Ways to sex baby Chicks if they are Roosters or Hens

  A very common question is my chick is a rooster or a hen and how to sex baby chickenss. In this article, we will discuss some ways you can tell when it comes to sexing chicks!

When it comes to getting chicks, one of the most exciting parts is waiting until your pullets grow up to be layers.

But t’s pretty much a given that at some point in your chicken keeping career, you’re going to wonder about the chicken sex: whether the chicks you picked up at the local farm store are really pullets (which will grow up into hens), OR little roosters in disguise.

We’ve all been there – thinking our chicks will be great layers, only to find out 7 months later, it would take an act of God for them to lay eggs.

There are some ways you can tell if your chick is a rooster or hen and how to sex baby chickenss – they’re not 100% accurate but they’ll help you take a good guess.

Chicken sex: How do I tell whether my chick is a rooster or a hen? There’s a few ways:

1. Check the vent
2. Look at combs & wattles
3. Watch feather growth
4. Look at down color
5. Examine behavior
6. Listen for crowing

1. Check The Vent

Now, before I explain this one, let me state for the record that unless you’ve gone through extensive training to vent sex chickens to tell if your chick is a rooster or a hen, I suggest skipping this step.

Vent sexing involves squeezing out manure (if needed) then checking the vent for male or female “parts,” and it’s the only 100% surefire way to tell if your chick is a rooster or a hen.
However, as you can imagine, this is fairly invasive, and you could possibly permanently harm or kill your chick – so I would leave this method to the experts.
Professionals who sex chicks for a living go to school for years to learn how to do it properly.

Look at Combs & Wattles

While this is definitely not a 100% surefire way for how to tell a rooster from a hen (some roosters are pretty androgynous and some hens like to crow), I’ve found it to be pretty accurate.
The comb of one chick is more pronounced than the other chick. This is a fairly accurate indicator that the chick with the more pronounced comb is likely a rooster.

Another indicator is the wattles.

In young roosters, the wattles grow longer faster, and are redder than pullets. So, if you start to notice your chicken’s wattles when they’re fairly young, it’s possible you got a rooster in your hatch!
Note this only works with breeds that grow regular combs – so pea comb breeds might not exhibit these characteristics at a young age.

Watch Feather Growth

Feather growth is another way you can try for how to sex baby chickens. Female chicks – aka pullets – grow feathers faster than males. Learn more about chicken feathers here.
This only works for about the first 3 days of life – after that, the feather growth on each chick will be about the same.
Pullets in some breeds grow their primary feathers faster, so their secondary feathers will be shorter. Young roosters will have feathers about all the same length.

Feather sexing

This is also sometimes breed specific, so if you don’t notice that some chicks grow feathers faster than others, don’t worry, you still might have pullets!
Once the chicks are older – about 12 – 16 weeks, you’ll also start noticing young roosters develop saddle feathers – which hens won’t have. Here are more tips on caring for chicks from 7-16 weeks old.

Down Color

Some breeds will produce chicks with different color down or different markings based on their sex.
For example, Black Sex Link and Red Sex Link pullets will have different markings than roosters of the same breed. This is a characteristic selected for by breeders so they can tell the sex of the chicken right after it hatches.
In this cross, male chicks will have a white dot on their head while female chicks will be solid black.

Sex link chickens don’t necessarily breed true – so if you cross a black sex link rooster with a black sex link hen, there’s no guarantee the resulting chicks will also be sex linked.
This is, again, breed specific – so it will only work with chicks of certain crosses.

Examine Behavior

Now, this is just drawn from my own personal experience, but I believe you can also start to tell the sex of baby chicks based on behavior.
Naturally, this isn’t universal, and pullets might exhibit some of the behaviors we’ll discuss, but I’ve noticed over the years that roosters will do somethings that pullets naturally wouldn't.
Now let me explain. The stink eye is when you look at a chick, and they look up at you, cock their head to one side, and stare you straight in the eye.

I’ve noticed that it’s typically roosters that are this bold. Pullet chicks tend to not be so aware of their surroundings, or look to other chicks for behavioral guidance and security.
You might also notice some chicks fighting earlier in their lives than others. For example, you might notice them flying up at each other, bumping chests like football players, then going back to their corners.          
In my experience, these are young roosters testing their strength against other roosters.

