Natural Herbs, Weeds and Flowers for Chickens health

Chickens can eat herbs, flowers, and weeds along with insects and worms. They dig into the ground for foods ,. If allowed access, chickens will eat greens and bugs every day, all day. It makes us happy to see them happily pecking in the yard. But have you ever thought about what plants they are actually eating?

Have you thought that some of these plants might be toxic? Or perhaps some of them have more benefits than you may think. In this article, we will be discussing what weeds, herbs, and flowers is good for your flock, which ones you should avoid, and which ones have special and healthy benefits for you flock

Weeds

Weeds can be very healthy and nutritious for our flock. Especially weeds like dandelions, chickweed, and clover. Dandelions are a good source of calcium, vitamins A, B, C, E, and K and contain iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc. Chickweed acts as a natural pain reliever and aids in digestive health. Chickweed is also high in vitamin B. Clover is a highly nutritious perennial high in calcium, niacin, potassium, vitamins A and B, iron, and protein. Aiding in respiratory and circulatory health, it is a very healthy plant for chickens to eat.

Other weeds that are good for chickens include: •
Beautyberry
•Bitter Cress
•Burweed
•Catchweed Bedstraw
•Catsear •Evening Primrose
•Fat Hen
•Hawkweed
•Mugwort
•Oxalis
•Plantain
•Purslane
•Shiny Cudweed
•Smartweed •
it nice to think that now you don’t have to throw out those weeds but instead you can feed them to your flock? Also, if you let your chickens free-range, they will do some of your weed-picking for you. (Of course, they won’t pull the root out from the ground though.) If you keep a compost pile, consider throwing your weeds in and then allowing your flock to forage in there.
And then of course there are weeds you shouldn’t feed your flock.
These weeds include:
•Buttercup
•St. John's Wort Herbs​
Herbs can be extremely good and healthy for chickens too. Lavender, bee balm, yarrow, oregano, parsley, and mint are all examples of beneficial herbs. Lavender is calming, soothing and aromatic. Bee balm is also calming and aids in a chicken’s digestive tract. Yarrow acts as a stress and pain reliever and boosts the respiratory system. Oregano is thought to combat diseases such as coccidiosis, salmonella, infectious bronchitis, and E. coli. Parsley is one of my favorites. It is very high in vitamins, aids in the digestive system, and acts as a laying stimulant. Mint helps prevent flies in the chicken living quarters and is highly aromatic.

Herbs

The list of herbs for chickens is long.
Here are the best I could come up with besides the ones already listed:
•Basil
•Bay Leaves
•Catnip
•Cayenne Pepper
•Chamomile
•Cilantro
•Cinnamon
•Comfrey
•Dill •Fennel
•Feverfew
•Garlic
•Ginger
•Gotu Kola
•Lemon Balm
•Nettles
•Peppermint
•Pineapple Sage
•Rosemary
•Sage
•Spearmint
•Tarragon
•Thyme
•Wormwood
I just love using herbs in my flock! I notice an improvement in their health and even their eggs. Herbs are a “must-have” for flock owners who want to keep their naturally healthy flock.
But there are some dangerous herbs that can poison your flock. Steer clear of these following:
•Castor Bean
•Honeysuckle
•Vetch

Flowers ​

Chickens love to eat not only greens but also flowers. They love to slurp petals in their mouths like we do spaghetti noodles! There are many flowers that hold health benefits for chickens. Roses, marigolds, and nasturtium are some examples. Rose petals are aromatic, calming, and high in vitamin C. Marigolds are possibly my favorite flower to use in my flock. They are highly aromatic; add color to egg yolks and soothing to irritated skin. Nasturtium acts as a laying stimulant and light antibiotic. All three of these flowers are best used in hen nesting boxes.

These are flowers to feed chickens include: •Calendula
•Echinacea
•Geraniums
•Hibiscus
•Hollyhock
•Impatiens
•Lilac
•Pansy
•Pea Blossoms
•Peony
•Phlox
•Squash Blossom
•Sunflower
  And there are those flowers that should be avoided:
•Azalea
•Clematis
•Corn Cockle
•Foxglove
•Henbane
•Iris
•Lily of the Valley
•Sweet Pea
•Rhododendron
  Well, there you have it! Chickens generally know what plants they can and can’t eat but we still need to be aware of what they are eating. I hope you have got clearer understanding of the weeds, herbs, and flowers that are best used for chicken health and growth.

Feed your Chicken , using eggshells as a calcium source

Many misconceptions out there about feeding chickens eggshells for calcium, so I will share what I know and you can decide what to do.

In this article, when I say "hen" I mean any laying female chicken.  a female chicken is a "pullet" until they turn a year old.

First, why do hens need calcium?

A chicken eggshell is 95 percent "calcium carbonate". Calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is made of calcium (Ca), oxygen (O), and carbon (C). Don't worry, the rest of the article isn't this sciency! ;)

Eggshells are the highest natural source of calcium in the world! But think of all the calcium it takes to make that tough shell! Not to mention that chickens need a bit of calcium for their bones too...

