WHAT MAKES A MARRIAGE , A MARRIAGE GOES BEYOND BRIDE PRICE

Some men think the fact that they can pay bride price, means they are ready for marriage, this is a big lie.
Some believe that as far as they have their house, car and job, they are ready for marriage, which is another big lie. Marriage goes beyond all this.
Marriage is a ministry and you need the Grace of God to succeed. You don't go into marriage based on how much you have in your bank account or the house and the cars you have. Your marriage is supposed to be a place that heals your spouse and not one that inflicts more pain or sends them to the past. It is supposed to be the arms that mend and not the one that damages.
The fact that you can pay for something does not mean you can afford it. Affording comes with maintenance and responsibilities. You can pay for bride price but the real question is, can you afford to keep your woman in love with you till the end of time?
You have a big and nice house, can you and your spouse live in that house in peace and continue to love each other until the end of time? It is not about having the latest or most expensive car, it’s about riding happily and laughing together as you journey.
Marriage is not about impregnating her, but being a good example to the child you bring into this world, by first respecting the woman you call your wife, loving and caring for her, cherishing and appreciating her before diapers and wipes.
Young woman, marriage is not about how beautiful you are or how good you are in bed, but how you talk to your man, respect him, make him feel like a king, how you turn that house into a palace for him, how you praise and honour him.
The most handsome crown a man wants to wear is the woman who respects him and knows how to talk to him, who makes time to pray for him, who encourages him.
The most beautiful clothes that can dress up a wife are the arms of the husband she loves, which make her feel like a queen. Arms to which she is the sole proprietor, arms that are comforting, assuring and forgiving. Yet are strong, protect her and won't leave her.
Young man, dating her does not end when you get married to her. You start losing her when you stop doing that in the marriage. You never stop dating your wife, you make time and take her out occasionally, make time to walk and talk with her. Let her always look forward to seeing you. Don't replace that time with job or friends because you are married to her and she is your wife. Wife goes beyond the home.
Young woman, flirting does not stop when you are married to him else you are teaching him to look for that in a single woman elsewhere. You can't keep a mistress and girlfriend in your marriage. Marriage is very honourable. You are the mistress, the girlfriend and same as a wife. You flirt with your husband.
Marriage goes beyond what you see, you never stop what he saw in you which made him pursue you, you don't stop what you did for her to fall for you. You need the grace of God and His wisdom to keep your marriage. So never stop seeking Him when you are married. Marriage is work, the more you work, the more enjoyable it becomes.
In conclusion "And look out for one another's interests, not just for your own.

HOW TO RAISE CHICKENS DURING WINTERS AND COLD WEATHER

These are Tips and Tricks you can use when raising chicken in cold weather
We often asked how to raise chickens in winter or cold season when the temperature  drop and the snow starts to fall, The truth is that raising chickens in the winter is very easy, they only need a few accommodations to be healthy and happy in the cold winter months.

We learned that chickens natural physiology combined with several strategies on our part are all it takes to keep our chickens happy and healthy through the bitter cold winter.

These are five steps to safely and inexpensively to keep your birds warm during cold weather.

1. Make aure you get the right chickens for your climate

The very best thing you can do to ensure your birds will be fine in winter is to start off with cold hardy chicken breeds. Cold hardy breeds have very small combs and wattles, making them less susceptible to frostbite. They also tend to be built a little on the hefty side, which keeps them warmer when the temperature drops.

The best cold-hardy chicken breeds:
Ameraucana
Australorp
Brahma
Buff Orpington
Cochin
Delaware
Dominique
New Hampshire
Plymouth Rock
Rhode Island Red
Speckled Sussex
Wyandottes
Many of these Chickens are foreign and they are common in particular country and states.

2. Insulate the coop

It’s so important to insulate the chicken coop as best you can before winter sets in. You can do this in many ways. If you have the money, you can use foam or fiberglass insulation in the walls of the coop then cover them with plywood. Just make absolutely sure the insulation is completely covered, because chickens will pick it at. Always remember that insulation doesn’t mean make the coop air-tight. Every coop needs proper ventilation, for polluted air and moisture to escape and fresh air to get in.