Listen For Crowing

Something else you might notice is young chicks testing out their lungs. Young roosters will sometimes crow very early in life – as early as 4 weeks in some cases.
While there are hens that’ll crow, it’s not usual, so if you notice your chick trying to make a little baby crow (maybe succeeding, maybe not!), you might just have a young rooster on your hands.
While nothing will ever be 100% certain except vent sexing, hopefully now you no longer wonder how to sex baby chicks.

What to do when introducing new chickens to your flock

  It is joy of all chicken owners oor farmers  when his flock is growing, and adding new chicken is one of the way in  making flock growing
Introducing new chickens to an already established flock can be stressful for both the birds and you. The new flock will need to establish a new pecking order, which can be brutal for everyone involved.

Through much experimentation over the years, we’ve developed a great strategy for new flock initiation. This strategy allows the birds to get used to each other gradually, so there’s less stress.

There are plenty of good ways to go about introducing new chickens to an established flock. But when we’re introducing chicks to the flock (or pullets) this is the method that works for us every time.

Introducing New Chickens to the Flock
Step One: 

Quarantine

All new flock members must be quarantined before being added to an established flock.

Quarantine is done to ensure that the new flock members aren’t bringing in diseases or pests to your flock. They’ll need to be examined daily to look for signs of mites and lice, as well as common poultry diseases. Quarantine should last for at least a week.

To quarantine new chickens, keep them in an isolated area where they aren’t sharing space with the existing flock. A dog cage inside the house or garage will work well. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly in between handling new birds and the rest of the flock.
After the quarantine period is up and you’re absolutely sure your new flock members aren’t introducing any diseases or pests, you can begin introducing new chickens to the rest of the flock.

Step Two: Cage Inside of Coop

Place the new birds in a large animal cage inside the coop. If you don’t have a cage, fence off a corner of the coop for the new birds, making sure they’re protected on all sides.
Placing the cage in a corner is a good idea, so only two walls of the cage are exposed to the rest of the flock.

The existing flock members will come to investigate the new additions, but won’t be able to get too close. This will allow everyone to adjust to each other gradually.
Keep the new flock members inside the cage for the first 3-7 days. If it seems everyone is getting along well after three days, move onto step three. If there is still a lot of pecking going on through the cage, keep them in there for a few more days.

Step Three:
Free-Range Time
When step two is complete and the birds are all comfortable with each others presence, it’s time to let them free range together.

Let the old birds and the new birds out to free-range together for at least a few hours a day. This will give them time to interact with each other, and space to get some privacy if they need it. If you don’t free range your flock, let the new chickens out of their cage and into the run for a few hours a day.

If the new birds don’t rush out of the cage the first time you open it, give them time. They may be frightened of the newfound space, but they will come out when they’re ready.

When the birds aren’t free-ranging together, keep the new flock members in the cage, including at night.

Continue letting the flock free-range together for a week or so. Timing is different for everyone, so when all seems well, move onto step four.

Step Four: Cage Door Open

After a week of free-ranging together, open the door to the cage and leave it open. The new flock members can come and go from the cage as they please. It will still be a safe place for them to go when they need, and they’ll likely still sleep there at night. The entire flock can now mingle together whenever they please. Continue letting them out to free range together.

Don’t be alarmed if your new chickens still get pecked at once in awhile. This is totally natural and necessary as the flock adjusts.

Remember that chickens aren’t the same as people, and their social order works in a different way. This method is meant to make this transition easier for everyone, but there will still be some adjustment before the birds are all comfortable with each other.

Add a second roost in the coop if necessary. The new birds may get pecked when they start trying to roost. Give some extra room so everyone can roost comfortably.
Provide places for new flock members to get some privacy. Placing roosting bars high up in the run can allow a safe place. Another option is to leave covered spaces inside the coop for birds to retreat to if they’re getting picked on.
Keep an eye on the new birds and look for signs that they’re getting pecked too much. Missing feathers, wounds, or bleeding are a bad sign and those birds will need a little extra time and TLC to get established.
If you’re introducing chicks to a flock of adult birds, wait until they’re at least six weeks old, but eight weeks is better. The chicks can get killed by the bigger birds if they aren’t big enough to defend themselves.
If these above steps were taking you will have a save and diesease free flocks.