If hens don't get enough calcium, their eggshells will get thinner, and they may start having problems such as:
Soft-shelled eggs
Shell-less eggs
Oddly shaped eggs
Fairy eggs (aka pullet eggs, rooster eggs, yolk-less eggs, fart eggs, and more)
All the problems listed above have the possibility of turning into egg-binding (also called eggbound hens), which can sometimes be deadly. And all can be fixed and prevented by having more calcium in the hens' diet.

This just goes to say, monitor your eggs for problems. Also, each chicken will react differently when lacking in calcium. I have one hen who will lay fairy eggs with extra thick shells when she is lacking in calcium, one who's eggshells get super thin, and a couple who lay extra long or pointy eggs.

How do I give them more calcium?
Thankfully, supplying calcium is pretty easy. There are three main ways to do this.

Layer Feed
You can find this at most feed stores. It works great, but if you have roosters or non-laying chicks in your flock, the extra calcium could hurt them. Use this only if you have a flock of laying hens.

Oyster Shells (OS)
You can find this at most feed stores too. Feed it as free-choice along side your ordinary feed and the hens will eat it according to their inner cravings.

I recommend always having a bag of it on hand, even if you use eggshells, for reasons I will state later.

Recycled Eggshells
This is the cheapest and most natural method. My personal favorite! Let's get started...

Methods:
Eggshells can be prepared in many different ways. Because this can sometimes be a hot topic, please listen to this: there is no right or wrong way. Just because somebody doesn't do it the same way you do doesn't mean you get to criticize them for it. We're all in the same world and want the best for our chickens!

One popular concern is that feeding the chickens eggshells will convince them to eat their own eggs. Some people have problems with this, and others don't. But if you are worried about it, the safest method is the baking method, and try crunching up your eggshells extra small.

Air-dry
In this method all you do is let your eggshells dry for a day or two before feeding them to your hens. Eggs prepared like this are often hard to crunch up. This is often combined with Rinsing.

Rinsing
Just rinse your shells in water. That's all there is too it.

Baking
This is the most cautious way, and the safest. Place your eggshells on a cookie sheet and bake them in the oven for five minutes. I recommend putting them in after something else has finished cooking so you don't waste any electricity. Some people do this in microwaves.

Eggshells fresh out of the oven

Those are the main ways. If you know of any others, please comment below or send me a PM!

Most (though not all) people crunch up their eggshells before feeding them to the flock. How small you want them is up to you. Some people do them in bite sized pieces, some crumble them to a powder. Others just feed them to their flock whole.

Crunched up eggshells
I wouldn't feed your chickens eggshells from store eggs. These often have chemicals sprayed on them.
Chickens can also get calcium from insects.
Every once in a while, I feed my hens oyster shells. Think of it this way; a bit of calcium from the eggshells will be saved for the hens' bones, and some will get lost along the way. Over time your recycled eggshells won't have enough calcium in them to support your hens. So I occasionally boost my eggshells with OS.
Because of the latter note, you may be thinking "If I am going to use OS anyways, then why bother with eggshells?" Well, eggshells are completely free while you have to buy oyster shells. Would you rather feed your hens oyster shells full-time and pay the cost, or feed eggshells with just a bit of OS in the side?
As mentioned before, I recommend feeding eggshells (or OS) as free-choice. The hens will eat it If there bodies are craving it, and the roosters will mostly avoid them.
Have fun with your eggshells!

I love nature and am working on becoming more self sufficient. I also love using my chicken knowledge to help other people!

If you have any questions or feedback about my article, please comment below or send me a PM.

Molting in chicken , What happens when your chicken molt ?

When your chicken begin to lose feathers you are worry, why this is happening to you beautiful chicken, don't worry is just a natural thing.
Molting refers to the shedding of feathers. It is the natural process of losing and regrowing of new feathers. Mostly all birds do it including chickens. Molting is generally, not a pretty sight! In fact, it usually hard to watch a chicken undergo a rough molting. Every chicken has about 8,500 feathers so losing them all is quite painful! Chickens have two kinds of molts: the juvenile molt and the annual molt. Let’s take a look at when molting happens, how to help chickens through it, and how to manage the molt .
 
What to do when Molting Occurs​

The first molt, also known as the juvenile molt, happens between 4-12 week period of a chicken’s life. They are constantly losing and growing feathers during this time. The annual molting happens once in a year, normally the chicken will experience this hard molt when it's around 16-18 months old. In fall the daylight hours get shorter, which signals to the chickens that it's time to regrow new feathers for the upcoming winter months. However, molting can happen at any time of the year because of lack of good nutrition, lack of water, and bullying/stress. I have seen a hen who went without water for about 8 hours and she molted for a week!

it is also possible that if you get poor quality stock chickens,, they can molt three or more times each year. Chickens generally don’t have the annual molt in their first year of life. But this is not always true. Most chickens molted in their first year. The annual molt lasts 5-7 weeks on average. However, they can be as short as two weeks or as long as twelve weeks! Older chickens always take longer than the younger one.

