HOW TO KEEP CHICKEN BABY CHICKS HEALTHY NATURALLY

Raising baby chicks and growing your own eggs (among other foods) is a great way to know where your food is coming from .
But Many people are reluctant to get started because they’re worried about how to go about it. First, whatever you do as a thoughtful, caring person will be infinitely better than what happens to a battery hen. Secondly, if you want to raise baby chicks naturally I have put together a guide for you.
These guides will help you to be more confident when you get started with your first chicks.

1.  Where to get chicks

. There are a number of places you can find chicks but the local farm store is probably the most easy and most popular place. Other choices are a local homesteader, a breeder (online or locally) or from a friend.   Read this post to learn more about where to get your chicks and the pros and cons of each method.

2Should I get my chicks vaccinated?

There are two main vaccines for chicks, Marek’s and Coccidiosis. The Hatching House vaccinates for Marek’s disease but not Coccidiosis. If you want them not to vaccinate for Marek’s you can request that. For my small backyard flock I don’t think either vaccine is always necessary. You can always check your local agricultural extension office for the scoop on how prevalant Marek’s disease is in your area. I allowed the Marek’s vaccine however, since I didn’t have time to figure out if it was a problem here. The Coccidiosis vaccine is one I don’t believe I’ll ever get for my chicks. it is a live vaccine (not weakened) and may actually cause illness. Again, for a small backyard flock I don’t believe this is necessary when keeping the brooder and coop clean and dry works as excellent prevention. Also, you can prevent cocci with medicated feed if you want (I don’t). If you do get a cocci vaccinated chick, don’t feed them medicated feed because it can nullify the vaccine (more on that in the feed section).

4 When to buy chicks ?

If you’ve decided to try raising baby chicks you may be wondering when you should jump in. When you choose to order or pick up your chicks is up to you. Warm period is perfect time to raise chicks. I have always waited until around may to get my chicks because it’s warmer out and I don’t like to keep the chicks inside any longer than necessary.  In a warmer climate you may choose to get chicks earlier because then you’ll get eggs sooner (chickens begin laying at around 6 months old). 

5. Brooder (their house)

The first thing you’ll need before you bring your chicks home is a brooder. This is basically just a container for the chicks to live in until they move outside. When it comes to size there are differing rules of thumb. Some say 6 sq. ft per bird others say 2 sq. ft. You’ll see that chicks grow awfully fast and that the more room you can give them the better. I think at least 1 sq. ft per bird is good. I’ve used cardboard boxes in the past when we only got 4-6 chicks at a time but this year used a large round container we found in the barn for our 12 new chick. You can buy containers that are made specifically for brooding chicks like this one. The best choice if you are going with more than 6 chicks is something without 90 degree angles (like the one I linked above) as chicks can pile on top of each other and get squished in the corner.

.6. Bedding

When you get your brooder container you’ll need to add some bedding to absorb the poop and smells. The easiest choice is pine shavings or saw dust ,which you can get at your local farm supply store and saw mailers.

7. Netting

For top Like I said earlier, those little ladies will grow fast and will start trying to jump out and fly out of their brooder. The best way to deal with this is placing a netting material over the top so that they have air flow and light but can’t get out. We used something like this one.  Where’s their forever home? Also consider where they’re going after the brooder, they grow fast. If you don’t have a place already set up for your chickens you’re going to need to hustle to get it ready in the next few weeks. that’s why I always recommend having a coop ready or almost ready before bringing home your chicks.

8. Food (feed )

Raising baby chicks naturally is going to rely heavily on your feeding practices. If you buy cocci vaccinated chicks you must feed them a non-medicated feed. I go with organic chick starter/grower crumbles and feed the chicks that until they are about 5.5 months old. Then I feed an organic layer pellet. Another option is to go with a starter mash until about 6 weeks then switch to the starter/grower crumbles. You can mix yuor own feed but that’s more of an advanced feat to take on. To cut costs ,You can feed kitchen scraps and foraged feed as much as possible. I put their food into a chick feeder to avoid them climbing in and pooping in the food or scratching it out all over the place. You can buy a plastic piece for the food or just use a quart mason jar like I do.

9. Water

Chicken Chicks need lots of clean water. Be sure to get a chick water plate with cover so that your chicks don’t fall in and drown.  9. Power water For new chicks just arrived (or at any other time they might be extra stressed) you will need to mix up some power water ( vitamin drugs and antibiotics drugs) or you need to add a clove of garlic (crushed), a tablespoon of raw honey, and a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (ACV) to a quart of fresh water. Make sure you change this out daily for the first few days. The garlic is antimicrobial and an immune booster, the ACV is antiseptic as well and contains some probiotics while the honey gives the chicks a boost of energy.