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Common and worst mistakes you should avoid as a poultry farmer

These are common and worst mistakes chicken keepers makes

1. When you kept your chicken in a unsecured coop:   A sturdy predator proof coop is absolutely essential for backyard chicken flocks. When predator proofing a coop you have to look up, down and right in front of you. Can a predator come down from above to get into the run? Are the ventilation holes big enough for anything to fit in? Are there spaces anywhere that a predator can fit through? Are there gaps below or above the door? Are the door latches easy enough for an animal to work? Can a predator dig underneath to get into the coop or run? Can the run wire be pried loose easily?   Many urban chicken keepers don't worry about predator proofing much because they never see predators in their neighborhoods or they think the types of wild animals in the suburbs aren't truly predators. It's important to note that raccoons can open door latches, snakes will kill chickens even though they're too big for them to eat, squirrels will eat eggs and even chicks if they get hungry enough and stray dogs will chase chickens down tossing them about like toys until the chicken dies or escapes.

2. Not locking the chickens up before dark:  Many predators are active around dusk. The waning light gives them a bit of protection from sight while there's still enough light to see what they're doing. It's an especially vulnerable time for the chickens to be outside. Many predators can see just fine at night and chickens have notoriously poor eyesight in the dark. This definitely tips the scale in favor of the nocturnal predator! By getting the chickens into the coop and shutting the door before dusk, you can prevent sneak attacks from waiting predators.

3. Not counting your chickens at lock up:  I have a kid that was notorious for this! Sometimes chickens don't go into their coop at bedtime. If they are left outside overnight they have 8+ hours of time with any predator that may be in the area. Sometimes a chicken may be in a safe spot and be ok through the night, other times they got distracted and just decided to roost on the first close spot when night fell. Or the kid may have shut the door before the last chicken wandered in for the night and now she's stuck outside sitting on the ground outside the coop all night.  The safest place for the chickens to be overnight is in their coop, so a nightly count is essential. We are now in the habit of doing a count each night and if all the chickens aren't in the coop, we grab a flashlight and go hunting for them.  

4. Water hazards near the chicken coop:   I wrote Chickens Can't Swim, Backyard Water Safety about chickens getting themselves into small ponds, buckets of water, kiddie pools and other wet situations. Once thoroughly wet a chickens feathers become heavy and they cannot keep themselves afloat. In the case of tall buckets they may lean in to drink and fall in upside down without enough space to right themselves. It's best to keep chickens away from all deep containers of water to prevent drowning.

5. Keeping the chickens area free from small debris:  Hardware disease sounds like something that is made up but it's a very real affliction for farm animals. Chickens will eat almost anything including metal pieces like small screws, metal washers, staples, small pieces of wire, metal shavings...ya know, pretty much anything they may possibly find.  The first problem is that when these sharp objects make their way through the chicken they can puncture the crop, stomach, intestines etc. The second problem is that they start to rust and breakdown which leeches dangerous metals into the chicken poisoning them. It's not a true chicken 'disease' but it is an affliction that can kill them.  Related reading: How to prevent Hardware Disease.

6. Rat poisons, pesticides and herbicides used near the coop:  If you must use rodent, insect and weed prevention methods it's best to use non chemical methods near chickens. Mice can die from the poison and then be eaten by the chickens. Chemical bait that the insect takes back to the nest can be dropped or spilled by the critter then be eaten by your chickens. Plants treated with an herbicide can also be eaten by chickens. Try to use non chemical methods whenever possible to keep your chickens safe. When dealing with a mouse problem I put down snap traps nightly and pick them up in the morning before letting the chickens out. I also like this Magic Mouse Box trap from my Stoney Acres. I've had good results with dusting diatomaceous earth on ant hills. There are lots of non chemical ways to remove weeds like vinegar, salts, boiling water and just plain pulling them.  If you must spray your lawn, keep the chickens confined for several days to allow the chemicals to dissipate before allowing them out. 