Why did chicken Molts

Many people don’t understand the whole point of the molt. But, there is purpose and beauty reasons behind it. Since chickens are busy creatures, they are constantly losing and breaking feathers. By the end of the year, their feathers are not appropriate for the duty of keeping the chickens warm during cold weather. The molt causes the chickens to lose these old feathers and grow strong, and warm new ones. By the end of the molt, your chickens will look amazing! Like they are brand new! Of course, the actual molting process is not fun to watch , but it is necessary for you chicken.

How Molting Occurs​

Most chicken begin molting at the tail and move up from there. Or start molting their saddle feathers first. All chickens molt differently.

Signs of  Molting in chicken

You may wonder if you’ll be able to notice your chickens molting. The answer is yes….and no! It really varies from chicken to chicken. Some molt so slowly you will hardly notice. Others throw all their feathers off at once and are half-naked for weeks. Rarely will you get a completely bald chicken. You also will notice great amounts of feathers laying around the coop and run. Other signs of molting include:
Decreased Laying
Hungrier Chickens
Feather-Eating Chickens
An Aggressive and Suddenly Shy Flock

How to help​ your chicken during molting ?

As you have probably gathered from the already stated information, molting is stressful and hard on a chicken’s body. While some people may run screaming for the hills, other people immediately want to know how they can help. There are many ways in which to help the molting flock. First of all, feathers take up 85% protein, and with all the feathers being lost; there is a great need for extra protein. Besides the normal chicken feed, you should provide foods with extra protein such as oatmeal, quinoa, scrambled or hard-boiled eggs, meat scraps, corn, peas, dry dog or cat food, tuna fish, black oil sunflower seeds, and soyabean meal. Be sure that you feed these all in moderation and do not overdo them! This will cause diarrhea and other problems.

If your molting chickens do not get enough protein, they will start pecking aggressively at each other and eat any feathers they can find. There are some feeds out there that are specially made for molting chickens and can be fed in higher quantities. These include Feather Fixers and Mite Fixers. Apple cider vinegar also helps a lot during the molt. It is full of vitamins and minerals.
These are all wonderful for your flock. It will not only help their molt but it will also take their mind off it and make them happy.

Other ways to help molting chickens include: not handling them as much as Poussin or to prevent injury, pain, and stress, making sure they have plenty of roaming room and access to shelter, making sure they have lots of water, and trying to reduce as much stress as possible.

Sometimes you may come across an injured, molting bird. Newly emerging feathers have vein-filled shafts. If a shaft is injured or cut, it will bleed a lot, similar to cutting the quick in a dog’s claw. This causes pain and stress on the bird so be sure and remove her from the rest of the flock. Clean her wound once it stops bleeding and remove it using tweezers. Keep her isolated until she is completely healed.

Some facts you should know about the chicken Molts

1.  Hens normally quit laying during molting,  Molting takes lots of energy and is stressful. Not to mention the protein required to molt. Instead of going to eggs, all the chicken’s body nutrients go to finishing the molt. Roosters often stop fertilizing during the molt too. Your flock will not be very productive during the molt.

2. Molting is a great way to find out which of your hens are the best producers. Good layers molt late and fast while poor layers molt early and slow. The primary wing feathers determine whether a hen is an early or late molter. The large, stiff, “flight” feathers can be seen on the outer part of each wing when the wing is spread out. Generally, there are ten primary feathers on each wing that are separated from the smaller secondary feathers by a short axial feather. Late molting hens lose primary feathers in groups of two or more, whereas early molting lose feathers individually.

3.Pure bred chickens usually take longer to molt than hybrids.

4.Broody hens molt after every hatch.

5. Chickens begin to run from human during the molt because they are stressed and fear the touching of humans which can result in pain.

6. Once the molt is finished, your flock will return to their normal behaviors and duties.

7. Bullying behaviors increase during molt.

8. Molting doesn’t always happen in fall. Chickens have been known to molt in spring, summer, and even winter.

9. Most chickens have a different molting pattern.

Signs and Symptoms of Chicken Flu

The closest thing to a ‘chicken cold’ is Chronic Respiratory Disease (CRD), which has all the typical flu-like symptoms. Chronic respiratory diseases is not often fatal, but is like Fever for humans, the disease will remain in the chickens system for life.
one sneeze doesn’t mean an instant diagnosis of CRD, but if the sneezing is coming repeatedly and combined with other symptoms like nasal discharge and coughing, then a trip to the vets might be the next thing. CRD can cause re-occurring health problems in the future, and makes your chickens more susceptible to disease. Therefore it’s important to identify potential causes early, and to take precautions to prevent it before your flocks health is compromised.

What are the causes of respiratory diseases ?

1. Extreme temperatures

If there’s a sudden change in temperature, this can take a toll on your chickens’ health especially if its bitterly cold. Chickens need time to acclimatise to changing temperatures, and don’t do well with sudden shocks.

