WHAT IS MAREK'S, SIGN OF MAREK'S AND HOW TO PREVENT MAREK'S IN POULTRY BIRDS

My goal in this article is to quickly educate you about the key points of Marek's disease without overwhelming you with superfluous information.

All information I'm providing here has been carefully researched and double checked with a poultry farmers. Although I have made every effort to provide accurate information, some may still be inaccurate. If you have any corrections, please you are free to do so.

1. What is Marek's? 

Marek's disease is a form of herpes virus that can infect domestic poultry and a few wild birds. In chickens, the virus can rapidly cause cancer to grow all through the chicken, most commonly in the nerves, organs, and feather follicles. The virus is spread through chicken dander and is extremely contagious. If one of your chickens has Marek's, you can be certain that the rest have been exposed and are carriers. Wind and wild animals can carry Marek's for miles. Because the disease is so contagious, Marek's is considered ubiquitous worldwide. You should assume that every chicken is infected with Marek's unless it has been raised in a completely biosecure environment--nearly impossible for backyard chicken keepers. Marek's is not contagious to humans and a Marek's infected bird is perfectly safe to eat. In fact, you have probably eaten numerous Marek's chickens already. However, it's still probably not a good idea to eat a chicken that looks sick, since it's possible the chicken has another infection that could make you sick.

2. What are the symptoms of Marek's in birds ?

In many cases, Marek's causes no signs or symptoms. A bird with natural/genetic resistance can live a perfectly healthy life. This is why you must assume that every chicken has Marek's. There's simply no way to tell. However, in unvaccinated birds with no natural resistance, the virus can kill between 60%-100% of a flock. Keep in mind that Marek's symptoms will only begin to show up weeks or months after the bird is infected. Most commonly a hen will begin showing symptoms around the time when she begins laying, with roosters showing signs when they are slightly older. However, if a chicken's immune system becomes compromised, the symptoms may show up later or earlier. In most cases, a chicken who lives at least one year with no symptoms will never show symptoms, even though it is a carrier.
The most common sign of Marek's is a chicken who appears to be paralyzed in one limb, usually one leg. The chicken will likely interact and behave completely normally, except that its leg doesn't work. If your chicken is showing this symptom, it's very likely that it has Marek's. Over time, the paralysis will worsen until the chicken dies of wasting, asphyxiation, or is killed by the rest of the flock. This can be heartbreaking to watch. Other common symptoms include: Ocular degeneration. The iris may lose its color and turn blue, or become misshapen. The bird may become blind. This is probably the second most common form of the disease. General neurological impairment. The chicken may stagger, act dizzy, or generally show signs of weakness or confusion. Poor growth or frequent illness. The disease weakens the chicken's immune system and makes it more susceptible to all diseases. Wasting away. The chicken may begin losing weight rapidly as its organs are consumed by tumors, and may become thin and weak. Tumors on the skin and feather follicles. Note that it is very difficult to diagnose Marek's without a necropsy, since it can mimic other diseases. A blood test is usually not worthwhile, since most chickens will show positive. In my personal opinion, it's generally not worth the money of getting a firm diagnosis; I prefer to diagnose based on symptoms. Others would disagree with me and say that you should at least test the first chicken you lose to make sure it's Marek's and not some other disease that could be treated.

