TOP PREDATORS THAT CAN KILL BACKYARD CHICKEN AND TURKEY

  As backyard chickens owner, there are some predators you must know and guard against .
These are lists of some basic threat potential predators to chickens, depending on where you lives, your fencing, your coops, etc. Furthermore this isn’t a discussion about us overtaking natural areas for these animals; yes it happens, yes it is sad .
For now I want you to be aware of the present potential dangers, how to identify them and also ways to prevent them.

1. DOG

Your dog or neighborhood dogs can be chicken predators and pose a real threat to your flock. But even more…your own pooch. If you aren’t sure how your dog is going to react to your chickens (yes even little toy breeds), you need to put up a barrier between the two for awhile. A big dog that is able to get into your yard, and not your own dog, will probably carry kill your chicken.

2. CATS

Those sweet little kitties are related to BIG cats and they are predators. And not just feral cats folks; your neighbor’s sweet little kitty could be a potential threat to the life of your chickens. Most domestic cats aren’t big enough to carry off a full sized chicken so they’ll do their best to get to the larger/meatier parts of the chicken and leave the rest.

3. RACCOONS

Raccoons are one of the chicken predators I hear the most about; though not really an issue here in Phoenix. Many urban and suburban areas have raccoons in their backyards often. Raccoons are cute but they can also be pretty vicious. They’ll pull a chicken’s head clean off, right through your wire! They’ll carry off chicks and smaller birds if given the chance but most of the time you’re going to find a headless bird. It is very sad.

4. SNAKES

One of chicken worst predators is snakes, Snakes as chicken predators are generally not going to be able to kill and eat a full sized hen or rooster. But they will eat chicks, young birds and they love eggs. They also love heat lamps… I have heard some disturbing stories about poultry farmers finding snakes curled up in a nest box, full of an egg or two. After hearing that story I refused to pull eggs before the sun comes up.

5.  HAWKS & OWLS

These big birds are a real and present danger to your backyard chickens. Hawks are generally daytime hunters while owls hunt at night. Most of the time an owl isn’t going to do much to your birds because by the time they are hunting your chickens should be cooped for the night; but occasionally they get them. Hawks, however, are a much more common threat. They are fast, strong and can pick up a smaller breed or younger bird; though I have heard stories of full sized hens getting attacked and eaten.

6. RATS

Did you know that rats could be more of than a disgusting annoyance? Rats are omnivores and they like chicken coops. Not only will they steal any feed you make available (which is why I have had a Grandpa Feeder for years); but they have been known to eat eggs and chicks as well. I have never heard of a rat eating pullets or adult birds but given the opportunity I’m sure they’d love to. Take precautions to prevent rodents in your coop period – they’re just nasty.

My advice, First let me say all free-ranging chickens are potential victims, but if you know these predators , you will know what to do to protect your chickens from been killed .
The main reason of this article is to alert you and let you know these predators so as to prevents them from the damages they can do for your backyard chicken and turkey.

COMMON PROBLEMS IN RAISING CHICKEN CHICKS

When preparing to bring in new chicken chicks,  there are some things you need to know, there are some common problems in chicks you need to put in consideration.

  Chick season is upon us and just about everyone I know has hatched or bought new chicks for their flocks! By now your baby chicks are running around their brooder happily doing their cute little chick things. Whether you decide to buy or hatch your chicks, nothing can make the fun come to a halt faster than a sick chick can. I have spent more than my fair share of time worrying about the little feather balls, so I know how worried you must be!

It can be pretty upsetting when you don't know what's wrong with your chick. Luckily there aren't too many illnesses chicks can get so it's usually pretty easy to figure out what's wrong with your chicks

First of all relax, most chick issues are not your fault! Many are caused by genetics or nutritional deficiencies in the breeding stock.

The first thing you need to do when you notice a sick chick is to make sure they have everything they need in their brooder (Special house). You'll want to make sure chicks are not too hot or too cold. If your chicks are a week old the brooder temperature should be around 95° at chick level, right under their heat source. You'll want to decrease this temperature by 5° a week as they grow.

Make sure their water is clean and not contaminated with food, bedding or chick poo. Make sure the food is dry and free from chick droppings also.
Common Chick Illnesses
Pasty butt: when diarrhea like poop clogs up the chicks vent and prevents her from pooping its called pasty butt. This can be fatal. Clean the chicks butt off under warm water. Do not pick off the dry poop clump as you will definitely pull out the feathers and might cause her delicate bum skin to tear. Soak it off gently. Dry, then apply olive oil to vent and bum to prevent poop from smelling.

Check that the brooder is an appropriate temperature. You should add probiotics to the chicks feed or give small amounts of plain yogurt with active cultures. Keep watch the next few days as it often takes a few days to go away.