7. Mixing chicken sizes in one coop:  Trying to just toss chickens of various ages and sizes together is a recipe for disaster! When introducing chickens to each other you need to integrate them slowly to keep squabbles to a minimum. Size and temperment should also be considered. Standard size chickens can be housed with bantam size chickens safely, but a standard sized rooster can hurt a bantam hen if he attempts to mate her. Keep this in mind when choosing your flock. 

Also be very careful of keeping ducks and chickens together. Male ducks (drakes) may attempt to mate a chicken hen and it will eventually kill her. If follow these steps , the mistakes can be avoided.

Raising Turkey at your backyard for meat and for business

Turkey is relatively lean and nutritious. While often the meat of choice on Thanksgiving and Christmas, turkey is a versatile meat that can be eaten any time . Many people are starting to raise their own turkeys. While raising turkeys does not require a lot of time each day, turkeys do require daily care.

Before you can starti a flock of turkeys, it is important to identify your goal. This will dictate the best breed and management system for your flock. Are you raising turkeys for your own consumption or for sale? Once you have determined your goals, you need to pick the type of turkey and housing. The types of turkeys often referred to as "breeds" are actually varieties of a single breed of turkey. The most common variety grown commercially is the Large White, but there are many other breeds of turkeys to choose from. Hens commonly reach a live weight of 15 lb. at 14 weeks of age, and toms (males) weigh about 28 to 30 lb. at 17 to 18 weeks. Smaller weights can be achieved by raising the turkeys for a shorter period of time.

Brooding and Temperature

Turkey poults (young turkeys one day old and older) are more difficult to get started than chicks. Poults need to be raised in a warm, draft-free environment because they are unable to regulate their body temperature for the first 10 days of life. In the brooding area the temperature should be started at 100°F, measured two inches above the floor (that is, at the level of the poult). Reduce the temperature 5°F each week.
A red infrared heat lamp is best to supply the heat needed. The bulb should be suspended at least 18 in. above the floor. The height of the bulb can be adjusted as the temperature needs to change.

Litter

Wood shavings are the best litter for turkeys. Do not use sawdust because poults may eat it and have digestive problems. The purpose of the litter is to absorb moisture and insulate poults from the cold floor. Any wet litter should be removed and replaced with fresh litter. Do not use newspapers or other slick materials on top of the litter. The paper will become slippery and can cause leg problems.

Brooder Guards

A brooder guard should be used during the first week or two. The brooder guards keep the poults near heat, feed, and water. A typical brooder guard is 18" tall. Poults startle easily, causing them to crowd on top of each other. Rounding all the corners of the brooding area with a brooder guard reduces the likelihood of a corner pileup.

Feed and Water

Feed and water should be available to the growing turkeys at all times. Some young turkeys have trouble finding the feed and water, resulting in death from "starve out." To ensure that your poults find the feed and water, it is best to spend some time with them for the first day or so. Dipping their beaks in the water helps to teach them where the water is located. Use a small one-gallon chick waterer. Open dishes or pans are not recommended because poults may fall in, get chilled, and die. Bright-colored marbles may help to attract the poults to the water. The bottom half of on egg carton makes a good starting feeder for the first few days. Adequate feeder and waterer space ensures that all the poults in the flock have an opportunity to eat and drink.

Commercial varieties of turkeys are fast-growing. They require a high-protein diet. Turkey starter diets typically contain 28% protein in crumble form. It is generally recommended that you use turkey starter diets for the first four weeks. A turkey grower diet typically has 26% protein. Note that chicken starter and grower diets are too low in protein, and turkeys fed these diets will have reduced growth performance.

As the turkeys grow, they get taller and their necks get longer. The height of the feeders should be adjusted to match the birds' growth. The edge of the feeder trough should be at the level of a turkey's back. This will keep the feed and water clean after the first week. It is important to not fill the feeders too full, or feed will be wasted.

Processing

A small number of turkeys can be raised in a relatively small area, but you need to adhere to the local zoning laws and ordinances in order to raise, process, and sell turkeys. Whether the turkeys are for home consumption or for sale, you must make plans for processing, whether that is through home processing or custom processing.
Turkey are lovely birds, they can be raise for meat , business and also as a pet.
Are you ready to get your turkey chica today ?.