2. When new Chicken are being introduced to an existing flock

Introducing new chickens to a existing flock is a very stressful experience , and a stressful environment does make chickens more susceptible to disease. There are definitely things you can do to make this process less of an upheaval for all flocks , always isolate new chicken for at least a week before you add it to you existing flocks.

3. Dust/fine residue

A dusty coop environment can cause respiratory disease, as they irritate the chickens’ airways. Always make sure the coop is clean and bedding is changed regularly. Also, be careful when pouring feed out of the sack - sometimes this can stir up small pieces of residue into the air.

4.Moist litter

Moist litter and bedding is a breeding ground for disease, and can allow mould to grow - therefore replacing it regularly is very important.

5.Poor coop ventilation

A poorly ventilated coop that allows cold, sneaky drafts to infiltrate is a sure way to get your chicken sick! The best way to prevent drafts is to have a well ventilated coop.
   
Symptoms of Flu in your Chicken flocks

These are certain behaviours and symptoms that can indicate a respiratory problem in your chickens.

1. Coughing

If your chicken sounds like its got a nasty cough then it may be a symptom of CRD. It’ll sound like a raspy crow.

2.Nasal discharge

If there is a sticky, clear nasal discharge emerging from the chickens’ nose, then this may be a symptom of CRD.

3 Sneezing

A chickens’ sneeze is easy to identify - it pretty much sounds like a sneeze from any other animal! Generally this means something is interfering with their respiratory system .

4.Loss of appetite

When you chickens is sick is likely that you chicken will not eat as much as normal. This can also cause slow growth, as they aren’t getting the nutrients that they need.

5.Reduced egg production

If you’ve noticed drop in egg production , is not what it once was (unless your flock are moulting, or you're experiencing the cold season), this can be an indicator that something is wrong with their health.

These are possible Treatment of respiratory disease
Most Respiratory diseases are treated by uses of antibiotics. If the symptoms aren’t severe and are mainly a result of environmental factors, then once this has been rectified, the symptoms should clear up. These symptoms will manifest more in cold weather, so don’t freak out by the sign of a sneeze! Having a well ventilated coop is one of the best ways to ensure your chickens aren’t exposed to cold drafts that can be damaging to your flock’s health.
All your coops must have designed to prevent them from drafts, and to keep your flock as comfortable and healthy as possible.
As chicken keepers, we like to think that we are doing the best , but there is often more we can do to prevent diseases from.our flocks.

What you should do to stop that your egg eating Chickens

Did you have chickens who do eat their own eggs ? These are what you need to do to stop them. The simple truth is that you must have been doing something that pushes them over the edge to become egg-eaters. Before it gets worst, let’s find out the real reasons why your hens are eating their own eggs.
The answers can be vary – but you’ll soon have this problem sorted out once and for all.

There are Reasons Why your Chickens will begin to eat their Own Eggs .
Several reasons could begin the dreaded egg-eating in your flock. Once you figure out the reason causing your particular issue, you can create a remedy to solve the problem.

These are the reasons why your Hen will eat their own eggs

1. Overcrowding An overcrowded coop is the most common causes of egg-eating behavior in chickens. Just imagine you are put in one small, confined room with your entire family. Wouldn’t you feel stressed, annoyed, and exhausted ? The same thing happens with chicken, and it can get pretty ugly. The stress is too much for the chickens to handle that they’ll start pecking the egg shells until it breaks and the egg yolk spills out. In other cases, they’ll resort to feather pecking and cannibalism . Placing too many chickens under one roof is unhygienic. In case you haven’t noticed, chickens poop all the time. Small space + dirty chicken house and you have a recipe for disaster – not only several pieces of broken eggs but a breeding ground of diseases Solution: Fixing overcrowding is straightforward – you need to upgrade your chickens’ house. The more room you have for chickens to freely move around, the better (2). Unless you have space to free-range, chickens need at least four square feet per bird. Take note this is only for floor space – the nesting box and nesting area are excluded.

2. Nesting Boxes not enough

Eggs easily break if multiple hens are trying to squeeze into the same box – just two to three steps and crack! broken eggs. Of course, there is one possibility that you have an egg-eater in your flock but if you’ve harvested without broken eggs before, then there’s an issue with nest boxes. Even when it’s not egg-laying time, chickens will access the nest box and display pre-laying nesting behavior Hens have been found to work harder to access a discrete nest site prior to egg laying than they do gaining access to food following 4 hours of food deprivation. So, it’s no surprise that one of your hens, due to hormones and ovulation, will go to the nest box and not lay a single egg. If there are already eggs in the nesting box, well, you might as well say goodbye to two to three eggs. And, once she gets the taste of that yolk, the habit of egg-eating will kick in. Solution: . Harvest fresh eggs daily. For every four hens, you need one nest box. The boxes should be at least a 12-inch square and positioned four feet or more away from the roosts. Make sure to harvest every day to give your pre-laying hens a chance to lay. You can also add fresh bedding to the nest boxes and coop often. If an egg does happen to escape from nest boxes, fluffy bedding should provide adequate protection.