Coccidiosis: a parasitic infection of the digestive tract. Contagious. Can be fatal. Often indicated by reddish or bloody poop. Many people give medicated chick starter to avoid this problem. If you choose to not feed medicated feed (I don't) add a little ACV to the chicks water to help prevent coccidiosis.

If you suspect your chick has coccidiosis separate the affected chicks into a different brooder. Give chicks plain yogurt with active cultures along with their chick feed and ACV in their water.

Shipping stress:You can add Sav-A-Chick to the chicks water when you first get them to give them an electrolyte and vitamin boost. Or add a little sugar or molasses to their water when you first get the chicks to give them a little calorie boost.

Make sure they're warm and comfortable and don't handle them much in the first few days till they get used to their new home and environment.

Make sure you get the right feed for your chicks, they right feed for chicks from day old to 4 or 6 weeks is Starters feed.

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FREE RANGE CHICKEN FARMING

There are many type  in which we can raise chicken , free range type is one of them ,will be discuss free range on this article.

Free-range chickens are birds that are provided regular access to the outdoor and moving freely with an abundance of sunshine, fresh vegetation, and room to maneuver. Moreover, these chickens are not fed with any chemicals (antibiotics or unnecessary medicines) of any sort. Federal ordinances forbid the use of hormones in raising pork and poultry.

The animal’s organic forage cannot contain animal by-products, antibiotics or genetically engineered cereals. Also, the food must not be grown using tenacious pesticides or chemical fertilizers. It solely means that the chickens are permitted to wander freely and devour food that is native to their diet.
Farming of such chickens is known as free-range chicken farming. Young chickens experience fresh pasture and are not bound in any way. The eggs produced by free range chickens have a much greater nutritional content than the eggs bought from stores. Free-range eggs carry double the amount of Vitamin E and six times the amount of vitamin A.
They also contain limited saturated fat and four times the omega-3 fatty acids. The cholesterol content is half as much as eggs laid by hens raised in factories and shelters. If you consume the meat of free-range chickens, it considered much more nutritious than the meat of factory raised chickens There are several reasons why people opt for free range chicken farming these days.

Some of the reason are listed Bellow.

1.Endless supply of high-quality food Free range chickens give you an unlimited quantity of high-grade food. Since these chickens are raised in a natural environment and not fed unwanted chemicals, the eggs laid by them are rich in nutrition, and their meat is also very healthy.

2. Less space requirement Since these chickens wander in the open during most of the day, they do not require large spaces for living. An individual living in an apartment can also purchase a portable chicken coop and raise free-range chickens. All you need to do is take them out in the open for food, water, and the sunshine.

3. Low maintenance cost Free-range chickens depend on natural vegetation for food and hence their maintenance cost is low. No chemicals or chicken food is required to raise them, resulting in limited spending.

4. Reduced chance of diseases Since the chickens are not caged together or held in a coop, there are minimal chances of them getting a contagious disease.

Helpful tips for free range chicken farming

If you are planning to take the free range chicken farming route, here are some helpful tips for you:

1. Buy high-quality chickens from a certified dealer The first and the most important step in free-range poultry farming is purchasing chickens from a certified dealer. Carefully examine the breed you want to raise and ensure that it is free of any disease.

2 . Take excellent care of the chickens until they mature Keep the chicks inside a brooder till they have reached a growth period where they are ready to be brought out into the open.

3 . Build a protective fence around their roaming area Design a fenced area where the chickens may wander freely. Ensure that you keep it reasonably high to prevent the entrance of domestic hunters like cats. It does not have to be big space, but make sure that it is sufficient for the numbers of chicks that you are raising.

4. Built a coop on the fenced area Remember to build a coop in the fenced-in area for basic shelter for the chickens. During the rainy climate, the chickens may be forced to house themselves to stay warm. Also, always keep some feed in the coop even if the birds are being motivated to gather food on their own.

5. Keep them safe from domestic predators Assess the area thoroughly before your chickens set out on their journey out in the open. Ensure that the area is free from native predators like cats and dogs. Free range chicken are of great good to you, they provide your healthy meet and eggs, they can also be sources of income if you can manage it well.

HOW TO KEEP CHICKEN BABY CHICKS HEALTHY NATURALLY

Raising baby chicks and growing your own eggs (among other foods) is a great way to know where your food is coming from .
But Many people are reluctant to get started because they’re worried about how to go about it. First, whatever you do as a thoughtful, caring person will be infinitely better than what happens to a battery hen. Secondly, if you want to raise baby chicks naturally I have put together a guide for you.
These guides will help you to be more confident when you get started with your first chicks.