Goat farming and their breeds

Having other livestock animals to your poultry farm will be a fun and profitable venture. And this article will do justice on goat breed which you can add to your flock.

There are different breeds and types of goats, and they are bred for different purposes. Some are bred specifically for meat while others are used mainly for milk production. Others are used mainly as show goats or to enter into fairs and contests.
The Pygmy goat, Cashmere goat, Mountain goat, Dairy goat and Boer goats are some of the most well-known types and breeds.
We will discuss each of them below and provide information on each, specifically what they generally used for, information about their appearance, personality and temperament.

1. Pygmy Goats are mostly utilized as show and pet goats. People often show them off at fairs and enter them into contests. These goats provide really good companionship, and they may make really good pets especially for kids. They are playful, cuddly and easy to take care of. They are not as big dairy goats, but they are of decent size. They do produce some milk, though not in huge quantities. These goats can also be used for meat. However, meat and milk production are not typically their primary uses.

2. Dairy goats are bred and raised ways to produce milk. They also make nice companions and can be used as show goats. There are different types of dairy goats, they include Saanens, Nubians, Togenburgs, Le Manchas, Oberhaslis and Alpines.
The Saanens are typically white in color and produce a lot of milk. The Nubian dairy goats’ milk generally has a lot of protein and butterfat. Togenburgs are another type of dairy goat. These are used by many dairies because they produce a lot of milk which is of high quality. Le Manchas are another type of Dairy goat that is known for their small ears. Oberhaslis are small to medium-sized. You can find a lot of them on dairies farms as well. Alpines dairy goats produce a lot of milk and are fairly large in size. Saanens Cashmere Goats Cashmere goats are not actually a breed. They are a type of goat. People use the hair of cashmere-producing goats as clothing because it is extremely soft and luxurious. These types of goats can also produce milk and can be used for meat and so they have many great uses. A quick note: The coat of most goats can be used for cashmere.

3. Mountain Goats, Mountain goats are white and sometimes yellow depending on the season. They have long thick hair in the winter which they shed some in the summer.  

4.  Boer Goats, Boer Goats are from South Africa. This is where they were originally developed and bred. They are light in appearance and have a red head. Boer goats are very costly and can be priced anywhere between $10,000 and $50,000. Right now, the demand for them is very high and they are extremely popular among goat owners. Boer Goat The Boer goat was developed and bred in the early 1900s for meat. This breed grows very fast, is able to live in different environments and is very fertile. All of these attributes make them very attractive to those who already own goats or who are interesting in purchasing them. The meat Boer goats produce is red, of distinct quality and very lean.  
You can pick any of the listed above to start your goat farming.

How to maintain good healthy poultry birds

Good looking and healthy birds is the joy of all poultry farmers and the best option to be a successful poultry farmer is to have healthy birds.
Here are the list of the amazing things garlic and apple cider vinegar can do to  prevent sickness in your flock.

Garlic Is an Antibacterial Antiviral  Infection preventer Worm preventative, and a treatment 
And an egg laying stimulant Apple Cider Vinegar Is an amazing source of probiotics, a great energy booster , Helpful to their digestion and also an immune system booster , It increases the calcium & other mineral absorption (Meaning they digest minerals better, getting more out of them) And it helps with respiratory problems So what are you waiting for!

This will help your chickens health. And they LOVE it. :-) It may take them a little getting used to it,  but then garlic and apple cider vinegar are a fun treat for them!  Do you know that garlic and apple cider is one of the best homemade food you can give your chicken so as to make them healthy and productive.
Try this two and see the the wonder.

FOWL POX DISEASE, PREVENTION, DETECTION AND TREATMENT IN POULTRY BIRDS

One of the diseases that is a highly infectious poultry disease affecting the skin of chickens and turkeys. Chickens and other fowl are affected with pox but not the same type of virus. The disease is transmitted by direct contact with affected birds, infected quarters, shipping crates, and other inanimate objects.