3. Is there any way to prevent Marek's?

There is no any, Sort of! Other than extreme biosecurity measures, there's no way to prevent a chicken from becoming infected. However, vaccination can give your chicks a better chance of surviving when they do become infected--survival in adequately vaccinated and quarantined chickens is approximately 90-95% (although success of the vaccine has been decreasing in recent years as the virus mutates). Vaccination will not expose your existing flock to the disease. The vaccine that's typically used is actually a turkey form of the virus. It does not cause any symptoms in your vaccinated chickens, and will not cause the chickens to spread the virus. It just gives them a better chance of surviving if they are exposed. If a vaccinated bird is exposed, it will become a carrier, even if it shows no symptoms. Vaccination should be done inside the egg or during the chick's first day after hatching for the best protection. This will help build the chick's immunity before it is exposed to the disease. Vaccination starts a race between the chick's immune system and exposure to the virus. After vaccination, it takes anywhere from 10 days to 5 weeks for the chicken to build adequate immunity. In other words, it's important to quarantine your new chicks for no less than 10 days, but preferably 5 or 6 weeks after vaccination. This will allow them to build immunity before being exposed to the virus. During quarantine, it's important to have very good biosecurity. You must keep vaccinated chicks in a separate location that will not become contaminated with any chicken dander. Since chicken dander may stick to your hair, skin, and clothing, it is a good idea to take a shower and change clothing and shoes before interacting with the vaccinated chicks or entering the quarantine area. Now, there may be some good reasons not to vaccinate. For example, a meat bird will likely be butchered before it shows any symptoms of Marek's. So vaccination of meat birds might be overkill. Some people say that the vaccine may cause the chicks to grow slower and smaller, but I don't believe there are any scientific studies that confirm this. In my opinion, it's still worthwhile to have meat chicks vaccinated. Another reason not to vaccinate is if you are intentionally trying to breed a Merek's resistant flock of birds. Some breeders have reported doing this successfully.
This is out of reach for most back yard chicken keepers, since roosters are not allowed in most urban areas. Finally, there is some evidence that the vaccine can cause the virus to mutate into a more virulent (deadly) form over time. I have no opinion on this, as I think the research is not yet clear. Given that Marek's is a horrible cancer and wasting disease that can easily kill most of a flock, I personally believe that vaccination is worthwhile in all but a few special cases. I will make sure all of my future birds are vaccinated.

4. What you should do as a poultry farmer if any of your birds is showing signs of Marek's?

First thing to do,   DO NOT PANIC
2. Acknowledge that you will lose some birds to the disease, perhaps most or all of your birds if your flock is not vaccinated. In most cases, once symptoms show, the disease will only get worse and worse until the chicken starves to death or asphyxiates. In my opinion it is much better to put the chicken out of its misery while it still has a reasonable quality of life. Further, since chickens who are showing symptoms are likely shedding more of the virus, it's probably a good idea to cull sooner rather than later.
3. Decide how you will manage the disease going forward. A Marek's infection doesn't mean the end of your chicken keeping days. For backyard keepers, I recommend continuing business as usual, while keeping an eye out for sick birds and culling when appropriate. I do not recommend culling your whole flock and attempting to disinfect your yard and start over. This requires special virucides, and in most cases a backyard keeper will not be able to adequately disinfect their entire yard. Furthermore, any new flock will likely be contaminated anyway by neighboring chickens, wild birds, or even just the wind. So a mass culling and sterilization would likely not help anything. As a poultry keeper i believe the best approach to managing a Marek's infection in a backyard flock is to (1) cull sick birds as necessary
(2) vaccinate and properly quarantine all birds you acquire in the future, and
(3) never to give or sell your birds without informing the buyer that they are a carrier for Marek's. Finally, please be aware that you may spread the disease to other flocks on your clothing, shoes, hair. Please take adequate precautions to prevent spreading the disease to other flocks or to the other poultry, make sure you wash you hand and others equipment..

HOW TO RAISE DUCKS FOR THE BEGINNERS

Ducks ???, Many poultry bird farmers mostly concentrated on chicken and turkey but there is the wonderful and money making bird call duck which many poultry farmers have not yet tap into, ducks are friendly and profitable birds which is raise for meat or as a pet.

These are some basics information on raising ducks. This information is based on Guide to Raising Ducks and information from backyard chicken and turkey Farm. This is not meant to provide emergency care only very basic information.

1. Be prepared and have everything set up prior to the arrival of the ducks .

A brooder Something as simple as a cardboard box may be used as a brooder. Plastic totes, bathtubs, and wooden boxes can also be used. You can line the bottom of the brooder with plastic sheeting (if brooding indoors) this will help with cleanup. Put down a layer of bedding several inches thick. Pine shavings or straw are good and readily available. You can add pine pellet horse stall bedding to help with wet spots. Avoid slick material like newspaper. Paper towels can be placed over the bedding for the first few days. Watch the ducklings to ensure they are not eating bedding materials. Most will “taste” the bedding but not actually swallow it. Wet spots should be removed and bedding replaced every day. If using shavings, avoid adding large amounts while the ducklings are in the brooder as shavings are very dusty. Cedar shavings should be avoided as they can give off fumes due to the heat lamp.