.10. Grit

Chicken grit is small rocks that chickens swallow that help them to “chew” their food. Many experts say that if you’re feeding a commercial feed like a mash or a crumble (or even a pellet) there’s no reason to give grit as it breaks down easily. This may be true but I feel like there is no harm in providing grit so why not? Also, if you’re going to give anything other than commercial feed like grass or other greens, or kitchen scraps you must provide grit. There are 3 different kind of feeds you can buy to feed your chicks from day olds to adult 1. starter 2.grower and 3.layer. Starter is good for chicks in the first 6-10 weeks or so. Check the bag for exact age but don’t worry too much about it. If your chicks go outside they are likely picking up their own grit as well.

11. Temperature

When it comes to raising baby chicks the temperature may be the most important aspect. Baby chicks need to be kept warm and can chill easily. A chicken’s normal body temperature is actually around 105-107 degrees F. A baby chicks body temp is about 103.5 F when it’s born. They need to be kept very warm! Many people use heat lamps for this task. I have never used a heat lamp. I use the Brinsea Eco Glow which I feel is much safer and easier to use. The idea is that the Eco Glow acts like the mother, a warm place chicks can go under when they are cold. Chicks will naturally spend more time away from their heat source (mom or the Eco Glow) as they get older and begin growing feathers. It works out really well because there’s no need for a thermometer to check the temp or to be super vigilant about whether the heat lamp is too close or too far. As long as it’s over 50 degrees in the room the chicks are in the Eco Glow is plenty for them. It’s also great because there is no light to bother the chicks when they are sleeping. It feels like the next best thing to a broody hen! Remember, always have the brooder set up before picking up your chicks! Fill your container about 8 inches deep. this way you won’t have to add more later when the poop starts piling up (the chicks will scratch around and turn the bedding to keep it fresh). For the first week however many people place paper towels over the shavings to deter the chicks from eating the bedding which could be dangerous to them (though I’ve noticed mine eating a piece here and there and nothing has happened). Place paper towel over shavings. Fill water (ad power water ingredients if you want), put water on a small piece of wood to stabilize it (but be sure it’s low enough for the chicks to reach).   Fill food. Put this on small block of wood too if you can. Turn on heat source before going to pick up your chicks! When your chicks arrive home: Dip beak in water as you place them in brooder so they know where the water is. Observe to make sure everyone is eating, drinking, and pooping. Watch behavior. Leave them alone at first but then handle them gently but often. This is so they aren’t afraid of being handled. it makes life easier later. Raising baby chicks: What to look out for Though raising baby chicks is pretty straight forward, there are a few thing you need to watch out for. Anytime your chicks are acting strange or sick it’s a good idea to investigate. Here are two big things to look out for. Coccidiosis This is what you’ve either chosen to vaccinate against or not. Symptoms according to The Poultry Site: Droopiness and listlessness Loss of appetite Loss of yellow color in shanks, pale combs and wattles Huddling or acting chilled, Blood or mucus in the feces Diarrhea Dehydration Death  If you suspect cocci, separate the chick right away and follow the directions in this post for treatment. Separate the chick Pasty butt Pasty butt is basically just poop stuck over the vent, though the chick may also become listless or otherwise look unwell. If you notice pasty butt you must act right away because if a chick can’t poop it could die. If you follow these steps, your chicks will be healthy and perfect.

7 BENEFITS OF RAISING BACKYARD CHICKEN AND TURKEY

Backyard chickens!  Backyard chicken are often not in the backyard always.  Sometimes they’re in the side yard, the front yard, even inside the house. Wherever you keep your chicken,  they are so much fun to have around and have so many wonderful uses and benefits, I can’t imagine my homestead without a flock of backyard chickens and turkey.

When I first got chickens I was so scared that I would mess up. What I realized was that I was definitely going to mess up, but anything I could do with good intentions would be better for the chickens than a life in a factory farm. So I learned as I went and am so glad I gave it a try because there are so many amazing benefits in having backyard chickens!

These are 7 reasons you should also have backyard chickens and turkey.

1. Production fresh and healthy meat

Getting fresh and healthy meat is one of the good side of having backyard chickens and turkey, we all eat meat and most of us love eating chicken meat, when you have your backyard chickens, it make it possible and easy to get your fresh and healthy meat from your chicken and turkey.