3. Unbalanced Diet (FEED)

Now if you already have a spacious coop and the right number of nest boxes, but your hens still have the nasty habit of egg eating, it may be a sign of something more serious. Egg-laying chickens require higher calcium intake in their diet ,Naturally, they will try to figure out a way to solve the problem themselves by pecking and eating the egg shells – the egg shell is pure calcium. Then, they’ll accidentally (and unknowingly) discover that the contents of the eggs are tasty and jumpstart the egg-eating habit! A low-calcium diet can also mean thin-shelled eggs and fewer eggs to harvest. If prolonged, calcium deficiency can lead to paralysis and even death. Solution: There are three things you can do to stop your birds from becoming egg eaters. First, you should provide the hens with a balanced diet A quality feed contains 16 to 18% protein content. Look for a complete diet designed for laying hens. For feed recipes and more information, see our ultimate guide to Chicken Feed Here! Now if you’re already feeding the hens with quality chicken feed, they’ll still benefit from adding more calcium to their diet. This leads us to the second solution – feeding crushed egg shells to your chickens. You can feed your hens crushed-up egg shells for extra calcium. Not only it is economical, but it’s also hassle-free to obtain and the easiest solution to fix their egg-eating habit. If you provide eggshells for additional calcium, be sure to crush them up thoroughly. You don’t want an unbalanced diet affecting your chickens’ gizzard.

4. Boredom

Chickens are like kids. Keep them together in one space without anything to do, and boom a war ensues. They’ll look for fun and then without any warning they’ll start fighting each other. And once they’ve figured that the eggs’ contents taste amazing, well, say goodbye to your eggs. Solution: What do you do to keep peace in your flock? Of course, give the kids something to do! That applies to chicken too. There are several ways that you can bust chicken boredom and stop hens from eating eggs. Here are some ideas: Turn the coop into a multi-leveled playground by adding several roosts. You can use PVC pipes, ladders, and anything else that you could get your hands on! Build their own dust bathing spot. It’s not only great for entertainment but dust bathing also keeps those nasty parasites like mites from ruining your hens’ plumage. Add a pile of dirt or hay in the coop. Chickens, including your egg-eating hens, hate the sight of a pile. They’ll stomp the pile down until it’s completely flat. If you tried the above tips and still have an egg eating chicken, you have a problem on your hands.. Unfortunately, there are many circumstances in which that hen must be culled. It isn’t the result you want, but she will pass the habit onto other hens. Before deciding to cull, here are some other tips when you want to figure out how to stop chickens from eating eggs. Find the culprit. You might catch her in the act of note that she has yolk on her beak and feathers. Remember, there could be more than one! Once you catch the criminals, isolate them for the flock for a few days. The isolation might be enough to break the habit. Place ceramic eggs or golf balls in the nests. The hen will tire of trying to break open the fake egg. Fill an emptied egg with mustard. She will break it and find the contents offending. You could also add dyed contents if you are having issues finding the egg eater. Now You Know What To Do If Your Chickens Eat Their Own Eggs The issue could be as simple as needing to change their diet or adding a few boredom busters to their coop. If the prevention tips don’t work, determine your culprit and separate her from the rest of the flock. After isolation, you can determine if culling is necessary. If you also have egg eating hen before or now please share with us, Thanks

Tips for Raising day old chicks, (Baby Chicken)

Raising Baby Chickens  for Beginners Much of our knowledge came from the old method of trial and error, but there are a few things that every new backyard chicken farmer needs to consider before bringing those adorable baby chicks home. Here are the tips for raising baby chickens:

1. Environment – Make sure your brooder is big enough that all of your chicks can move around freely. You can make your brooder out of any materials as long as if provides about half of foot for each chicken. We have user livestock water troughs, clothes baskets, storage bins, and when I just had two chicks I used a bushel basket.

2. Heat – Suspend a red, 250-watt lamp about a foot above your brooder floor for warmth.  Keep the temperature in the brooder between 90-95 degrees F for the first week, and start decreasing it by 5 degrees each week by raising the light higher above the brooder. I have learned to keep an extra bulb on hand in case of burn out. 

3. Bedding – You wouldn’t think baby chicks are messy but they are and their bedding needs to be changed daily. Pinewood shavings are the best choice for bedding.  Newspaper and straw become slippery for small chicks.

4. Water – Baby chick learn fast, but there is one mother hen duty you must teach as soon as you bring them home. Dip their beaks into the fresh clean water from a baby chick waterer and let them drink 4-5 hours before introducing feed to them. Raise the waterer a couple of inches off the bottom of the brooder to keep the bedding from contaminating the water. 

5. Feed – Baby chicks are little-eating machines and will eat about 10 pounds of chick starter per bird in the first 10 weeks of their life. Find a good quality chick starter feed and that is all they need to get started.  If you buy your chickens from a reliable source and your bedding and brooder are kept clean, you should not need to medicate or add anything to their diet but the chick starter feed for their first 10 weeks.  I have always used to top feed baby chick feeders for my new arrivals. 