2. Heat
.
Ducks need a brooder that is about 90° for the first week and then the temperature should be lowered by 5° each week afterwards. Once the temperature in the brooder is the same as the environment (inside or outside) the heat source can be removed. A thermometer is a great investment for someone new to brooding. The heat lamp should be placed so that the ducklings can get away from the heat if needed. Overheating is just as dangerous as chilling for the ducks.

3. Feeders and waterers

Feeders and waterers should be placed at the perimeter of the heat source. Ducklings may not go to eat and drink if the area is too hot or too cold. d, Water Ducks need to have constant access to water whenever feed is available. They need to be able to wash their eyes and nares (nostrils) to remove dust or debris. A chick waterer can be used for the first week or so but they will quickly outgrow it. Adding large marbles to the base of the waterer will help to keep the babies out of the water. A non-spill waterer can be easily and cheaply made. A gallon milk jug or shallow food storage container can be used. Simply cut a hole at the height of the ducklings back that is large enough for them to fit just their entire head in. These will need to be replaced on a weekly basis as the ducklings outgrow them. A platform can be fashioned out of a container covered in hardware cloth so the splashing of the waterer is contained there. Place the waterer in the brooder in advance so that the water is room temperature. When the ducklings arrive, dip each of their beaks in the water and ensure that they swallow. Ducklings should not be allowed to get and stay wet. Extreme care should be taken in allowing them to swim when young. Ducklings easily tire and can drown even in a small amount of water.
A thorough drying is needed if they get wet.

4. Feeding

It is recommended that ducks have feed available 24/7 for the first 2 weeks under certain conditions. However, many people think that two weeks is too young to reduce the time that food and water are available, and recommend waiting till 6 to 8 weeks. Ducks should be fed starter feed with 18-20% protein for the first two weeks. This can be in a crumble form or a mash. Mash should be wet to make it easier to eat. If mash is used, it must be replaced several times a day to prevent spoilage. They can be given chick starter, duck/waterfowl starter, broiler starter, or turkey starter. Care should be taken when feeding a higher protein level feed because it may led to physical damage . For many people, duck specific feed is not available. Many people have good results feeding starter or a feed developed for all ages/species. Layer feed should not be given to growing ducklings as the calcium level is too high and can result in damage or death. An ideal protein feeding schedule is given in the below table .
Again, this is not always a possibility for many people but this blog idea.

Age
0-2 weeks , 8-20%
2-8 weeks , 16 -18 %
8-14 weeks, 15-16%
14 to adult , 16-18%
Medicated feed can be given depending on the type of medication that is used. Medications such as amprolium and zinc bacitracin are not harmful to ducklings. Ducks have a higher body temperature and are not as prone to many illnesses. Coccidiosis is usually not a problem for ducklings unless sanitation is poor. Therefore, feeding medicated feed is not a necessity. Feeders should be shallow for the first few days. Jar lids, egg carton flats or anything that will not tip but is very low will work. Once eating well, they can be switched to troughs. Whole grains should not be given until ducklings are several weeks old. If ducklings are fed chick starter a niacin supplement should be given for the first 10 weeks. Brewer’s yeast can be added to feed (2-3 cups per 10 lbs of feed) or niacin tablets can be added to water (100-150mg per gallon). Grit Ducklings do not need grit if they are fed only commercial feed. If grains or greens are fed, they need appropriate size grit. Invest in a Book Asking questions and getting answers on this blog. http://chickenandsnail.blogspot.com . is a wonderful source of information. But knowledgeable people are not always online to answer emergency questions. Invest in a book geared specifically at raising ducks so that you have it to refer to in an emergency.
However Some people have luck in raising a single duck but ducks need companionship which is best provided by another duckling. Ducks can live up to 15 years and while "right now" you may have the time to devote to a duck it is unlikely that your life won't change in the next 10-15 years. Two ducks will still bond to their owner but they will have each other to spend time with, play with and act like a duck with. g,