2. Production of fresh eggs.

Eggs are a cheap form of protein especially when they are fresh from your healthy flock, they are even more nutritious (and delicious!). A study found that the vitamin A, E, and fatty acid (like omega-3) content of pastured eggs was much higher than conventional eggs.

But at $6 a dozen for pastured chicken eggs you’re better off growing your own, especially if you find creative ways to feed your flock for less (or zero).

3.  Educating your children

There’s something profound about a child fully understanding where their food comes from. I think it’s funny when adults assume that I don’t let my kids know that chicken does indeed come from chickens. I mean, I do get it, that may have been me a number of years ago, worried that the truth would scar them.

However, we decided that if we were going to have livestock we would not hide what that means from our kids. If we are going to eat it, it’s important that we know where it comes from. I want my kids to be grateful for their food, and I feel that gratitude begins by knowing that it doesn’t just come from a shelf at the store.

It’s also really great to watch your kids learn through farming. OG knows so much about science just by observing her backyard chickens. She knows that baby chicks come from eggs, but baby people don’t come from eggs. She knows that they stay warm because of their feathers. She knows that foxes like to eat chickens! It’s amazing what they can learn through immersion.

She also learns about responsibility and what it means to care for someone or something else.

4. Helping in cleaning of your garden

Chickens are excellent help in the garden. I’ve let my backyard chickens run through the garden at different times of the season for different kinds of help.

I don’t let them in the garden when new plants are growing because they’ll decimate them, but I have let them in the garden once the plants are large enough to not be killed easily. The chickens may take a few bites of kale but they’ll also eat the bugs that might otherwise eat the garden.

You do have to be careful doing this because you’ll be surprised what your chickens will eat. If you’re concerned they’ll eat too much, you can just let them into the garden at the beginning and end of the growing season to get bugs and pests at that time. I’ve done it this way too and found it very helpful in keeping pests down.

Chickens will also help till. If you put your chickens into the garden just before planting they can help loosen the top layer of soil. They can also till in any soil amendments you need added to your soil.

Their manure helps fertilize the garden and they can eat weeds, so the garden gets manured and weeded whilebackyard chickens get fed, win-win!

5. Free Fertilizer

No need to go and buy manure for your garden, just head to the compost pile! In our current coop we use the deep litter method, which means the manure decomposes in the coop and we add more bedding to continue the decomposition as needed. In the spring we remove the bedding and manure to a compost pile to continue decomposing.

I don’t typically do a hot compost because it takes some attention to get it right (monitoring temperature and water), but a hot compost system would create finished manure in just a few weeks. I usually just let the manure sit until the fall and then throw it on the garden for the following spring.

Additionally, you can let your chickens into the garden to eat bugs and weeds. While they’re at it they’ll manure the garden too!

6. Chicken TV

When you have chickens you don’t need TV! They are so stinkin’ fun to watch. I really can’t explain it, but it’s true. Everyone who has come to visit has mentioned how fun the chickens are to watch. My kids like trying to hold them and pet them too. I think OG feels especially proud when she’s able to catch one, so there’s another benefit!

7 Self Sustainability

With chickens and eggs right in your backyard you can theoretically keep yourself in chicken and eggs indefinitely. Not to mention you’re eliminating the fossil fuels needed to transport chicken and eggs to the grocery store for you.

I always like knowing that if we’re snowed in, or there’s a flood or something else that keeps us from leaving our home, we at least have eggs (and usually much more via the garden).

These benefits are many but these are 6 we can discuss for now, you too can try to raise backyard chickens in your compound, is so fun and profitable.

CAUSES, TREATMENT AND CARE FOR BUMBLE FOOT IN CHICKEN

There are many infection that can infect your chicken , we will discuss Bumble foot on this blog. Bumble foot is the term used to describe an infection on a chicken’s foot; it is referred to as “plantar pododermatitis” by medical professionals. Bumblefoot is characterized by swelling, sometimes redness and often a characteristic black or brown scab on the bottom of the foot. Left untreated, serious cases of bumble foot can be fatal as the infection can spread to other tissues and bones.

THESE ARE CAUSE OF BUMBLE FOOT

Bumblefoot results when the skin of the foot is compromised in some way, allowing bacteria to invade the foot, causing infection. Broken skin allows bacteria (e.g.: staphylococcus) to get inside the foot, which leads to a pus-filled abscess. The entry point for bacteria can be a cut, scrape, injury or breakdown of the skin from walking on wet, dirty bedding. Injuries can result from a splintered roost or repetitive, heavy landings from heights, particularly in heavy breeds and obese chickens. My unscientific opinion is that most bumblefoot infections result from small cuts or scrapes acquired during normal, scratching and foraging. Whatever the cause, failure to treat it can result in the spread of the infection to the bones and tendons, debilitating pain and death.