1.  Where to get chicks

. There are a number of places you can find chicks but the local farm store is probably the most easy and most popular place. Other choices are a local homesteader, a breeder (online or locally) or from a friend.   Read this post to learn more about where to get your chicks and the pros and cons of each method.

2Should I get my chicks vaccinated?

There are two main vaccines for chicks, Marek’s and Coccidiosis. The Hatching House vaccinates for Marek’s disease but not Coccidiosis. If you want them not to vaccinate for Marek’s you can request that. For my small backyard flock I don’t think either vaccine is always necessary. You can always check your local agricultural extension office for the scoop on how prevalant Marek’s disease is in your area. I allowed the Marek’s vaccine however, since I didn’t have time to figure out if it was a problem here. The Coccidiosis vaccine is one I don’t believe I’ll ever get for my chicks. it is a live vaccine (not weakened) and may actually cause illness. Again, for a small backyard flock I don’t believe this is necessary when keeping the brooder and coop clean and dry works as excellent prevention. Also, you can prevent cocci with medicated feed if you want (I don’t). If you do get a cocci vaccinated chick, don’t feed them medicated feed because it can nullify the vaccine (more on that in the feed section).

4 When to buy chicks ?

If you’ve decided to try raising baby chicks you may be wondering when you should jump in. When you choose to order or pick up your chicks is up to you. Warm period is perfect time to raise chicks. I have always waited until around may to get my chicks because it’s warmer out and I don’t like to keep the chicks inside any longer than necessary.  In a warmer climate you may choose to get chicks earlier because then you’ll get eggs sooner (chickens begin laying at around 6 months old). 

5. Brooder (their house)

The first thing you’ll need before you bring your chicks home is a brooder. This is basically just a container for the chicks to live in until they move outside. When it comes to size there are differing rules of thumb. Some say 6 sq. ft per bird others say 2 sq. ft. You’ll see that chicks grow awfully fast and that the more room you can give them the better. I think at least 1 sq. ft per bird is good. I’ve used cardboard boxes in the past when we only got 4-6 chicks at a time but this year used a large round container we found in the barn for our 12 new chick. You can buy containers that are made specifically for brooding chicks like this one. The best choice if you are going with more than 6 chicks is something without 90 degree angles (like the one I linked above) as chicks can pile on top of each other and get squished in the corner.

.6. Bedding

When you get your brooder container you’ll need to add some bedding to absorb the poop and smells. The easiest choice is pine shavings or saw dust ,which you can get at your local farm supply store and saw mailers.

7. Netting

For top Like I said earlier, those little ladies will grow fast and will start trying to jump out and fly out of their brooder. The best way to deal with this is placing a netting material over the top so that they have air flow and light but can’t get out. We used something like this one.  Where’s their forever home? Also consider where they’re going after the brooder, they grow fast. If you don’t have a place already set up for your chickens you’re going to need to hustle to get it ready in the next few weeks. that’s why I always recommend having a coop ready or almost ready before bringing home your chicks.

8. Food (feed )

Raising baby chicks naturally is going to rely heavily on your feeding practices. If you buy cocci vaccinated chicks you must feed them a non-medicated feed. I go with organic chick starter/grower crumbles and feed the chicks that until they are about 5.5 months old. Then I feed an organic layer pellet. Another option is to go with a starter mash until about 6 weeks then switch to the starter/grower crumbles. You can mix yuor own feed but that’s more of an advanced feat to take on. To cut costs ,You can feed kitchen scraps and foraged feed as much as possible. I put their food into a chick feeder to avoid them climbing in and pooping in the food or scratching it out all over the place. You can buy a plastic piece for the food or just use a quart mason jar like I do.

9. Water

Chicken Chicks need lots of clean water. Be sure to get a chick water plate with cover so that your chicks don’t fall in and drown.  9. Power water For new chicks just arrived (or at any other time they might be extra stressed) you will need to mix up some power water ( vitamin drugs and antibiotics drugs) or you need to add a clove of garlic (crushed), a tablespoon of raw honey, and a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (ACV) to a quart of fresh water. Make sure you change this out daily for the first few days. The garlic is antimicrobial and an immune booster, the ACV is antiseptic as well and contains some probiotics while the honey gives the chicks a boost of energy.

.10. Grit

Chicken grit is small rocks that chickens swallow that help them to “chew” their food. Many experts say that if you’re feeding a commercial feed like a mash or a crumble (or even a pellet) there’s no reason to give grit as it breaks down easily. This may be true but I feel like there is no harm in providing grit so why not? Also, if you’re going to give anything other than commercial feed like grass or other greens, or kitchen scraps you must provide grit. There are 3 different kind of feeds you can buy to feed your chicks from day olds to adult 1. starter 2.grower and 3.layer. Starter is good for chicks in the first 6-10 weeks or so. Check the bag for exact age but don’t worry too much about it. If your chicks go outside they are likely picking up their own grit as well.