5. When can I Release my duck to the garden ?

No. Domestic ducklings raised by people do not possess the skills needed to survive on their own. They have not learned skills from a wild mother that they need to survive and are unlikely to possess migratory instincts, if they can even fly. Here is some info from the El Paso Zoo on reasons they should not be released Domestic ducks can also carry many diseases which wild populations of ducks do not have immunity to and which there is no cure for. New Castle Disease, duck virus enteritis (DVE), fowl cholera, paratyphoid, avian tuberculosis, chlamydiosis, bird flu and West Nile virus are just some of the diseases that domestic ducks can transmit to wild flocks. In 1993, Muscovy ducks, released into the canals in Venice, California, tested positive for duck plague, duck virus enteritis (DVE), a fatal herpes virus spread through feces. Ducks and geese on the canals began to have violent seizures and then died. People were feeding the ducks and geese, which can cause them to have more and larger clutches. The canals had become overpopulated. This leads to stress from too many birds in too small a habitat, resulting in fighting, injuries, death and disease. All the ducks and geese in the canals were rounded up by the California Department of Fish and Game and killed out of fear that some birds might fly to other areas and infect wild flocks. This issue received international attention, when residents tried to save their favorite birds by taking them to secret locations in an attempt to save them. However, it was the release of domestic ducks, compounded by feeding and the resulting overpopulation that was the real tragedy.
Keep it in mind that just because someone has raised ducks it does not make them a duck expert. Some things work for some people/situations and not to others. There are a few basic necessities for ducks.
1. Quality feed,
2. clean water,
3. Secure housing
4. And good sanitation practices are all that is needed to raise healthy happy ducks. Ducks can incubates their eggs on their own and you can also take the eggs to hatchery if you want.

BEST WAYS TO KEEP CHICKEN HEALTHY AND HAPPY

Healthy and happy chicken is the joy of every poultry farmer, healthy chicken brings more profit and rest of mind,  this article will tell you on how you can make your chicken healthy and happy

Here are some ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.

1.Cleaned  coop and environment

Cleaning the coop is very important for keeping happy, healthy chickens. If you don't clean the coop you risk an infestation of lice, mites, and other parasites. Cleaning your coop isn't always easy but it sure is worth it. Start by getting all the bedding from the floor of the coop and the nesting boxes and dumping it. If any eggs have cracked then make sure to clean up that mess too. Then if needed you can scrub any really soiled spots with some soap and water. Dry it then put some fresh shavings in. Don't Use Cedar. It is toxic. (I use pine shavings) Also if you want to you can use a Garden and Poultry Dust to dust the coop and it keeps out parasites. My chickens sometimes perch in the nesting boxes and poop in them instead of laying eggs in them. Clean out the poop in the nesting boxes everyday or when needed. If your chickens (like mine) perch on top of the coop during the day, there will be a lot of poop up there. Scrape it off.

2.Cleaning Feeders and Waterers

Cleaning these out around every two weeks is a good idea. If you have a plastic waterer it gets pretty slimy so you will need to scrub that with some soap and water. If you want to put some Apple Cider Vinegar in the water, but only in plastic waterers not in metal. If there is any poop in the water dump it out and give them some fresh water. Make sure your chickens have fresh clean water at all times. The feeders aren't very dirty unless they have been pooped on or have gotten dirt or something in them. Clean the with soap and water. And make sure you rinse them well.

3. Keeping their Feed Clean

Make sure that you store your feed in places were bugs, mice, and rats wont get into. Plastic containers or metal trash cans work fine. Always make sure that the tops are closed and make sure that the feed inside cant get wet and turn moldy. Make sure there is no poop in the feed (like mice and rat poop).

4.deworming Your Chickens

If you want to deworm your chickens then deworm them if you see any worms in there poop or if your chickens have been around other poultry that has them. There are a lot of different wormers, and you can easily find them in your local store like Tractor Supply or Southern States.

5. Allow your chicken space to move freely

This is a great way for your chickens to get some nutrition by eating fresh bugs and grass. Also getting out in the fresh air is good for them instead up being cooped up in a run. If you cant free range your chickens then instead you could move there pen to a fresh patch of grass (if you have a movable coop) you could also buy a pen and use that for them. They love being able to go run around in a new place.

6. Always protect them from predators
Predators are those animals that can kill or injured your chicken, so you must make sure your chickens are free and save from them to avoid death and injuries. These predators includes rat, snake and others.

These are just a few of the things to keep your flock healthy. There are a lot of ways to help your flock stay happy and healthy but these are the basics. I'm sure you can find other ways too. Reading a searching for ways to keep your flock healthy is a good idea if you want to make sure they get the care they needed and some times you come across something very helpful you didn't expect.

Thank you for checking out this page. If you have any comments or questions feel free to ask me.