PREVENTION AND DETECTION OF BUMBLE FOOT

Preventative measures should be taken to avoid bumblefoot as treatment is painful and time-consuming and eradicating it, difficult. Regular flock foot inspections are highly recommended to detect infections at the earliest possible stage.  The bird in the following photo is a bumblefoot frequent-flyer. She was not limping despite the awful-looking scab. The lesion was discovered during a routine exam. Chickens require a complete, balanced diet to avoid vitamin deficiencies and obesity that put them at risk of contracting bumblefoot. Laying hens need a complete layer ration with an additional calcium source such as crushed oyster shells or egg shells available to them in a separate hopper. Treats, snacks and kitchen scraps should not comprise more than 5-10 percent of a flock’s daily dietary intake so as not to disrupt the nutritional balance carefully calculated in commercial layer feeds and to avoid obesity. Roosts should be splinter-free and less than eighteen inches from the floor. Coop litter should be kept dry and clean. Consider using sand instead of pine shavings or straw in the coop and run. Any spills drain away from the surface of sand quickly, sand is not as hospitable to bacterial growth as other litter types and it coats and desiccates droppings, which results in cleaner feet. The most common behavioral symptoms of bumblefoot include limping and lameness. By the time a chicken is seen limping, the infection has ordinarily been festering for quite some time. Examination of the foot pad may reveal redness, swelling and either a callous-looking lesion, a lump between the toes or a black scab on the foot pad. The following is not professional veterinary or medical advice. It is based on my experience as a backyard chicken-keeper and is shared knowing that without it, some pets may suffer unnecessarily or perish from the inability to obtain professional veterinary care.

TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR BUMBLE FOOT

1.Mild cases can take a ‘wait and see’ approach but they tend to get worse. Some cases can be treated with the removal of the scab and the application of Vetericyn 2-3 times a day until healed, but most cannot. or 2) Remove the scab and underlying infected tissue as detailed below.

BUMBLEFOOT SURGERY

Ideally, a chicken with bumblefoot will be treated by a poultry veterinarian. I do not have a poultry vet locally and the following procedures are the ones I use on my chickens’ bumblefoot infections. As unpleasant as the procedure is for me, I am always mindful that if I do not treat them, they will suffer. When the alternatives to not treating the bird are pain, death from the infection or euthanasia, I opt for treating my birds myself. The procedure is not complicated or technically challenging, but it can be time consuming and emotionally taxing to perform this graphic procedure on one’s pet. It generally takes about an hour to complete and while it can be done by one person, two makes it much easier. I find that performing this procedure is best done at the kitchen sink where adequate lighting, counter space and a water source are available. PAIN There is no question that this procedure is painful. My chickens appear to tolerate this procedure well, however, chickens do not react to or express pain in ways we are accustomed to expect: crying, wincing, cringing, whimpering, etc. While the bird remains stoic throughout the procedure, the calm demeanor is thought to have evolved as a defense mechanism for self-preservation in the wild so as not to attract attention from predators. The bumblefoot removal procedure is indeed painful for chickens, however, local anesthetics should only be administered by a veterinarian. (veterinarians can perform a nerve block with .5 to 1.0 ml 2% lidocaine/2% injectable) My dog’s vet prescribed meloxicam, brand name Metacam® for me to keep on-hand for pain relief, which is safe for use in chickens. (The dosage is .5mg/kg  After weighing the bird, this calculator calculates the amount for the chicken’s weight.) I give my chickens a dose thirty minutes prior to the procedure. I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and stocked with: Vetericyn VF, Betadine, triple antibiotic ointment, vitamins & electrolytes, sterile scalpels, non-stick gauze pads, Vetrap, tweezers, disposable gloves, Epsom salt, chlorhexadine 2% solution and scissors.

PREPARATION & EQUIPMENT

The supplies and equipment used include: several large towels, gloves, Vetrap, scalpel or biopsy punch, paper towels, chlorhexadine 2% solution spray,  Vetericyn spray or triple antibiotic ointment & non-stick gauze. All of the supplies are available online at the affiliate links provided and many are commonly found in drugstores or supermarkets. Infection control is of the utmost importance at every stage of this procedure. The sink is sanitized with a chlorhexadine 2% solution spray or bleach and water solution and sterile instruments are used. Gloves are worn to protect the bird and the operator as staph infections can be contracted by humans.The following is my YouTube video of bumblefoot surgery from start to finish.