Fowl pox may also be spread by mosquitoes. The rapidity of its spread and virulence in a flock varies considerably with different flocks. In acute cases, the disease may spread through the flock in two or three weeks, while in the chronic form it may take several months. Fowl pox is much more common and serious with chickens than turkeys.

Fowl pox is a poultry disease caused by a virus. This viral disease affects the skin of chickens and turkeys, especially areas that have no feathers.

Signs of Fowl Pox

Small blister-like growths of a yellowish color appear on the comb, wattles or skin of the head. Later these sores become crusty and dry and are covered with dark brown scabs.
There is inactivity, sneezing and coughing.
The eyes are watery and, as the disease progresses, the eyelids may become stuck together or very much enlarged.
The sinuses become infected, causing the face to swell.
Diarrhea is frequently present.
Nasal discharge.
The bird has no inclination, or cannot see, to eat.
Death is frequently caused by a stoppage of the windpipe due to the inflammation and mucus which collects there. The lesions that are formed in the throat can develop to the extent of blocking the throat and it could eventually lead to death as a result of suffocation.
The disease may appear in three forms. Cankers may be present on the inside linings of the mouth without any pox sores on the head, or the sores may come on the head without the cankers on the inside, or both may be present. It starts developing in any break found in the skin of the host.

How to Prevent fowl pox disease

As soon as an outbreak of the disease is noticed all affected birds should be isolated and the remaining birds vaccinated. Preventive vaccination is advisable in regions where the disease commonly occurs. This may be accomplished by vaccinating all the young birds each year with fowl pox vaccine following an outbreak which has made the old birds immune.

If there has been no previous outbreak in the flock both young and old stock must be vaccinated the first year. The best time to vaccinate young birds is when they are 6 to 10 weeks of age. Unless all the young birds are vaccinated at the same time strict segregation of the vaccinated birds should be maintained until all the birds have been handled. Only strong healthy birds should be vaccinated.

Heavy mortality may result where birds are weakened by disease or infestations of parasites. Old birds vaccinated with fowl pox vaccine should be out of production; otherwise, the mortality may be high.

The mechanical carriers of fowl pox are mosquitoes. So it is advisable to reduce the mosquitoes around your farm or environment. Ordinary sanitation and management practices will not avert this disease, so vaccination is often the solution. It is recommended to vaccinate chickens and turkeys such as breeders, egg layers, and those that are highly susceptible to fowl pox. Live fowl pox vaccine is administered in the wing web of birds within age 6 and 10 weeks. If aggressive pecking is controlled among birds, skin damage which fowl pox causes is reduced.

How to Administer Fowl Pox Vaccine

Fowl Pox vaccine produces immunity for life, but, used on laying birds, is quite likely to throw them out of production and cause some deaths. Pigeon-pox vaccine causes a mild reaction which does not affect egg production but produces only a temporary immunity (about six months).

Fowl pox vaccine consists of powdered fowl pox scabs mixed with distilled water. The scabs are secured from cockerels that have been inoculated on the comb with fowl pox virus. The scabs which are formed over the inoculated area are removed, dried and ground. The scab material is added to the liquid just before vaccinating, for once mixed it loses its potency rapidly if not kept in a cool place. Direct exposure to the sun is particularly harmful. The dry powdered scabs will keep for months without deterioration if kept in a cool place.

Fowl pox vaccine is applied using two sewing machine needles are fastened ¼ of an inch apart in a small handle about 3 inches long. The vaccination is made by dipping the needles in the vaccine and then puncturing the wing web. This breaks the skin and introduces the vaccine. Care should be taken to find a place free of feathers. Also, the large blood vessel should be avoided.

How to treat fowl pox disease

Since this is a viral disease, there is no exact drug. However, you should remove the necrotic membrane from affected chickens’ mouth and larynx. Remove the brown scabs on the head and apply iodine solution on the area. You can stimulate appetite with wet feed (mash) and add antibiotics and multivitamins to their drinking water. As long as a diseased bird is eating and drinking, it will recover from the disease in about 2 to 3 weeks or more with low mortality rate. When a bird recovers successfully from fowl pox, it is immune to the disease permanently,  all.these above will help you to deal with Fowl Pox.