MOlTING IN CHICKEN ,(CHICKEN LOOSING FEATHERS) AND WHAT TO DO WHEN IT HAPPEN

Many farmer have encounter this loosing of feathers, call molting, many farmer we ask why is my Chicken Loosing Feathers?

You may wonder why your chicken’s feathers are falling out or why it has bald spots. Don't worry this is a natural cycle that chickens will go through called molting.

When a chicken is molting, it sheds its old warn out feathers and replaces them with new shiny, clean ones. Both hens and roosters will molt.

Reason why Chickens Molt?

Many chickens will molt when there is less hours of day light, their laying cycle has finished, or stressed induced. Molting also gives a chicken’s reproductive system time to rest. This process can be very stressful for chickens so keeping them happy and healthy is very important during this time. Getting new feathers also helps to keep chickens warm in the winter. After molting their hardier and more resistant to disease.

When Will your chicken Molt?

Small Chicks are covered with down so they don’t have any feathers when they hatch. Chicks will have mini molts about four times, when they are 1-6 weeks old, 7-9 weeks old, 12-13 weeks old, and 20-22 weeks old. During the last molt, the tail feathers grow. Fully grown hens and roosters will molt once or twice a year in the spring or fall. This usually last 2-4 months but some chickens are very slow when molting and will take a long time. The hens that molt fast will only take a couple months. Molting usually depends on when a hen started laying. A chick that was hatched seasonally will start molting in March - April and finishes around July.

What are the Causes of Molting in chicken?

There are three main factors that cause molting are:
1 Exhaustion
2. Sickness,
3. When their laying cycle is completed, (that means they are done laying eggs for a while) and reduced lighting.

What to Expect During Molting

Feathers are 80-85% protein and eggs are around 13% protein so your hen has to make a choice to put protein toward molting or laying, there is not enough for both. Because of this, during molting, laying stops in hens and fertility drops or stops in roosters. While molting, chickens tend to look sick or lose weight. Be sure to keep an eye on your birds when they are molting because they lose weight in this process and could lose too much and become sick. When molting make sure you're doing everything you can to keep your bird healthy because their immune system isn’t at its best during this time. Your chickens comb might look very dull and very small when they are molting which is normal. Obviously expect a lot of feather loss. Chickens that are molting can be very moody and annoying.
During molting if your chickens have bare spots others might try to peck at the skin breaking it and causing it to bleed and attract more picking. If they have enough protein this shouldn't be a problem.

What to feed chicken during the Molt

Since feathers have a lot of protein in them, it’s important to give chickens back protein. Some people don’t feed their chickens anything new while their going through the molt while others do. Feeding a high amount of protein like 20% and up or a Game Bird feed is a great idea (because it has a high amount of protein). Feeding this along with regular feed is a good idea. I also give my hens wet cat food, boiled eggs, and meal worms during their molt for some extra protein.

The Process of molting

The feathers that are coming in will push the old ones out. Chickens will start to lose their head and primary wing feathers first then the feather loss works its way down the body. Your birds may have a hard molt or a soft molt. A hard molt is when the feathers drop out very quickly but don't come back for a while. A soft molt is when the feathers drop out and new ones come in soon after. The new feathers that come in are called pin feathers and look like this. Here are the pin feathers. These hold the new feathers until they break through. The hard covering will falls off when the new ones come in.
Molting is normal in chicken so don't panic whenever you notice loosing of feathers in your birds. ​

AVOIDABLE MISTAKES POULTRY FARMER MAKE AND HOW TO FIX IT.

As a poultry  farmer, everyone has made mistakes at one point or another, some of them are harmless, while others can lead to your birds getting seriously injured, or even killed. Hopefully you can learn from some of these common mistakes, and prevent them from happening in your poultry.

1. Not noticing a sick bird in time

It is very important to observe your birds everyday so that you can quickly detect a sick or injured bird, you will notice it in time to to save them from death. Becoming accustomed to your birds normal behavior, and you should also observe them daily is a good idea. All your birds should be active and have nice bright
eyes, healthy red or pink combs, and their feathers should be clean, glossy and well preened.
(Keep in mind that there are exceptions to these last two while your birds are going through their annual molt).