SOAK

The affected foot is soaked in warm water and Epsom salt or warm water and Betadine and scrubbed for a general cleaning and to soften up the foot tissue. Chlorhexadine 2% solution spray is then applied to kill bacteria remaining on the surface of the foot. Very mild cases of bumblefoot may then be treated by excising the scab with a scalpel, applying chlorhexadine or Vetericyn to the abscess, covering with non-stick gauze and wrapping the foot with Vetrap. Vetericyn is re-applied two to three times a day and covered until healed. Not all cases of bumblefoot respond to this superficial treatment, however. Stubborn or more advanced abscesses are surgically removed. In some instances, antibiotics (such as Tylan 50 or oxytetracycline 200 mg intramuscular injections ) may be necessary, however none of my bumblefoot cases have required antibiotics in order to heal.

WRAP THE LEG

When surgical removal is necessary, after the foot is cleaned the bird is wrapped very loosely in a towel, covering its head and eyes, ensuring ample breathing room. This keeps the bird immobilized and calm. It is laid on the work surface, on its back with the affected foot facing towards the operator. It helps to have assistant holding the chicken in place gently and securely. Talking to the chicken throughout the procedure can be reassuring to both the bird and the operator. Vetericyn VF is again applied to the foot. Some oozing blood is expected, but not ghastly amounts. Dabbing the blood with paper towels helps create a clearer view of the work area. The object is to locate the heart of the abscess or dead tissue, which is commonly referred to as the “kernel,” core” or “plug.” The plug consists of dehydrated pus that has solidified- it often looks like a waxy, dried kernel of corn. Healthy tissue inside the foot is soft, pliable and pink. A solid kernel is not always present, in which case, the infection appears as stringy, slippery bits of thread-like, whitish/yellowish tissue. Using a scalpel or biopsy punch, the foot pad is cut into around the circumference of the scab, straight down into the foot. A biopsy punch acts like an apple corer, removi (I’m not a fan of the biopsy punch method.)  If using a scalpel, the task is a bit more tedious as live tissue is teased away from the abscess little by little. The scab itself is often attached to the abscess and can helift the core out of the foot with the aid of a dry paper towel.

FINISHING UP & BANDAGING 

In cases where there is no central core or kernel, deciding when to end the procedure can be challenging. The stringy bits of tissue are extremely difficult to remove and it rarely seems as if it has all been removed. When it is determined that most of the tissue that can be removed has been removed, the foot is then prepared for bandaging. Chlorhexadine spray is used to sanitize the area one last time, then a triple antibiotic ointment is liberally applied to the open wound a 2” x 2” square of non-stick gauze is placed over the wound. The four corners of the gauze are folded in towards the center of the square, creating a smaller square, which creates a little bit of pressure to the area to stem any residual bleeding or oozing and keeps the antibiotic ointment in place. The gauze is kept in place with Vetrap, which is a self-adhesive bandaging material that is lightweight, flexible and requires no tape to stay securely in place. It is not sticky or gluey and it stays secure even under normal scratching and roosting activities. It is important not to pull the Vetrap too tightly as it can cut off circulation to the foot.  One, six inch strip of Vetrap cut lengthwise into three or four smaller pieces is usually sufficient. The first strip of Vetrap is held in one hand, starting at the top of the foot and with the other hand, pulled over the gauze, then around and between the toes. The weaving is repeated with the remaining two strips, ending the wrap around the “ankle” by an inch or so.

OBSERVATION & FOLLOW-UP

The Vetrap remains in place for 24-48 hours after which it is removed to assess the wound. If the gauze has stuck to the wound at all, soaking in warm water loosens it. After the Vetwrap was removed, the gauze showed a little oozing, which is to be expected. The Vetwrap does a great job of keeping the area clean and dry. Stella has been in the coop with the rest of the flock since the surgery. Since the gauze was a little stuck to the wound area, (we had run out of non-stick gauze. oops) we soaked it in Epsom salt water before attempting to remove it. This is exactly how the wound should look three days after the procedure. A new, healthy scab is forming, some of which came off with the removal of the gauze, but it looks healthy. We re-bandaged as described above. The examination is intended to identify any redness, swelling, foul odor, red streaks up the foot and leg or excessive oozing that may indicate a secondary infection that would require treatment antibiotics. If the foot appears to be healing well, the same wound care and bandaging procedure described above is repeated. The bandage remains on the foot for a week to ten days, changing it approximately 48 hours. A new and improved scab will form; it will not be black as the original scab may have been. While injured chickens are ordinarily separated from the flock for their own protection from other flock members, it is not necessary when using Vetrap as the bandage stays securely in place and the wound cannot be accessed by curious birds. This is Phoebe five weeks after her bumblefoot surgery, happily digging in the woods. Back to business as usual and molting hideously.Four days post-op and Stella is out-and-about with the rest of the flock.      