6.Buying – To get it started with your own backyard chickens you can buy chickens at any age, but we like to buy day-old chicks so we can watch their development.  It’s so exciting to see that baby chick grows into an egg-producing hen. Purchase your chicks from a local hatchery, your local feed store, or online.  The last few batches we’ve ordered online , If you’re just starting out they allow for small orders, where many of the other online hatcheries have a 25 chick minimum. Most hatcheries will routinely vaccinate before shipping. Be aware that day-old chicks are much cheaper than buying older pullets, but they do require some extra attention to get started. If you’re interested in egg production only, purchase all females since a rooster is not necessary unless you want fertilized eggs.

7.Breed – There are many different breeds to choose from, but we have found that the black and brown colour hen  are our picks for a dual-purpose bird. They are good egg producers, have an easy temperament and double good as a meat chicken when needed. We have so much fun watching our baby chickens grow into egg-laying, meat providing farm birds. Record their progress, take lots of pictures and don’t be afraid to try new breeds.   

Having Rabbits as House Pet

If you are thinking of getting a pet ? Rabbits are good type of pet you can have around you. how to care for a rabbit first. And good thing you did! Rabbits are often a lot more work than people expect.
They have a very strict diet and need daily exercise and socialization. But I wouldn’t be here talking about rabbits if they couldn’t also be bouncing bundles of joy and great pets. Can rabbits make a good pets? Yes , Rabbits are amazing, affectionate, and social pets.
They can be great house pets if you take the time to socialize them and learn about their basic body language. However, rabbits require a lot more care than people typically expect, so it’s important to be prepared before bringing a rabbits home .
As you go through this list, take the time to consider whether or not a rabbit is the pet for you and your house. If you’re ready to take on the challenges of becoming a rabbit caretaker, go for it! Rabbits are truly awesome pets and I think more people should consider rabbits as possible friend. But if you don’t think you’ll be able to handle a rabbit at their worst, it might be better to wait a couple years to give yourself the chance to prepare a home for a new Rabbits.

Things you should know before you owning a pet rabbit As someone who loves rabbits, I truly believe these little balls of fluff can be great house pets. Rabbits are full of personality and have a way of bringing joy to your days. There are so many people who would be great rabbit caretakers. What about you? Do you think you’re a good match for a rabbit ?

13 Tips and things you should know before you get that pet rabbit

1. Rabbits are quiet While rabbits are capable of making sounds, they are among the quietest pets to own. They don’t stay up late at night barking, and they don’t meow at you to demand attention. I would even argue that sometimes a rabbit is quieter than a mouse because mice squeak and rabbits don’t.  This means that if you live in an apartment or in any close-together housing, you don’t have to worry about your rabbit annoying your neighbors. Rabbits are a great match for people who enjoy a quiet lifestyle. The two of you can easily occupy the same space without stressing each other out.  Rabbits don’t make many noises, but they will thump their hind legs if they are angry or scared. The only exception to quiet rabbits, is when they start thumping. Sometimes, rarely, rabbits thump their strong hindlegs against the ground. These little creatures can create a surprisingly loud sound when they thump. This behavior means one of two things: The rabbit is frustrated or angry with you. Usually there will only be one loud thump to let you know how disappointed they are in you. The rabbit is scared of something and is trying to warn you. This is when a rabbit will be continuously thumping, and their behavior will also have a very rigid and alert body position. As a rabbit caretaker you will likely hear a thumping rabbit at some point, but it’s not a particularly common behavior. If you are doing what you can to keep the rabbit’s environment calm and stress-free, they’ll only thump continuously if there is something scary around..

2. Rabbits can use a litter box Rabbits poop a lot, but it’s pretty easy to clean up after them when they are litter trained. If you adopt a rabbit as an adult, many of them will already be trained to use a litter box. But even if they don’t know how to use one when you first bring them home, it’s usually pretty easy to teach them.  Tip: Moving the hay near the litter box can encourage your rabbit to use the litter box more. Rabbits prefer to be clean and keep their waste in one place. By putting a litter box where they chose to make their bathroom, you can teach your rabbit to use it. This means that you don’t have to worry about your rabbit peeing and pooping all over your house. Just like a cat, they’ll be able to go back and use the bathroom whenever they need to. You may find it difficult to litter train a rabbit who has not been spayed or neutered though. Unaltered rabbits will spray urine and scatter poop as a way to claim their territory. If you aren’t adopting a rabbit who has already been spayed or neutered, it’s a good idea to schedule an appointment for them as soon as they reach adulthood.

3. Rabbits are very neat animal You may have heard at some point that rabbits are smelly and messy animals. But this is a myth. Most of the time, rabbits will not smell up anyone’s house and you won’t have to worry about covering up their odor. Rabbits will spend a good portion of the day grooming themselves to stay clean. Rabbits are meticulously clean animals. They don’t have a discernible body odor, and even their poop doesn’t have a strong smell. The only part of rabbits that tends to have a strong smell is their urine, which has a high ammonia content. But as long as you keep your rabbit’s enclosure clean and scoop out their litter box every day, you shouldn’t have to worry about having a smelly house.