3. Close off a portion of the coop

The coop interior gets warm on cold winter nights from the chickens body heat releasing into the air. If the amount of space inside the coop is smaller, there’s less airspace for the chickens bodies to warm up. If your chicken coop is on the larger side, it will pay to make the usable space a little smaller in the winter.

This can be done by hanging plastic sheeting from floor to ceiling, or putting up a temporary wall.

4. Provide quality feed and water

Chickens eat more feed in the winter to regulate their body temperature and put on some insulating fat. Make sure that the feed your chickens are getting is quality feed and give them a bit extra this time of year. We also like to toss chicken scratch on the floor of the coop to give the birds something to keep them busy and add a little winter fat to help keep them warm. Feed your chickens a little extra when it starts to get cold, and more importantly, provide them with fresh water at all times.

Drinking water helps with digestion, which helps with temperature regulation. If your chicken’s water source is frozen for even an hour during the day it will affect their ability to stay warm. If you can’t check on the founts several times a day, consider using a heated water bowl or a Water Heater Base for your fount in the winter.

5. Provide quality roosts

Roosting helps keep chickens warm by getting them up off the floor and allowing them to huddle together to keep warm. Roosts need to be big enough to accommodate all of your chickens, if you see chickens on the floors or nesting boxes at night, more roosts are in order.

The roost surface should be big enough so that a chicken can completely cover their feet while sitting on it. If the chickens can’t wrap their toes all the way around the roost, they are likely to get frostbite on toes that they can’t cover.

These tips will help in raising your chicken in winter or cold weather.

TREATMENT ÀND PREVENTION OF CHICKEN LICES

Lice is a common disease in poultry farming. This article will explain the best methods for how to treat chicken lice for beginners. This is my firsthand experience. For starters, poultry or "chicken lice" are specialist parasites and evolve to be very good at feeding on their specific host species—but aren't able to live on other species. So chicken lice can't live on people, and the lice that kids commonly get in grade school can't be shared with their beloved chickens.

Lice are common on many animals, and domesticated poultry have around 50 species of lice. They are all soft-bodied, pale-colored, flattened-bodied insects. These tiny soft-bodied insects have mouthparts used specifically to chew on feathers and scales on the host birds' skin. Severe infestations can make a hen stop laying and even stunt growth in immature birds. If this happens to your flocks, it's crucial to understand how to treat chicken lice and set up preventative methods for a healthier future for your flock.

Handle your birds often or at least on a weekly basis to check for pests, injury and missing feathers. When watching your flock look for strange behaviors that are indicators of poultry health.

Behavioral Indicators of Lice Infestation:

Sitting, resting or lying down more often than usual
Social isolation of a smaller group from a larger flock
Repetitive head shaking
Extended periods of dust bathing
Excessive preening
More small feathers in the pen or coop than usual
Oddly folded wings or a scruffy look
Itching with one foot—much like a dog
Decreased diet
Slowed growth in immature birds with more than one of the above behaviors
Less laying in hens with more than one of the above behaviors
Multiple chick deaths naturally hatched by broody hens
It all started when I was walking down the dirt road I live on heading to give a neighbor a rooster. She had pecking order issues in her coop and I thought it may help. Tucked under my arm was Boss Fluff, the biggest silkie rooster you ever laid your eyes on. He clucked with excitement as we strolled along.

Having very recently moved I hadn't spent much quality time observing or handling my birds. We stopped our leisurely walk briefly when another neighbor commented from their yard on the hilarity of us walking our chicken and chihuahua down the road. The rooster flinched twice to shake his head while we talked.

Instinctively, I observed him doing this to see if I could figure out why he was fidgeting. I hang out with chickens a lot and found this to be a little odd. I noticed a tiny insect crawl near his eye. Silkies have dark blue skin making the reddish-orange insect easy to see. I was most of the way to my chicken friend's house and continued walking seeing as she was expecting us. I didn't go near her coop upon reaching the property but instead stopped to inspect my bird by parting the feathers.

After finding several lice in a small area, I told her the issue and showed her what they look like chicken was so infested that the lice were already at all life stages. There were full grown lice, nits, and eggs. He was literally crawling with them. This was my first experience with chicken lice, but not my first time hearing about it or seeing lice on humans.
Lices can make chicken not to grow well, so you must look out for lices in your chicken and make sure you do the needful immediately tot help.the chicken.