REASON YOUR HEN MAY NOT LAY EGG OR STOP LAYING SUDDENLY

As a poultry farmer that is looking for high eggs production, many of us raise chickens, wait patiently for the first egg to drop, months pass and nothing. Or our hens suddenly stop laying for no apparently reason. Why are we not getting any eggs? Here are a few reasons why your hen may not lay eggs or stop laying suddenly.

1. Daylight and the seasons

In nature chickens only laid eggs in Spring and into the middle of Summer. The reason for this is because chickens lay eggs to reproduce and during the Spring and Summer months the weather is good and there is more food available, so conditions are perfect for raising chicks. When the days get shorter the hens' bodies sense the change of season and egg production slows down and stops. Humans have been modifying this behaviour and have been breeding the most prolific layers to ensure year round egg production, but given the chance most hens will still do what nature tell them to. Most hens need a minimum 14-16 hours of light per day to fool their bodies into thinking it's Spring and keep them in production. This could be either natural or electric light or a combination of both. Adding electric light to the coop will help keep your hens in production, but keep in mind that this could shorten the hen's egg laying lifespan. Hens are born with a limited amount of egg cells and once those are spent she'll lay no more eggs. If you do decide to add a light have it on in the mornings, so you don't disrupt the hens' natural roosting behaviour. You do not need a bright light, just enough to read a newspaper by.

2. Stress factor

Stressed hens either lay very strange eggs or no eggs at all. A fright, running out of food and water, disruptions of the pecking order (for example adding a rooster to the flock) and getting moved to a new coop/run all causes stress. When you buy hens and bring them home to a new coop it could take up to 6 weeks before they start laying again. Adding unfiltered Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) will help your chickens deal better with stress. The ratio is 4-5 tablespoons to a gallon water.



3. Incorrect or improper Feeding

The average laying hen's skeleton contains 20g calcium and one egg represents 10% of that. Hens do have calcium reserves stored up in their bodies, but if they do not get enough calcium from their food for their egg shells the stores will get depleted very quickly and they will stop laying. It's important that laying hens get fed either a proper, balanced layer feed (mash or pellets) or a good quality all flock feed with a calcium supplement like oyster shell offered free choice. It is best to offer layer food "free choice" i.e. have the feeders full at all times, to ensure hens get enough food. Keep in mind that the average hen needs 5 ounces of food and 10 ounces of water to produce 1 egg. Feeding too much treats, table scraps and scratch means the hens will eat less of the food they need, so only feed limited amounts of those. Overfeeding scraps and scratch can also cause the hens to get too fat. Overweight hens don't lay eggs.

4.  Molting

Molting is a natural process which allows hens to replace old, worn feather by shedding them and growing new ones. It is usually triggered by day length (shorter days), but it can happen any time of the year. A stressful event can trigger it too. Most hens molt once a year, usually over winter in their second year and it is advisable to let to let your hens molt in their second year. Regrowing feathers takes us much of the body's resources as egg laying does, so during a molt most hens won't lay. A molt usually takes between 2 and 6 months to complete and unfortunately this process cannot be rushed. Some extra protein in their feed will help the hens a lot during this time.

5. Disease and Parasites

Diseases and parasite infestations will cause hens to either lay less or stop laying completely. Good parasite control is important and if a hen shows any sign of disease she should be isolated and treated asap. Some of the most common parasites that can cause a drop in egg production are mites, lice and fleas, which can be controlled by regularly dusting the hens, their coop and run with a good quality poultry dust. Internal parasites to look out for are round worms and tape worms. Deworm the flock every 6 months as a precaution. The withdrawal period for most dewormers are 14 days and the eggs laid during that period should be discarded and should not be incubated. The residue in the eggs causes severely handicapped chicks and most die shortly after hatching.
Diseases that influence egg production are fowl pox, coccidiosis, infectious bronchitis, Newcastle disease, Avian influenza, chronic respiratory infection, fowl cholera and infectious coryza. Most of these diseases can be controlled by vaccinating the flock and maintaining good hygiene practices.