11. Temperature

When it comes to raising baby chicks the temperature may be the most important aspect. Baby chicks need to be kept warm and can chill easily. A chicken’s normal body temperature is actually around 105-107 degrees F. A baby chicks body temp is about 103.5 F when it’s born. They need to be kept very warm! Many people use heat lamps for this task. I have never used a heat lamp. I use the Brinsea Eco Glow which I feel is much safer and easier to use. The idea is that the Eco Glow acts like the mother, a warm place chicks can go under when they are cold. Chicks will naturally spend more time away from their heat source (mom or the Eco Glow) as they get older and begin growing feathers. It works out really well because there’s no need for a thermometer to check the temp or to be super vigilant about whether the heat lamp is too close or too far. As long as it’s over 50 degrees in the room the chicks are in the Eco Glow is plenty for them. It’s also great because there is no light to bother the chicks when they are sleeping. It feels like the next best thing to a broody hen! Remember, always have the brooder set up before picking up your chicks! Fill your container about 8 inches deep. this way you won’t have to add more later when the poop starts piling up (the chicks will scratch around and turn the bedding to keep it fresh). For the first week however many people place paper towels over the shavings to deter the chicks from eating the bedding which could be dangerous to them (though I’ve noticed mine eating a piece here and there and nothing has happened). Place paper towel over shavings. Fill water (ad power water ingredients if you want), put water on a small piece of wood to stabilize it (but be sure it’s low enough for the chicks to reach).   Fill food. Put this on small block of wood too if you can. Turn on heat source before going to pick up your chicks! When your chicks arrive home: Dip beak in water as you place them in brooder so they know where the water is. Observe to make sure everyone is eating, drinking, and pooping. Watch behavior. Leave them alone at first but then handle them gently but often. This is so they aren’t afraid of being handled. it makes life easier later. Raising baby chicks: What to look out for Though raising baby chicks is pretty straight forward, there are a few thing you need to watch out for. Anytime your chicks are acting strange or sick it’s a good idea to investigate. Here are two big things to look out for. Coccidiosis This is what you’ve either chosen to vaccinate against or not. Symptoms according to The Poultry Site: Droopiness and listlessness Loss of appetite Loss of yellow color in shanks, pale combs and wattles Huddling or acting chilled, Blood or mucus in the feces Diarrhea Dehydration Death  If you suspect cocci, separate the chick right away and follow the directions in this post for treatment. Separate the chick Pasty butt Pasty butt is basically just poop stuck over the vent, though the chick may also become listless or otherwise look unwell. If you notice pasty butt you must act right away because if a chick can’t poop it could die. If you follow these steps, your chicks will be healthy and perfect.

7 BENEFITS OF RAISING BACKYARD CHICKEN AND TURKEY

Backyard chickens!  Backyard chicken are often not in the backyard always.  Sometimes they’re in the side yard, the front yard, even inside the house. Wherever you keep your chicken,  they are so much fun to have around and have so many wonderful uses and benefits, I can’t imagine my homestead without a flock of backyard chickens and turkey.

When I first got chickens I was so scared that I would mess up. What I realized was that I was definitely going to mess up, but anything I could do with good intentions would be better for the chickens than a life in a factory farm. So I learned as I went and am so glad I gave it a try because there are so many amazing benefits in having backyard chickens!

These are 7 reasons you should also have backyard chickens and turkey.

1. Production fresh and healthy meat

Getting fresh and healthy meat is one of the good side of having backyard chickens and turkey, we all eat meat and most of us love eating chicken meat, when you have your backyard chickens, it make it possible and easy to get your fresh and healthy meat from your chicken and turkey.

2. Production of fresh eggs.

Eggs are a cheap form of protein especially when they are fresh from your healthy flock, they are even more nutritious (and delicious!). A study found that the vitamin A, E, and fatty acid (like omega-3) content of pastured eggs was much higher than conventional eggs.

But at $6 a dozen for pastured chicken eggs you’re better off growing your own, especially if you find creative ways to feed your flock for less (or zero).

3.  Educating your children

There’s something profound about a child fully understanding where their food comes from. I think it’s funny when adults assume that I don’t let my kids know that chicken does indeed come from chickens. I mean, I do get it, that may have been me a number of years ago, worried that the truth would scar them.

However, we decided that if we were going to have livestock we would not hide what that means from our kids. If we are going to eat it, it’s important that we know where it comes from. I want my kids to be grateful for their food, and I feel that gratitude begins by knowing that it doesn’t just come from a shelf at the store.