TOP PREDATORS THAT CAN KILL BACKYARD CHICKEN AND TURKEY

  As backyard chickens owner, there are some predators you must know and guard against .
These are lists of some basic threat potential predators to chickens, depending on where you lives, your fencing, your coops, etc. Furthermore this isn’t a discussion about us overtaking natural areas for these animals; yes it happens, yes it is sad .
For now I want you to be aware of the present potential dangers, how to identify them and also ways to prevent them.

1. DOG

Your dog or neighborhood dogs can be chicken predators and pose a real threat to your flock. But even more…your own pooch. If you aren’t sure how your dog is going to react to your chickens (yes even little toy breeds), you need to put up a barrier between the two for awhile. A big dog that is able to get into your yard, and not your own dog, will probably carry kill your chicken.

2. CATS

Those sweet little kitties are related to BIG cats and they are predators. And not just feral cats folks; your neighbor’s sweet little kitty could be a potential threat to the life of your chickens. Most domestic cats aren’t big enough to carry off a full sized chicken so they’ll do their best to get to the larger/meatier parts of the chicken and leave the rest.

3. RACCOONS

Raccoons are one of the chicken predators I hear the most about; though not really an issue here in Phoenix. Many urban and suburban areas have raccoons in their backyards often. Raccoons are cute but they can also be pretty vicious. They’ll pull a chicken’s head clean off, right through your wire! They’ll carry off chicks and smaller birds if given the chance but most of the time you’re going to find a headless bird. It is very sad.

4. SNAKES

One of chicken worst predators is snakes, Snakes as chicken predators are generally not going to be able to kill and eat a full sized hen or rooster. But they will eat chicks, young birds and they love eggs. They also love heat lamps… I have heard some disturbing stories about poultry farmers finding snakes curled up in a nest box, full of an egg or two. After hearing that story I refused to pull eggs before the sun comes up.

5.  HAWKS & OWLS

These big birds are a real and present danger to your backyard chickens. Hawks are generally daytime hunters while owls hunt at night. Most of the time an owl isn’t going to do much to your birds because by the time they are hunting your chickens should be cooped for the night; but occasionally they get them. Hawks, however, are a much more common threat. They are fast, strong and can pick up a smaller breed or younger bird; though I have heard stories of full sized hens getting attacked and eaten.

6. RATS

Did you know that rats could be more of than a disgusting annoyance? Rats are omnivores and they like chicken coops. Not only will they steal any feed you make available (which is why I have had a Grandpa Feeder for years); but they have been known to eat eggs and chicks as well. I have never heard of a rat eating pullets or adult birds but given the opportunity I’m sure they’d love to. Take precautions to prevent rodents in your coop period – they’re just nasty.

My advice, First let me say all free-ranging chickens are potential victims, but if you know these predators , you will know what to do to protect your chickens from been killed .
The main reason of this article is to alert you and let you know these predators so as to prevents them from the damages they can do for your backyard chicken and turkey.

COMMON PROBLEMS IN RAISING CHICKEN CHICKS

When preparing to bring in new chicken chicks,  there are some things you need to know, there are some common problems in chicks you need to put in consideration.

  Chick season is upon us and just about everyone I know has hatched or bought new chicks for their flocks! By now your baby chicks are running around their brooder happily doing their cute little chick things. Whether you decide to buy or hatch your chicks, nothing can make the fun come to a halt faster than a sick chick can. I have spent more than my fair share of time worrying about the little feather balls, so I know how worried you must be!

It can be pretty upsetting when you don't know what's wrong with your chick. Luckily there aren't too many illnesses chicks can get so it's usually pretty easy to figure out what's wrong with your chicks

First of all relax, most chick issues are not your fault! Many are caused by genetics or nutritional deficiencies in the breeding stock.

The first thing you need to do when you notice a sick chick is to make sure they have everything they need in their brooder (Special house). You'll want to make sure chicks are not too hot or too cold. If your chicks are a week old the brooder temperature should be around 95° at chick level, right under their heat source. You'll want to decrease this temperature by 5° a week as they grow.