6. Extremes temperature

Too high or low temperatures also affect egg laying. In winter aim to keep the temperature in your coop above 55*F and in summer make sure they have plenty water and shade to help them stay cool. Feed treats like watermelon, make sure the hens have plenty fresh, cool water to drink and put a fan in the coop if possible.


7. Broodiness

When hens go broody their hormones tell them to stop laying eggs and incubate and hatch them instead. They will sit in the nest box all day and night, refuse to get up and steal other hens' eggs if given the opportunity. Unwanted broodiness a nuisance, but there are techniques to "break" them and get them back into production.

8. The hen's age

Hens that won't lay can either be too young or too old.
The average age of a hen when she starts laying is 6 months. Some smaller breeds like Leghorns, Stars and Australorps lay sooner and larger breeds like Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks and Orpingtons start later. The first 2 years of a hen's life is her most productive. By the time she's 5 years old she will only lay half as frequently as she did during her first 2 years. Good egg laying hens have 2 egg laying cycles of 50-60 weeks each. After that there will be a sharp decline in egg production.

A good sign of a pullet approaching lay is the colour of her comb. If her comb turns a bright red colour she's ready. The reason for the colour change is to show the rooster that she is ready to start laying fertile eggs. Her pelvis will be wider and if you look at her vent it will be moist and pink.
There is also a simple test you can do to check if your hen is laying/ready. Hold the hen firmly and turn her on her back. Put your fingers on her breast bone and work your way down to her vent area. You should feel 2 bones sticking up. These are her pelvic bones. If you can fit only 1 finger upright between her pelvic bones she's still roughly 4 weeks off laying, 1 and 1/2 fingers means she's a little closer, 2/3 weeks and 2 or more fingers means she's either close to or laying already.
These are few reason why your hen may not lay eggs or stop laying. If you observed any of these listed reasons ,please make correction immediately.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN BUYING NEW CHICKENS

When you are about to buy your new or old chicken, there are some things you should look out for, all what you need to know will be discuss on this blog.
When buying chickens, whether it's for the first time or not, we all get excited. We know though that it requires research and sometimes that can take a lot of time. In this article, I have combined some of the basic information you need to get started. In some of my article I discussed getting the right breeds for you, now I'm going to discuss what to look for when buying new chickens. I'll go through these questions: How to tell if the birds you are buying are healthy? How to tell pullets from cockerels? How to tell if you are getting good laying hens? This article will give you a few tips and help to make your job a whole lot easier.

How to tell if the birds you are buying are healthy-

Buying healthy birds is always important. You want to make sure you are getting healthy birds so you don't have to spend money to treat them or so that they won't infect the rest of your flock. Here's some signs to look for, not just in the birds but from the place you are buying them from too.

1. Check the holding. (Clean tidy farms are an indication of better hygiene therefore their birds are less likely to have disease)
2. Check the other birds on the farm to see if they seem bright, alert and active.
3. Check your chosen chicken(s). - Are they bright, active and scratching around? (Note: Dull, withdrawn, hunched chickens are generally unwell)
4. Check for diarrhea in the pen.
5. Check the bird’s vent is not pasty. (Droppings sticking to the feathers which can block the poop, this can be fatal)
6. Listen for sneezing and congestion.
7. Check for runny or swelling in the eyes.
8. Check the eyes are bright and clear with no discharge.
9. Look at the feathers of the chicken. (If they are ruffled and the feathers don't seem neatly together they are likely unhealthy)
10. Check for mites and lice.
11. Look for scaly leg. (Symptoms are raised encrusted, thickened scales)
12. Check the muscle on either side of its breast bone. (Very prominent breast bones are a sign of being underweight)
13. Check the pads of the chickens feet for abscesses and ulcers.

Now if the chickens have a couple of these signs it might be okay to bring them home you can nurse them back to health if you wish, but just remember that if you have other birds, quarantine your new ones from them for 3 weeks just to make sure they don't have some illness and they won't infect your existing flock.
Keep in mind also, if you buy from a NPIP flock the birds are tested yearly, and the facility is inspected by a USDA or State Veterinarian, you will most likely not be able to visit the chicks or pens because of biosecurity rules.

How to tell pullets from cockerels-

When buying new chickens you want to be able to tell females from males, especially if you want them for egg laying. Above 5 months of age chickens are generally pretty easy to tell which ones are females and which ones are males, but what about when they are still young?

By one week old, pullets (females) usually have wing and tail feathers developing earlier than cockerels (males).