Symptoms of ill birds include:
Moving slowly, and not interested in food or treats
Refusing to come out of the coop in the morning
Not eating or drinking
Huddling on the roost or floor during the day with closed eyes
Head pulled tightly in
Droopy wings and tail
Heavy or strained breathing
Decreased egg production
Straining
Acting lethargic
Ruffled feathers (Keep in mind that hens will sometimes ruffle their feathers when cold)
Pale or purple comb, and wattles
Cloudy, leaky, swollen, or watery eyes
Sneezing, wheezing, or coughing
Swollen legs or feet

When you have a sick or injured bird, it is best to separate it as soon as possible. Inspect the ill birds weight, vent, face, mouth, and nostrils and look it over for blood, scabs, and other signs
of injury..

2. Using toxic chemicals around the coop

You have a rat problem in the coop, and there are some annoying weeds growing in your birds run. Well the right thing to do would be bring out the rat poison, and herbicides ? Wrong! Most chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, and pest poisons, are deadly to your birds. It is best
to avoid using such items around your coop, run, or anywhere that your birds range. Even if you put out rat, or other rodent poisons were you are sure your birds will not get it, your birds may find and eat the dead or dyeing rat, in which case the birds may ingest the poison into your birds
If you spray weeds or grass around your coop. The chemicals can cause illness or death to your birds. It is best to use
such chemicals sparingly and with caution around your poultry.

3. Buying birds from a dishonest chicken breeders  or unknown sources

Buying birds from unknown sources is very risky for poultry  farmer,  The birds you bought  from unknown  source may have health issues or carry deceases that may not be apparent at first. Another reason not to buy birds from unknown sources is to avoid dishonest breeders. While there are a lot of very good breeders with very high quality birds, there are some that either are not knowledgeable about the birds they raise, or just plain deceptive.
When adding birds to your flock, it is a good idea to quarantine them for a little while before adding them to the rest of your the flock. http://chickenandsnail.blogspot.com.

4, Overcrowding and overheating of chicks in their house.

Many people make the mistake of keeping chicks in a small brooder until they are well
feathered out. This is a mistake for many reasons, for one thing, chicks grow very fast, and will outgrow a small brooder (such as a plastic storage tote) very quickly. The general rule of thumb for how much space your chicks will need is a minimum of 1/2 a sq foot for the first week, 1 sq foot for the second week, and than increase that every week by 1 sq foot. (keep in mind that you can get away with slightly less space for bantams, quail, and other small birds,
and you will need slightly more than that for large birds such as turkeys and geese and broiler,   this does not mean that you have to give your birds a bigger brooder each week, but take in to consideration before you purchase your chicks, how much brooder space they will need as they grow.
Observing mother hens has convinced me that baby chicks do not need as much heat as we are often told. I have seen many a mother hen out scratching with her chicks on 20F and 30F degree mornings, and even one hen and her 2 week old chick out eating on a 5F degree morning! Don't get me wrong, chicks do need to be kept warm, but they don't need to roast under a heat lamp,
all the time. Chicks out with a mother hen, would go out and scratch for an hour or two, and than come and warm up before going out to eat and scratch again. As they get older, the time spent out eating and scratching will increase. Chicks that are kept in a heated brooder all the time
have far less tolerance to cold temps, and often are poor winter layers. When setting up or constructing your brooder, make sure that your baby's have a place where thecan get out from under the heat. Observe them closely and make sure they are comfortable. As long as
you are not getting temps 30F's or below, your chicks should be ready to leave the brooder by the time they are fully feathered out.

5, Keeping your birds in a dirty or poorly ventilated dark house. 

This is a common mistake. Keeping birds housed in dirty, poorly ventilated, and dark coops can lead to many health issues such as respiratory problems, mite/lice infestations, higher susceptibility to frost bite, decreased egg production, and a host of other health issues and Diceases. Make sure to keep your bedding clean, and change it often. Make sure your coop
is well ventilated with plenty of air flow. Light is also important. Don't keep your birds cooped up in a dark coop without natural light.

6, Good, clean bedding is a must.

Not predator proofing your coop
Your getting ready to build your coop. Chicken wire is the obvious thing to use right?
Unfortunately it probably is, but it is not the best thing to use. Predators can easily tear through it, and carry off your defenseless birds. While chicken wire is good for interior use, and on coops where predation is not an issue, it is not recommended for exterior use. Hard ware cloth (though more expensive) is much stronger and safer. Keep in mind while building your coop, that almost everything loves a good chicken dinner, so make sure your coop is  predator proof.

