the bank, then you should consider this healthy snack idea. Raise these chicken treats.

7.Watermelon .

Chickens love fruits especially watermelon. I think it is where the fruit is mainly made up of water so it keeps them hydrated with the extreme juiciness of it. But I have always noticed anytime I put a watermelon in their chicken yard, my birds go bananas for it. So keep these fruits in mind at chicken treats when planting your garden.

8. Peep’s Pumpkin Pie .

This is another great recipe by The Chicken Chick. This is a great way to use up any left over pumpkins this fall. Not to mention, your chickens will thank you for it. This pie allows them to get the benefits of pumpkin with a little variation in flavor.

9  Egg Shells .

Egg shells are actually a treat to chickens. The reason is they love the calcium they get from them. Which makes this treat very easy and affordable. So when you crack an egg that your chicken laid, simply grind it up and feed it to them. They will adore the treat for the nutrients that they value so much. Make this chicken treat.

10.Flock Block

This recipe is great and seems to be fairly inexpensive to make. The best part about this block is that it is super healthy for your hens and also appears to be a way to keep them from being bored. So follow the recipe, make your own flock block, and then hang it from your coop somewhere where the chickens can peck at it until their hearts are content.

11. Pumpkin Seed Treat

This pumpkin treat is very simple. You will cut a pumpkin into chunks. Then you’ll need to put the chunks into the food processor. When that is complete and well pureed, then you’ll mix a little of their feed in with it and give the pumpkin seed puree to your birds. Hopefully they’ll be as pleased with it as your budget will be.

12. The Cucumber

Tetherball Do you remember the game tetherball? I really enjoyed that game as a kid. The fun part is, so will your chickens. So instead of just throwing a cucumber to them, make it fun. You’ll need to run a string through the cucumber and hang it up so the chickens can spend hours pecking away at it.

13. Apple Garland

This apple garland idea is really cute and one that your chickens are sure to love. She just slices and cores the apples. Then she strings them with popcorn and runs them as a garland. I can only imagine the fun chickens would have trying to get the food from the garland.

14. Scrambled Eggs

I mentioned scrambled egg pops earlier in this post to help cool your chickens down during a hot day. But if you don’t feel like taking that extra step on a regular day with normal temps, then you don’t have to. Actually, feeding chickens scrambled eggs is one of the best protein sources you can give them during the fall when many chickens are going through molt. So keep this protein packed treat in mind when you are considering healthy chicken treats.

14. Homemade Suet Cakes

Homemade suet cakes are made out of very natural ingredients that are easily accessible. In fact, you probably have most of them on hand.

15. Poultry Protein Platter

This poultry protein platter is another great treat idea for the chicken in molt. It is not difficult and is very healthy for your birds.

16. Ginger

Ginger is considered a super food. It is highly recommended that you feed your chickens ginger because of the benefits that can be passed on to you through their eggs. So if you’d like the benefits of ginger without consuming it yourself, then give it to your chickens. They’ll love it and hopefully you’ll still reap quite a few of the benefits of ginger through your bird.

HOW TO GET THE MOST EGG PRODUCTION FROM YOUR LAYING HENS.

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The gain of all poultry farmers and backyard chicken owners is to get more eggs from their hens. Most flock owners keep hens as either pets, or for their eggs, the latter being the highest priority. Often flock owners ask why their hens are not laying as they expected, not laying often, or stopped laying completely. There are number of things that affect a hen’s ability to lay more eggs or not laying atall, such as her age, genetics and breed make up, feed and nutrition demands, stress and comfort, and daylight hours. In the best egg laying breeds, a hen in her prime productive period will lay around 90%, or near daily, only taking a day "off" now and then. The conditions need to be right for her to be able to do so though. I have discussed the reasons hens do not lay in this article. Now let's look now at what you can do to get the most out of your layers. These are what you should look out for

1. Breeds and Genetics

We have a lot of different chicken breeds, each with their own unique make up of good characteristics. Some are excellent layers, some are better for meat production, some are "dual purpose", others are lawn ornaments that lay the odd egg and are kept mainly as pets or for exhibition purposes. If you wish to start a flock with good egg production as the goal, it's recommended that you carefully research the different breeds' characteristics and egg laying abilities before buying any hens. Once you have an established flock and are permitted to keep a rooster, you may hatch your own eggs and then breed selectively for better egg production. Raising your own replacements will also allow you to breed for the best disease resistance and overall health of your flock. Raising your own may not work for everyone, but if you have the time and space and of course a rooster, you may find it a great option. Remember though that hatches will produce a percentage of roosters, who will need to be rehomed, or processed for the table, if you feel you can or want to do so. Many people, myself included, find it hard to eat our flock members.