By five weeks old:
1. Cockerels are usually bigger than pullets.
2. Cockerels have a bigger, redder comb.
3. Cockerels are braver and more friendly.
4. Cockerels have longer, thicker legs.
5. Cockerels have a curved, stumpy tail.
6. The feathering in cockerels is less developed all over - on the legs, back, side of neck, crops, wing bows and flank you may see quills or down rather than well developed feathers.

One great trick to try is to note their behavior when you put your finger in front of their faces/beaks. Pullets will cower down, while cockerels will stand up to you.
All these tips will help you in determine healthy and productive hen, if you also have any other tips you can comment so that others can learn from your experience. Thanks.

THE LENGTH OF TIME IT WILL TAKE TURKEY TO BEGING LAYING EGGS

Turkeys are one of the wonderful  backyard poultry pet. Although not prolific layers, hens produce spotted gourmet-quality eggs and the iridescent feathers of the males can be used in feather crafts. The length of time it will take your turkey to begin laying eggs or be large enough to serve up for dinner will depend on its breed.

Turkeys for meat.
Some domesticated turkeys have been breed for rapid growth to be ready for the table after 14 weeks. The male turkeys weigh in at more than 40 pounds at this age and females are in the 35-pound range. Broad-breasted bronze and white turkeys are the two most widely available meat breeds. They are not good egg layers and can grow too large to support their weight with their legs.

Local Breeds
Heritage turkey breeds such as the Narrangansett or royal palm mature much more slowly than the broad-breasted breeds. At 28 weeks, the turkeys are ready for the table with males weighing in at a little more than 20 pounds and females about 8 pounds lighter. These turkeys become sexually mature at 5 to 6 months of age and females will lay an egg every other day in the spring and early summer beginning at 6 or 7 months old.
  The local turkey eggs can be fertile naturally by mating while the foreign Turkey can only get fertile artificially.

Labels: Turkey maturity time

BACKYARD CHICKEN FARM FOR EGGS PRODUCTION

If you don't have the space to erect a coop for a few laying hens, your eggs will have to continue coming from the grocery store. But it's worth giving up a bit of backyard space and a little of your time in exchange for your eggs supply .

             Size of the House
Determining the size of hen house you need is kind of like a "chicken and the egg" quandary. You need to know how many laying hens you'll be housing in order to build the coop, but you have to have a coop before you can bring home your hens. The amount of space available for a hen house might dictate how many hens you'll end up with. Build your hen house first then figure out how many laying hens you can have. Since 2 1/2 to 3 square feet is the amount of floor space each of your hens will need, divide the square footage of your coop by 3. The resulting number is the maximum number of laying hens you should have.

The Laying Parlor
A house for your laying hens is more than a dry, secure place to keep them. Your chickens' coop should be divided into separate areas just like your house is. The laying parlor is an important feature for your hen house since you'll be keeping hens expressly for the purpose of laying eggs. This area should take up about 1/3 of the total house. Provide at least one nest for every four hens you have and elevate the nests 4 to 24 inches above the ground. This can be done either by building a platform to place the nests upon or by nailing them to the wall. You don't have to place a dividing wall in the coop, but you can lay a 2 by 4 on the ground at the threshold of the parlor to designate the laying parlor from the rest of the hen house.

Roosting And Living Areas
The biggest part of your hens' house will be like a great room. Your hens will have 2/3 of their living space for roosting, eating and exercise. It doesn't matter how you arrange the roosting and living areas of the coop, but one way is to place rails 18 to 24 inches above the ground on the opposite end of the coop from the laying parlor. Use 2 inch dowels or pieces of wood that are 2 inches by 2 inches. Depending on how many laying hens you have, you may need more than one rail, as each chicken should be allowed 6 inches of space to roost upon. If you require more than one roost, space them 14 inches apart from each other. A food hopper and water fountain can be placed anywhere else within the living space.

Dirt, Wood Or Concrete Floor?
Hen houses don't require a specific type of flooring, provided that the coop protects your chickens from predators and any type of weather. It can even have a dirt floor if the house itself sits on concrete footings or other secure system that would prevent a raccoon or other marauder from getting in to steal eggs and harm your hens. Your chickens enjoy taking a dust bath occasionally, so if you asked them they would definitely vote for dirt flooring. If you opt for a wood or concrete floor, count on laying in a supply of sawdust or wood shavings to use as litter. No matter what type of flooring you use, you'll have to sweep up droppings and keep the floor of your hen house clean.