Make sure their water is clean and not contaminated with food, bedding or chick poo. Make sure the food is dry and free from chick droppings also.
Common Chick Illnesses
Pasty butt: when diarrhea like poop clogs up the chicks vent and prevents her from pooping its called pasty butt. This can be fatal. Clean the chicks butt off under warm water. Do not pick off the dry poop clump as you will definitely pull out the feathers and might cause her delicate bum skin to tear. Soak it off gently. Dry, then apply olive oil to vent and bum to prevent poop from smelling.

Check that the brooder is an appropriate temperature. You should add probiotics to the chicks feed or give small amounts of plain yogurt with active cultures. Keep watch the next few days as it often takes a few days to go away.

Coccidiosis: a parasitic infection of the digestive tract. Contagious. Can be fatal. Often indicated by reddish or bloody poop. Many people give medicated chick starter to avoid this problem. If you choose to not feed medicated feed (I don't) add a little ACV to the chicks water to help prevent coccidiosis.

If you suspect your chick has coccidiosis separate the affected chicks into a different brooder. Give chicks plain yogurt with active cultures along with their chick feed and ACV in their water.

Shipping stress:You can add Sav-A-Chick to the chicks water when you first get them to give them an electrolyte and vitamin boost. Or add a little sugar or molasses to their water when you first get the chicks to give them a little calorie boost.

Make sure they're warm and comfortable and don't handle them much in the first few days till they get used to their new home and environment.

Make sure you get the right feed for your chicks, they right feed for chicks from day old to 4 or 6 weeks is Starters feed.

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FREE RANGE CHICKEN FARMING

There are many type  in which we can raise chicken , free range type is one of them ,will be discuss free range on this article.

Free-range chickens are birds that are provided regular access to the outdoor and moving freely with an abundance of sunshine, fresh vegetation, and room to maneuver. Moreover, these chickens are not fed with any chemicals (antibiotics or unnecessary medicines) of any sort. Federal ordinances forbid the use of hormones in raising pork and poultry.

The animal’s organic forage cannot contain animal by-products, antibiotics or genetically engineered cereals. Also, the food must not be grown using tenacious pesticides or chemical fertilizers. It solely means that the chickens are permitted to wander freely and devour food that is native to their diet.
Farming of such chickens is known as free-range chicken farming. Young chickens experience fresh pasture and are not bound in any way. The eggs produced by free range chickens have a much greater nutritional content than the eggs bought from stores. Free-range eggs carry double the amount of Vitamin E and six times the amount of vitamin A.
They also contain limited saturated fat and four times the omega-3 fatty acids. The cholesterol content is half as much as eggs laid by hens raised in factories and shelters. If you consume the meat of free-range chickens, it considered much more nutritious than the meat of factory raised chickens There are several reasons why people opt for free range chicken farming these days.

Some of the reason are listed Bellow.

1.Endless supply of high-quality food Free range chickens give you an unlimited quantity of high-grade food. Since these chickens are raised in a natural environment and not fed unwanted chemicals, the eggs laid by them are rich in nutrition, and their meat is also very healthy.

2. Less space requirement Since these chickens wander in the open during most of the day, they do not require large spaces for living. An individual living in an apartment can also purchase a portable chicken coop and raise free-range chickens. All you need to do is take them out in the open for food, water, and the sunshine.

3. Low maintenance cost Free-range chickens depend on natural vegetation for food and hence their maintenance cost is low. No chemicals or chicken food is required to raise them, resulting in limited spending.

4. Reduced chance of diseases Since the chickens are not caged together or held in a coop, there are minimal chances of them getting a contagious disease.

Helpful tips for free range chicken farming

If you are planning to take the free range chicken farming route, here are some helpful tips for you:

1. Buy high-quality chickens from a certified dealer The first and the most important step in free-range poultry farming is purchasing chickens from a certified dealer. Carefully examine the breed you want to raise and ensure that it is free of any disease.

2 . Take excellent care of the chickens until they mature Keep the chicks inside a brooder till they have reached a growth period where they are ready to be brought out into the open.

3 . Build a protective fence around their roaming area Design a fenced area where the chickens may wander freely. Ensure that you keep it reasonably high to prevent the entrance of domestic hunters like cats. It does not have to be big space, but make sure that it is sufficient for the numbers of chicks that you are raising.