It’s also really great to watch your kids learn through farming. OG knows so much about science just by observing her backyard chickens. She knows that baby chicks come from eggs, but baby people don’t come from eggs. She knows that they stay warm because of their feathers. She knows that foxes like to eat chickens! It’s amazing what they can learn through immersion.

She also learns about responsibility and what it means to care for someone or something else.

4. Helping in cleaning of your garden

Chickens are excellent help in the garden. I’ve let my backyard chickens run through the garden at different times of the season for different kinds of help.

I don’t let them in the garden when new plants are growing because they’ll decimate them, but I have let them in the garden once the plants are large enough to not be killed easily. The chickens may take a few bites of kale but they’ll also eat the bugs that might otherwise eat the garden.

You do have to be careful doing this because you’ll be surprised what your chickens will eat. If you’re concerned they’ll eat too much, you can just let them into the garden at the beginning and end of the growing season to get bugs and pests at that time. I’ve done it this way too and found it very helpful in keeping pests down.

Chickens will also help till. If you put your chickens into the garden just before planting they can help loosen the top layer of soil. They can also till in any soil amendments you need added to your soil.

Their manure helps fertilize the garden and they can eat weeds, so the garden gets manured and weeded whilebackyard chickens get fed, win-win!

5. Free Fertilizer

No need to go and buy manure for your garden, just head to the compost pile! In our current coop we use the deep litter method, which means the manure decomposes in the coop and we add more bedding to continue the decomposition as needed. In the spring we remove the bedding and manure to a compost pile to continue decomposing.

I don’t typically do a hot compost because it takes some attention to get it right (monitoring temperature and water), but a hot compost system would create finished manure in just a few weeks. I usually just let the manure sit until the fall and then throw it on the garden for the following spring.

Additionally, you can let your chickens into the garden to eat bugs and weeds. While they’re at it they’ll manure the garden too!

6. Chicken TV

When you have chickens you don’t need TV! They are so stinkin’ fun to watch. I really can’t explain it, but it’s true. Everyone who has come to visit has mentioned how fun the chickens are to watch. My kids like trying to hold them and pet them too. I think OG feels especially proud when she’s able to catch one, so there’s another benefit!

7 Self Sustainability

With chickens and eggs right in your backyard you can theoretically keep yourself in chicken and eggs indefinitely. Not to mention you’re eliminating the fossil fuels needed to transport chicken and eggs to the grocery store for you.

I always like knowing that if we’re snowed in, or there’s a flood or something else that keeps us from leaving our home, we at least have eggs (and usually much more via the garden).

These benefits are many but these are 6 we can discuss for now, you too can try to raise backyard chickens in your compound, is so fun and profitable.

CAUSES, TREATMENT AND CARE FOR BUMBLE FOOT IN CHICKEN

There are many infection that can infect your chicken , we will discuss Bumble foot on this blog. Bumble foot is the term used to describe an infection on a chicken’s foot; it is referred to as “plantar pododermatitis” by medical professionals. Bumblefoot is characterized by swelling, sometimes redness and often a characteristic black or brown scab on the bottom of the foot. Left untreated, serious cases of bumble foot can be fatal as the infection can spread to other tissues and bones.

THESE ARE CAUSE OF BUMBLE FOOT

Bumblefoot results when the skin of the foot is compromised in some way, allowing bacteria to invade the foot, causing infection. Broken skin allows bacteria (e.g.: staphylococcus) to get inside the foot, which leads to a pus-filled abscess. The entry point for bacteria can be a cut, scrape, injury or breakdown of the skin from walking on wet, dirty bedding. Injuries can result from a splintered roost or repetitive, heavy landings from heights, particularly in heavy breeds and obese chickens. My unscientific opinion is that most bumblefoot infections result from small cuts or scrapes acquired during normal, scratching and foraging. Whatever the cause, failure to treat it can result in the spread of the infection to the bones and tendons, debilitating pain and death.

PREVENTION AND DETECTION OF BUMBLE FOOT

Preventative measures should be taken to avoid bumblefoot as treatment is painful and time-consuming and eradicating it, difficult. Regular flock foot inspections are highly recommended to detect infections at the earliest possible stage.  The bird in the following photo is a bumblefoot frequent-flyer. She was not limping despite the awful-looking scab. The lesion was discovered during a routine exam. Chickens require a complete, balanced diet to avoid vitamin deficiencies and obesity that put them at risk of contracting bumblefoot. Laying hens need a complete layer ration with an additional calcium source such as crushed oyster shells or egg shells available to them in a separate hopper. Treats, snacks and kitchen scraps should not comprise more than 5-10 percent of a flock’s daily dietary intake so as not to disrupt the nutritional balance carefully calculated in commercial layer feeds and to avoid obesity. Roosts should be splinter-free and less than eighteen inches from the floor. Coop litter should be kept dry and clean. Consider using sand instead of pine shavings or straw in the coop and run. Any spills drain away from the surface of sand quickly, sand is not as hospitable to bacterial growth as other litter types and it coats and desiccates droppings, which results in cleaner feet. The most common behavioral symptoms of bumblefoot include limping and lameness. By the time a chicken is seen limping, the infection has ordinarily been festering for quite some time. Examination of the foot pad may reveal redness, swelling and either a callous-looking lesion, a lump between the toes or a black scab on the foot pad. The following is not professional veterinary or medical advice. It is based on my experience as a backyard chicken-keeper and is shared knowing that without it, some pets may suffer unnecessarily or perish from the inability to obtain professional veterinary care.

TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR BUMBLE FOOT

1.Mild cases can take a ‘wait and see’ approach but they tend to get worse. Some cases can be treated with the removal of the scab and the application of Vetericyn 2-3 times a day until healed, but most cannot. or 2) Remove the scab and underlying infected tissue as detailed below.

BUMBLEFOOT SURGERY

Ideally, a chicken with bumblefoot will be treated by a poultry veterinarian. I do not have a poultry vet locally and the following procedures are the ones I use on my chickens’ bumblefoot infections. As unpleasant as the procedure is for me, I am always mindful that if I do not treat them, they will suffer. When the alternatives to not treating the bird are pain, death from the infection or euthanasia, I opt for treating my birds myself. The procedure is not complicated or technically challenging, but it can be time consuming and emotionally taxing to perform this graphic procedure on one’s pet. It generally takes about an hour to complete and while it can be done by one person, two makes it much easier. I find that performing this procedure is best done at the kitchen sink where adequate lighting, counter space and a water source are available. PAIN There is no question that this procedure is painful. My chickens appear to tolerate this procedure well, however, chickens do not react to or express pain in ways we are accustomed to expect: crying, wincing, cringing, whimpering, etc. While the bird remains stoic throughout the procedure, the calm demeanor is thought to have evolved as a defense mechanism for self-preservation in the wild so as not to attract attention from predators. The bumblefoot removal procedure is indeed painful for chickens, however, local anesthetics should only be administered by a veterinarian. (veterinarians can perform a nerve block with .5 to 1.0 ml 2% lidocaine/2% injectable) My dog’s vet prescribed meloxicam, brand name Metacam® for me to keep on-hand for pain relief, which is safe for use in chickens. (The dosage is .5mg/kg  After weighing the bird, this calculator calculates the amount for the chicken’s weight.) I give my chickens a dose thirty minutes prior to the procedure. I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and stocked with: Vetericyn VF, Betadine, triple antibiotic ointment, vitamins & electrolytes, sterile scalpels, non-stick gauze pads, Vetrap, tweezers, disposable gloves, Epsom salt, chlorhexadine 2% solution and scissors.

PREPARATION & EQUIPMENT

The supplies and equipment used include: several large towels, gloves, Vetrap, scalpel or biopsy punch, paper towels, chlorhexadine 2% solution spray,  Vetericyn spray or triple antibiotic ointment & non-stick gauze. All of the supplies are available online at the affiliate links provided and many are commonly found in drugstores or supermarkets. Infection control is of the utmost importance at every stage of this procedure. The sink is sanitized with a chlorhexadine 2% solution spray or bleach and water solution and sterile instruments are used. Gloves are worn to protect the bird and the operator as staph infections can be contracted by humans.The following is my YouTube video of bumblefoot surgery from start to finish.

SOAK

The affected foot is soaked in warm water and Epsom salt or warm water and Betadine and scrubbed for a general cleaning and to soften up the foot tissue. Chlorhexadine 2% solution spray is then applied to kill bacteria remaining on the surface of the foot. Very mild cases of bumblefoot may then be treated by excising the scab with a scalpel, applying chlorhexadine or Vetericyn to the abscess, covering with non-stick gauze and wrapping the foot with Vetrap. Vetericyn is re-applied two to three times a day and covered until healed. Not all cases of bumblefoot respond to this superficial treatment, however. Stubborn or more advanced abscesses are surgically removed. In some instances, antibiotics (such as Tylan 50 or oxytetracycline 200 mg intramuscular injections ) may be necessary, however none of my bumblefoot cases have required antibiotics in order to heal.