4. Rabbits have a long lifespan Believe it or not, pet rabbits have an average lifespan of about 10 years. The age can vary based on the rabbit’s breed and living conditions. Indoor rabbits tend to have a longer life expectancy than outdoor rabbits. But you can still expect a rabbit to live much longer than you first thought. The average rabbit lifespan is about 10 years! This means that rabbits are pets that will stay with you for a long time. Rabbits will be able to grow with you and become great companion animals. They’ll bring joy to your life for a long time while you learn about all the quirks of rabbit behavior. A long lifespan also means that there is a lot to consider before bringing a rabbit home. It’s not a choice you should make on the spur of the moment, because you’ll have 10 years ahead of you being responsible for the health and happiness of your pet rabbit. Make sure when you bring your bunny home, you are ready for the commitment.

5. Rabbits can be trained Like dogs, rabbits are very intelligent and can be trained to do tricks. This is a lot of fun and a great way to bond with a pet rabbit. I train my rabbits to give me high fives, and give me kisses. They can also be trained to come when you call them or even jump through agility courses. You can teach your rabbit to spin by luring them in a circle. Rabbits can also be harness trained so you can bring them for walks outside. Some people will bring their more adventurous rabbits with them to the park or to the beach to give their rabbit a chance to see the world. Rabbits are really amazing creatures, and it’s so interesting to work with them and see how their little brains work. It can be a little difficult at times to teach them tricks, but if you’re up to the challenge, rabbits can be a great pet for you. 6. Rabbits are very social and affectionate Rabbits are social animals. They love to hang out around people and demand attention. They’ll come up to you and beg for treats, or binky around the living room as you’re watching TV. My rabbit likes to always know where I am. If I leave the room she’ll follow me (even to the bathroom). Rabbits are also very affectionate animals. They’ll often lick their caretakers to groom them, or lay down next to you to show their trust. When a rabbit is excited to see you, they’ll run circles around your feet, and when they are content some rabbits will even climb into your lap and start purring. Rabbits will show you they love you and are excited to see you by running circles around your feet. These little fluffers are full of personality. As you learn about rabbit body language, you’ll be able to understand what these social butterflies are trying to tell you. You’ll know when they’re happy and you’ll understand when they are upset with you. Your rabbit will become an integral part of your life and family.

7. Rabbits are gentle animal As prey animals, rabbits are almost always very gentle creatures. They may be very shy at first, but once a rabbit is comfortable around people, they will be happy to come up and nudge you gently for treats or petting. Rabbits aren’t going to jump up on you like a dog, and they are not aren’t going to lash out at you like a cat when they get annoyed. Rabbits are very gentle pets and enjoy spending time with you and being pet. Rabbits can show aggressive behavior if they are afraid and feel cornered, but it’s not their first instinct. Some rabbits will become territorial and aggressively protect their space if they have not been spayed or neutered. So this is another good reason to make sure you get your rabbit fixed.

8. Rabbits love to be around human If you’ve ever wanted a pet you could sit with for hours, rabbits are for you. They love to be pet and massaged. Give them scritches on the top of their head or behind their ears and they will melt into the floor. If you stop petting them, most rabbits will nudge your hand to ask you to keep going because they like it so much. My rabbit will even hop into my lap and settle down while I give her a nice massage. While I wouldn’t say lap rabbits are common, many will be happy to hop up on the sofa next to you and sprawl out while you pet them. They might even fall asleep! Rabbits will grind their teeth and purr to show that they are relaxed and content. If you adopt a young rabbit, you might not notice this behavior until they get older. Young rabbits tend to be fidgety and full of energy. They don’t settle down for extended periods of time. But as they get older, rabbits will inevitably calm down and enjoy a good massage while spending time with you. Bunnies (Baby Rabbits) are the cutest! The way rabbits wash their face is just the cutest. Or they will stand up on their hindlegs to beg for treats with those big bunny eyes and cute twitching nose. Not to mention iconic rabbit ears that are so long and floppy. They can give a rabbit that adorable inquisitive look, like a puppy when they look confused. Not to mention the adorable way that rabbits look when they manage to eat food that looks too big for their mouths. Some rabbit breeds even stay tiny forever. Netherland Dwarfs, for example, are one of the smallest rabbit breeds, weighing only 2.5lbs as adult rabbits. There are more than a dozen recognized rabbit breeds that stay under 5lbs even as adult rabbits. The cons of owning a pet rabbit Sometimes pet rabbits are a little more trouble than you bargained for. They may be adorable, social bundles of joy, but these little bunnies have a knack for getting into trouble. Many people get a rabbit expecting them to require the amount of care as a hamster or gerbil, and are quickly shocked by how much responsibility rabbits are. Rabbits are not the most difficult pet to take care of, but they do have a number of drawbacks that you will need to be prepared for. As you go through this list, really consider if you are up to the commitment of having a pet rabbit, even when they are being little devils.