4. Built a coop on the fenced area Remember to build a coop in the fenced-in area for basic shelter for the chickens. During the rainy climate, the chickens may be forced to house themselves to stay warm. Also, always keep some feed in the coop even if the birds are being motivated to gather food on their own.

5. Keep them safe from domestic predators Assess the area thoroughly before your chickens set out on their journey out in the open. Ensure that the area is free from native predators like cats and dogs. Free range chicken are of great good to you, they provide your healthy meet and eggs, they can also be sources of income if you can manage it well.

HOW TO KEEP CHICKEN BABY CHICKS HEALTHY NATURALLY

Raising baby chicks and growing your own eggs (among other foods) is a great way to know where your food is coming from .
But Many people are reluctant to get started because they’re worried about how to go about it. First, whatever you do as a thoughtful, caring person will be infinitely better than what happens to a battery hen. Secondly, if you want to raise baby chicks naturally I have put together a guide for you.
These guides will help you to be more confident when you get started with your first chicks.

1.  Where to get chicks

. There are a number of places you can find chicks but the local farm store is probably the most easy and most popular place. Other choices are a local homesteader, a breeder (online or locally) or from a friend.   Read this post to learn more about where to get your chicks and the pros and cons of each method.

2Should I get my chicks vaccinated?

There are two main vaccines for chicks, Marek’s and Coccidiosis. The Hatching House vaccinates for Marek’s disease but not Coccidiosis. If you want them not to vaccinate for Marek’s you can request that. For my small backyard flock I don’t think either vaccine is always necessary. You can always check your local agricultural extension office for the scoop on how prevalant Marek’s disease is in your area. I allowed the Marek’s vaccine however, since I didn’t have time to figure out if it was a problem here. The Coccidiosis vaccine is one I don’t believe I’ll ever get for my chicks. it is a live vaccine (not weakened) and may actually cause illness. Again, for a small backyard flock I don’t believe this is necessary when keeping the brooder and coop clean and dry works as excellent prevention. Also, you can prevent cocci with medicated feed if you want (I don’t). If you do get a cocci vaccinated chick, don’t feed them medicated feed because it can nullify the vaccine (more on that in the feed section).

4 When to buy chicks ?

If you’ve decided to try raising baby chicks you may be wondering when you should jump in. When you choose to order or pick up your chicks is up to you. Warm period is perfect time to raise chicks. I have always waited until around may to get my chicks because it’s warmer out and I don’t like to keep the chicks inside any longer than necessary.  In a warmer climate you may choose to get chicks earlier because then you’ll get eggs sooner (chickens begin laying at around 6 months old). 

5. Brooder (their house)

The first thing you’ll need before you bring your chicks home is a brooder. This is basically just a container for the chicks to live in until they move outside. When it comes to size there are differing rules of thumb. Some say 6 sq. ft per bird others say 2 sq. ft. You’ll see that chicks grow awfully fast and that the more room you can give them the better. I think at least 1 sq. ft per bird is good. I’ve used cardboard boxes in the past when we only got 4-6 chicks at a time but this year used a large round container we found in the barn for our 12 new chick. You can buy containers that are made specifically for brooding chicks like this one. The best choice if you are going with more than 6 chicks is something without 90 degree angles (like the one I linked above) as chicks can pile on top of each other and get squished in the corner.

.6. Bedding

When you get your brooder container you’ll need to add some bedding to absorb the poop and smells. The easiest choice is pine shavings or saw dust ,which you can get at your local farm supply store and saw mailers.

7. Netting

For top Like I said earlier, those little ladies will grow fast and will start trying to jump out and fly out of their brooder. The best way to deal with this is placing a netting material over the top so that they have air flow and light but can’t get out. We used something like this one.  Where’s their forever home? Also consider where they’re going after the brooder, they grow fast. If you don’t have a place already set up for your chickens you’re going to need to hustle to get it ready in the next few weeks. that’s why I always recommend having a coop ready or almost ready before bringing home your chicks.

8. Food (feed )

Raising baby chicks naturally is going to rely heavily on your feeding practices. If you buy cocci vaccinated chicks you must feed them a non-medicated feed. I go with organic chick starter/grower crumbles and feed the chicks that until they are about 5.5 months old. Then I feed an organic layer pellet. Another option is to go with a starter mash until about 6 weeks then switch to the starter/grower crumbles. You can mix yuor own feed but that’s more of an advanced feat to take on. To cut costs ,You can feed kitchen scraps and foraged feed as much as possible. I put their food into a chick feeder to avoid them climbing in and pooping in the food or scratching it out all over the place. You can buy a plastic piece for the food or just use a quart mason jar like I do.