WRAP THE LEG

When surgical removal is necessary, after the foot is cleaned the bird is wrapped very loosely in a towel, covering its head and eyes, ensuring ample breathing room. This keeps the bird immobilized and calm. It is laid on the work surface, on its back with the affected foot facing towards the operator. It helps to have assistant holding the chicken in place gently and securely. Talking to the chicken throughout the procedure can be reassuring to both the bird and the operator. Vetericyn VF is again applied to the foot. Some oozing blood is expected, but not ghastly amounts. Dabbing the blood with paper towels helps create a clearer view of the work area. The object is to locate the heart of the abscess or dead tissue, which is commonly referred to as the “kernel,” core” or “plug.” The plug consists of dehydrated pus that has solidified- it often looks like a waxy, dried kernel of corn. Healthy tissue inside the foot is soft, pliable and pink. A solid kernel is not always present, in which case, the infection appears as stringy, slippery bits of thread-like, whitish/yellowish tissue. Using a scalpel or biopsy punch, the foot pad is cut into around the circumference of the scab, straight down into the foot. A biopsy punch acts like an apple corer, removi (I’m not a fan of the biopsy punch method.)  If using a scalpel, the task is a bit more tedious as live tissue is teased away from the abscess little by little. The scab itself is often attached to the abscess and can helift the core out of the foot with the aid of a dry paper towel.

FINISHING UP & BANDAGING 

In cases where there is no central core or kernel, deciding when to end the procedure can be challenging. The stringy bits of tissue are extremely difficult to remove and it rarely seems as if it has all been removed. When it is determined that most of the tissue that can be removed has been removed, the foot is then prepared for bandaging. Chlorhexadine spray is used to sanitize the area one last time, then a triple antibiotic ointment is liberally applied to the open wound a 2” x 2” square of non-stick gauze is placed over the wound. The four corners of the gauze are folded in towards the center of the square, creating a smaller square, which creates a little bit of pressure to the area to stem any residual bleeding or oozing and keeps the antibiotic ointment in place. The gauze is kept in place with Vetrap, which is a self-adhesive bandaging material that is lightweight, flexible and requires no tape to stay securely in place. It is not sticky or gluey and it stays secure even under normal scratching and roosting activities. It is important not to pull the Vetrap too tightly as it can cut off circulation to the foot.  One, six inch strip of Vetrap cut lengthwise into three or four smaller pieces is usually sufficient. The first strip of Vetrap is held in one hand, starting at the top of the foot and with the other hand, pulled over the gauze, then around and between the toes. The weaving is repeated with the remaining two strips, ending the wrap around the “ankle” by an inch or so.

OBSERVATION & FOLLOW-UP

The Vetrap remains in place for 24-48 hours after which it is removed to assess the wound. If the gauze has stuck to the wound at all, soaking in warm water loosens it. After the Vetwrap was removed, the gauze showed a little oozing, which is to be expected. The Vetwrap does a great job of keeping the area clean and dry. Stella has been in the coop with the rest of the flock since the surgery. Since the gauze was a little stuck to the wound area, (we had run out of non-stick gauze. oops) we soaked it in Epsom salt water before attempting to remove it. This is exactly how the wound should look three days after the procedure. A new, healthy scab is forming, some of which came off with the removal of the gauze, but it looks healthy. We re-bandaged as described above. The examination is intended to identify any redness, swelling, foul odor, red streaks up the foot and leg or excessive oozing that may indicate a secondary infection that would require treatment antibiotics. If the foot appears to be healing well, the same wound care and bandaging procedure described above is repeated. The bandage remains on the foot for a week to ten days, changing it approximately 48 hours. A new and improved scab will form; it will not be black as the original scab may have been. While injured chickens are ordinarily separated from the flock for their own protection from other flock members, it is not necessary when using Vetrap as the bandage stays securely in place and the wound cannot be accessed by curious birds. This is Phoebe five weeks after her bumblefoot surgery, happily digging in the woods. Back to business as usual and molting hideously.Four days post-op and Stella is out-and-about with the rest of the flock.      

REASON YOUR HEN MAY NOT LAY EGG OR STOP LAYING SUDDENLY

As a poultry farmer that is looking for high eggs production, many of us raise chickens, wait patiently for the first egg to drop, months pass and nothing. Or our hens suddenly stop laying for no apparently reason. Why are we not getting any eggs? Here are a few reasons why your hen may not lay eggs or stop laying suddenly.

1. Daylight and the seasons

In nature chickens only laid eggs in Spring and into the middle of Summer. The reason for this is because chickens lay eggs to reproduce and during the Spring and Summer months the weather is good and there is more food available, so conditions are perfect for raising chicks. When the days get shorter the hens' bodies sense the change of season and egg production slows down and stops. Humans have been modifying this behaviour and have been breeding the most prolific layers to ensure year round egg production, but given the chance most hens will still do what nature tell them to. Most hens need a minimum 14-16 hours of light per day to fool their bodies into thinking it's Spring and keep them in production. This could be either natural or electric light or a combination of both. Adding electric light to the coop will help keep your hens in production, but keep in mind that this could shorten the hen's egg laying lifespan. Hens are born with a limited amount of egg cells and once those are spent she'll lay no more eggs. If you do decide to add a light have it on in the mornings, so you don't disrupt the hens' natural roosting behaviour. You do not need a bright light, just enough to read a newspaper by.