9. Rabbits like to chew on everything Rabbits have teeth that continue to grow longer (like fingernails), so they need to chew on things to keep them from overgrowing. This means that rabbits have the instinct to chew on wooden objects, such as your furniture and baseboards. You will need to rabbit-proof your house in a way that keeps your rabbits away from anything you don’t want them to chew on. Rabbits love to chew on wires, so make sure yours are covered or blocked off. Rabbits are also known for being a menace to household wires. This is unfortunate for our many chargers and appliances that no longer work. But it’s also incredibly dangerous to our pet rabbits. When they chew on a wire, they run the risk of getting electrocuted. To keep your rabbit safe, you will need to either remove all the wires from your rabbits reach, or cover them with plastic split tube wire covers. These little troublemakers can also try to dig into the corners of rooms and completely destroy the carpet. Since rabbits are burrowers in the wild, they have the instinct to try to dig tunnels. To stop them from destroying your flooring, you’ll want to place a plastic mat down in the corners of rooms. Check out more of my recommendations for rabbit-proofing your home!

10. Rabbits don’t like to be held Some people get rabbits expecting them to be a super cuddly pet. Then they are upset to find that their rabbit kicks and scrambles to escape every time they are picked up. Rabbits are prey animals whose ancestors depended on the ability to run away from predators. So when rabbits are trapped in someone’s arms, with no way to run away, they get very scared. While there are rare exceptions, most rabbits hate to be held. If you pick your rabbit up every time you interact with them, they’ll start to get scared of you and run away whenever you approach. They won’t even come up to you to be pet anymore because they want to avoid being picked up. Most rabbits don’t like to be held, so you shouldn’t pick them up all the time. If you want a rabbit because you think they’ll be easy to handle and hug, then this might not be the pet for you. But if you’re open to interacting with your rabbit on their level, petting them on the floor, then you and your rabbit have a much better chance at getting along.

11. Rabbits need a lot of space Most rabbit cages that are sold in pet stores and online are actually much too small for rabbits. The length of a rabbit enclosure should be at least 3 to 4 times the full length (measured from nose to toe when they are sprawled out) of your rabbit.  This means even a small rabbit that is about 1 foot in length should have an enclosure that is 3 to 4 feet long. Most cages sold for rabbits aren’t even 2 feet long! So don’t get sucked in by the marketing. Rabbits need a lot more space than you expect. I recommend using a rabbit exercise pen as their enclosure. It gives the rabbit a lot of space and it’s easy to clean. And bunnies need space to exercise too. For at least 1 to 2 hours a day, your rabbit will need to have access to an exercise space. I recommend the space be at least 24 square feet, but really any normal-sized room in your house will be good enough. Let the rabbit out for exercise, and stick around to supervise them so they don’t get into any trouble. Sure, compared to the amount of space a dog needs, rabbits don’t need that much. Even a small apartment will give a rabbit enough space to exercise, and there are ways of arranging the space to make sure they can have a big enough enclosure. But rabbits do need a lot more space than new rabbit caretakers are led to believe.

12. Rabbits need a lot of attention Rabbits are very social creatures, and you can’t just feed them and then leave them alone. You need to interact with your rabbit. Rabbits that are left alone all day tend to become bored. They’ll be more likely to act out to try to get your attention or they’ll get depressed and lose interest in everything.  Rabbits can get bored and grumpy if they’re left in a small cage all day with nothing to do. You’ll want to give your rabbit as much time with you and other people as you can. Hang out with your rabbit by sitting on the floor with them. Pet them and give them the love that they need. It’s especially good if you can spend time with them in the morning and the evening. Rabbits are crepuscular animals, which means they are most active around dawn and dusk, so these are the ideal times to interact with a pet rabbit. If you don’t have the time to give your rabbit the attention they need, consider getting a second rabbit to have a bonded pair. This way the rabbits will be able to spend time with each other and won’t require as much attention from their caretaker.

13. Rabbits have a complicated diet You can’t just give rabbits a bowl full of kibble, like you can for a cat or a dog. Rabbits have a very sensitive digestive system that requires a very specific diet. If they have an unhealthy diet, rabbits run a serious risk of developing gastrointestinal complications. Their gut can slow down, or even stop, causing a rabbit a lot of distress. In worst case scenarios this can be fatal for rabbits. There are three parts to a healthy rabbit diet: The first thing you want to consider is hay. Rabbits should always have an unlimited supply of grass-based hay (timothy, oat, orchard hay). You never want them to run out of hay because it is essential to the way their digestion works. Next you want to give them 1 to 2 cups of fresh leafy greens on a daily basis. These will provide a lot of nutrients and vitamins that rabbits don’t get from hay alone.  Last and least important is the pellets. Rabbits should only be given about ¼ to ½ a cup of pellets a day. Resist the urge to completely fill a rabbit’s bowl with pellets. They will run out before the end of the day, but they’ll still have all that hay available to eat.