9. Water

Chicken Chicks need lots of clean water. Be sure to get a chick water plate with cover so that your chicks don’t fall in and drown.  9. Power water For new chicks just arrived (or at any other time they might be extra stressed) you will need to mix up some power water ( vitamin drugs and antibiotics drugs) or you need to add a clove of garlic (crushed), a tablespoon of raw honey, and a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (ACV) to a quart of fresh water. Make sure you change this out daily for the first few days. The garlic is antimicrobial and an immune booster, the ACV is antiseptic as well and contains some probiotics while the honey gives the chicks a boost of energy.

.10. Grit

Chicken grit is small rocks that chickens swallow that help them to “chew” their food. Many experts say that if you’re feeding a commercial feed like a mash or a crumble (or even a pellet) there’s no reason to give grit as it breaks down easily. This may be true but I feel like there is no harm in providing grit so why not? Also, if you’re going to give anything other than commercial feed like grass or other greens, or kitchen scraps you must provide grit. There are 3 different kind of feeds you can buy to feed your chicks from day olds to adult 1. starter 2.grower and 3.layer. Starter is good for chicks in the first 6-10 weeks or so. Check the bag for exact age but don’t worry too much about it. If your chicks go outside they are likely picking up their own grit as well.

11. Temperature

When it comes to raising baby chicks the temperature may be the most important aspect. Baby chicks need to be kept warm and can chill easily. A chicken’s normal body temperature is actually around 105-107 degrees F. A baby chicks body temp is about 103.5 F when it’s born. They need to be kept very warm! Many people use heat lamps for this task. I have never used a heat lamp. I use the Brinsea Eco Glow which I feel is much safer and easier to use. The idea is that the Eco Glow acts like the mother, a warm place chicks can go under when they are cold. Chicks will naturally spend more time away from their heat source (mom or the Eco Glow) as they get older and begin growing feathers. It works out really well because there’s no need for a thermometer to check the temp or to be super vigilant about whether the heat lamp is too close or too far. As long as it’s over 50 degrees in the room the chicks are in the Eco Glow is plenty for them. It’s also great because there is no light to bother the chicks when they are sleeping. It feels like the next best thing to a broody hen! Remember, always have the brooder set up before picking up your chicks! Fill your container about 8 inches deep. this way you won’t have to add more later when the poop starts piling up (the chicks will scratch around and turn the bedding to keep it fresh). For the first week however many people place paper towels over the shavings to deter the chicks from eating the bedding which could be dangerous to them (though I’ve noticed mine eating a piece here and there and nothing has happened). Place paper towel over shavings. Fill water (ad power water ingredients if you want), put water on a small piece of wood to stabilize it (but be sure it’s low enough for the chicks to reach).   Fill food. Put this on small block of wood too if you can. Turn on heat source before going to pick up your chicks! When your chicks arrive home: Dip beak in water as you place them in brooder so they know where the water is. Observe to make sure everyone is eating, drinking, and pooping. Watch behavior. Leave them alone at first but then handle them gently but often. This is so they aren’t afraid of being handled. it makes life easier later. Raising baby chicks: What to look out for Though raising baby chicks is pretty straight forward, there are a few thing you need to watch out for. Anytime your chicks are acting strange or sick it’s a good idea to investigate. Here are two big things to look out for. Coccidiosis This is what you’ve either chosen to vaccinate against or not. Symptoms according to The Poultry Site: Droopiness and listlessness Loss of appetite Loss of yellow color in shanks, pale combs and wattles Huddling or acting chilled, Blood or mucus in the feces Diarrhea Dehydration Death  If you suspect cocci, separate the chick right away and follow the directions in this post for treatment. Separate the chick Pasty butt Pasty butt is basically just poop stuck over the vent, though the chick may also become listless or otherwise look unwell. If you notice pasty butt you must act right away because if a chick can’t poop it could die. If you follow these steps, your chicks will be healthy and perfect.