2. Stress factor

Stressed hens either lay very strange eggs or no eggs at all. A fright, running out of food and water, disruptions of the pecking order (for example adding a rooster to the flock) and getting moved to a new coop/run all causes stress. When you buy hens and bring them home to a new coop it could take up to 6 weeks before they start laying again. Adding unfiltered Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) will help your chickens deal better with stress. The ratio is 4-5 tablespoons to a gallon water.



3. Incorrect or improper Feeding

The average laying hen's skeleton contains 20g calcium and one egg represents 10% of that. Hens do have calcium reserves stored up in their bodies, but if they do not get enough calcium from their food for their egg shells the stores will get depleted very quickly and they will stop laying. It's important that laying hens get fed either a proper, balanced layer feed (mash or pellets) or a good quality all flock feed with a calcium supplement like oyster shell offered free choice. It is best to offer layer food "free choice" i.e. have the feeders full at all times, to ensure hens get enough food. Keep in mind that the average hen needs 5 ounces of food and 10 ounces of water to produce 1 egg. Feeding too much treats, table scraps and scratch means the hens will eat less of the food they need, so only feed limited amounts of those. Overfeeding scraps and scratch can also cause the hens to get too fat. Overweight hens don't lay eggs.

4.  Molting

Molting is a natural process which allows hens to replace old, worn feather by shedding them and growing new ones. It is usually triggered by day length (shorter days), but it can happen any time of the year. A stressful event can trigger it too. Most hens molt once a year, usually over winter in their second year and it is advisable to let to let your hens molt in their second year. Regrowing feathers takes us much of the body's resources as egg laying does, so during a molt most hens won't lay. A molt usually takes between 2 and 6 months to complete and unfortunately this process cannot be rushed. Some extra protein in their feed will help the hens a lot during this time.

5. Disease and Parasites

Diseases and parasite infestations will cause hens to either lay less or stop laying completely. Good parasite control is important and if a hen shows any sign of disease she should be isolated and treated asap. Some of the most common parasites that can cause a drop in egg production are mites, lice and fleas, which can be controlled by regularly dusting the hens, their coop and run with a good quality poultry dust. Internal parasites to look out for are round worms and tape worms. Deworm the flock every 6 months as a precaution. The withdrawal period for most dewormers are 14 days and the eggs laid during that period should be discarded and should not be incubated. The residue in the eggs causes severely handicapped chicks and most die shortly after hatching.
Diseases that influence egg production are fowl pox, coccidiosis, infectious bronchitis, Newcastle disease, Avian influenza, chronic respiratory infection, fowl cholera and infectious coryza. Most of these diseases can be controlled by vaccinating the flock and maintaining good hygiene practices.

6. Extremes temperature

Too high or low temperatures also affect egg laying. In winter aim to keep the temperature in your coop above 55*F and in summer make sure they have plenty water and shade to help them stay cool. Feed treats like watermelon, make sure the hens have plenty fresh, cool water to drink and put a fan in the coop if possible.


7. Broodiness

When hens go broody their hormones tell them to stop laying eggs and incubate and hatch them instead. They will sit in the nest box all day and night, refuse to get up and steal other hens' eggs if given the opportunity. Unwanted broodiness a nuisance, but there are techniques to "break" them and get them back into production.

8. The hen's age

Hens that won't lay can either be too young or too old.
The average age of a hen when she starts laying is 6 months. Some smaller breeds like Leghorns, Stars and Australorps lay sooner and larger breeds like Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks and Orpingtons start later. The first 2 years of a hen's life is her most productive. By the time she's 5 years old she will only lay half as frequently as she did during her first 2 years. Good egg laying hens have 2 egg laying cycles of 50-60 weeks each. After that there will be a sharp decline in egg production.

A good sign of a pullet approaching lay is the colour of her comb. If her comb turns a bright red colour she's ready. The reason for the colour change is to show the rooster that she is ready to start laying fertile eggs. Her pelvis will be wider and if you look at her vent it will be moist and pink.
There is also a simple test you can do to check if your hen is laying/ready. Hold the hen firmly and turn her on her back. Put your fingers on her breast bone and work your way down to her vent area. You should feel 2 bones sticking up. These are her pelvic bones. If you can fit only 1 finger upright between her pelvic bones she's still roughly 4 weeks off laying, 1 and 1/2 fingers means she's a little closer, 2/3 weeks and 2 or more fingers means she's either close to or laying already.
These are few reason why your hen may not lay eggs or stop laying. If you observed any of these listed reasons ,please make correction immediately.