A hen’s egg production is at its peak from approximately 6 to 18 months of age, though some breeds start sooner and some may start laying actively later. Somewhere around the age of 18 months to 2 years, most chickens will start molting and lose a lot of feathers, before growing new ones. During this period, which lasts a few weeks, a hen will lay few eggs, if at all. Once she gets back into production she may lay fewer, larger eggs and after each subsequent year, hens will lay fewer and fewer eggs. For this reason commercial egg producing farms and factory farms replace their hens once they have passed their prime egg laying age. Flock owners are generally more laid back and keep their hens for longer periods, some until they pass on from old age, which can be at more than 10 years!
Many homesteaders choose to cull and make stock of their older hens instead. It is a personal choice and either option is good.

In order to produce good quality eggs on a regular basis, layers need a good quality layer feed to give them the necessary nutrients and calories and equally, if not more importantly, access to clean, fresh drinking water all day. Free ranging or pastured hens will find a lot of their nutritional requirements by foraging for food, but they will still need layer feed to keep them in top production. Free ranging hens generally produce a nicer quality egg than cooped up or battery hens, but it is important to make sure they get what they need, in addition to what they find themselves.
Many of us like spoiling our hens a bit with treats such as table scraps and scratch grains. This is fine, if fed in moderation and should at maximum not make up more than 10% of the hen's daily food intake. Too many treats will reduce the nutrients the hens need for body maintenance and egg production and can also make them fat. Fat hens cannot lay well and it is unhealthy for them too.

2. Daylight and egg laying

Chickens naturally lay more eggs during the spring and summer when the days are long. Their instincts tell them that this is the best time to raise their young. You can encourage them to lay eggs year round by setting up a light on a timer in their coop, extending their light hours to around 14 hours daily. Some flock owners feel that hens should get a break over the winter months and lay naturally and when they feel like it.
Some breeds and younger hens, in their prime, are more likely to produce well in climates with cold winters and very short day, so again do research and choose breeds according to your climate and conditions. Make sure you collect eggs several times a day during very cold weather, or they may freeze and crack in the nest boxes.

3. The hens' health

Healthy, happy hens who have what they need and feel comfortable in their environment will reward us with more eggs. Stressed, unhealthy, or parasite laden hens will not and cannot produce eggs at an optimum. If there are things stressing them, like kids or dogs bothering and chasing them, constant changes in the coop, etc, they will feel it's unsafe to produce eggs and raise young, which is why hens lay, for reproduction. Many flock owners found that after a traumatic, or stressful event such as a predator attack, or a move to a new home or coop, their hens will cease production, sometimes for weeks. What hens want is a safe, comfortable, dry area (the coop), with a designated area designed for them to lay eggs in (nest boxes), as well as shelter from adverse weather conditions and possible predators. Make sure the coop is spacious enough for the number of hens you are housing (at least 4 sq feet per hen, more if possible) and that they have adequate space to roam outside. If not allowed to free range, provide at least 12 sq feet of space per hen in the run, more if possible. More is always, always better when it comes to space and chickens. Also make sure you have a nest box for every 3-4 hens, though you may find that they'll pick a "favourite" box to lay in and ignore the others.
Unhealthy or parasite laden hens cannot produce good quality eggs at a regular basis. It is important to do regular checks on your hens, make sure they are treated as a preventive for intestinal worms, mites and lice, etc. Spend a bit of time regularly observing the flock and take note of any usual behaviour, changes in their appearance etc. As you get more familiar with your flock, even small changes will become more noticeable in time and enable you to catch and take care of any illnesses, or issues as early as possible.
If all mentioned in this post is follow and take to practice, your hens will lay more eggs .