7, Not buying/building a big enough coop
Overcrowding can lead to stress, cannibalism, feather pecking, and other issues. Chickens need
a minimum of 4 sq feet each in the coop, and preferably 10 sq feet of run space. Remember this
is a bare minimum, it is best to (if possible) at least double that size. Remember, there is no
such thing as a coop that is too big. You may plan on getting 12 chickens at first, but you may
want to add a few more in the future, so instead of rebuilding a new coop when your flock expands, it's a good idea to build a bigger coop from the start.

8, Not picking the right breed

Poultry  birds are bred for many different purposes, such as meat, eggs, exhibition, etc. Before buying your chicken,  decide why you want chickens. Do you want them for production? Pets? Meat?
Decide carefully on what breeds you want. For example if you want pets, don't buy a breed known for being flighty. Keep climate in mind too, and pick a breed that does well where you live.
Handling your birds is also a good idea to get them accustomed to you
Be prepared At one point or another you may very well end up with a sick or injured bird. When this happens you don't want to be caught unprepared. This is why it is good to have a first aid kit on hand.

I believe this article helps you to have a better experience with your birds! If you have any questions, comments, or would like to add anything to this post,  please do so below

TREATMENT, PREVENTION AND CAUSE OF WRY NECK IN CHICKEN

Before anything, you must know What is wry neck in chicken ?

Wry neck is one of the deadly chicken diesese and is a condition that is often referred to as “crook neck” and it typically affects ducklings and baby chicks, adult birds can also suffer from it if they are being fed an incorrect feed.
Chicken with this disorder cannot hold their heads up on their own and as it progressively gets worse, affected birds start to fall over or lie on their backs unable to walk freely on their own. This can be very distressing for owner and bird. They have no control and can so easily crash and bang into things causing more injury to themselves. I have suffered this my self with my favourite bird and I can certainly say from my own experience it's not pleasant and you often feel helpless as this is not a quick disease to cure. It usualy fatal simply because chicks, ducklings or affected adult birds simply cannot eat or drink any water which means they get dehydrated and if not helped to feed, birds suffering from the condition will starve to death.

Now, What are the causes of Wry neck? The condition can be caused by various things which includes the following:
1. A genetic disorder
2. An injury to the head
3. A vitamin deficiency
4. Ingesting toxins and
5. Botulism

There are some Breeds of chicken which prone to getting this condition Certain breeds are more prone to developing the condition through injuries they get to their heads. This includes both Polish and Silkies because their skulls don't offer the same amount of protection as found in other breeds and due to their head plumage, they are more likely to be pecked on their heads by other birds that live in the same environment. Polish and silkies have vaulted skulls and one peck on the right place can so easily cause this. It is advisable to separate any aggressive birds from a flock if you have either Silkies or Polish chickens running with other breeds. The other reason for bullying and pecking is when too many birds are kept together in the same environment. Over crowding can be a real issue so you have to make sure your birds have enough space to run around. Vitamin deficiency If birds are fed an incorrect diet and in particular one that is vitamin deficient and more especially if it does not contain enough Vitamin E, chickens can develop wry neck. No matter what the cause might be, it is very worth while upping the amount of Vitamin E your birds are receiving in their diet. However, you should not expect immediate results because any treatment will take a few weeks to take effect which is why it's important to start supplementing their feed as soon as possible.
A correct diet should be a good quality flock raiser/layer pellet that has all the nutritional requirements your flock needs. Treats should be limited to no more than 10% of their diet. To build up your flock's Vitamin B1 intake, it's good idea to add a little Brewer's Yeast, sunflower seeds, wheat germ or bran to their diets as all of these are very good, natural sources of the vitamin.

These are what to do to treat wry neck in chicken.

Whatever might has caused the condition, it's important to separate any bird with wry neck from the rest of the flock to avoid them being picked on or trampled. You would need to feed them and to make sure they are drinking enough water. One way of doing this is to soak some bread in fresh clean water before feeding it to the bird – like this you avoid them aspirating the liquid into their lungs which could prove fatal. Non iron Polyvisol for children is also reccomended to boost the chick or duckling during this stressful time, one drop twice per day. Once your bird is seperated keep it quiet to keep the stress levels down. During this difficult time you will need to be there very regular for your bird in order to feed and water him or her. Also don't leave open water in the area you have your bird. As they cannot control what they are doing they can easily become stuck and could possibly drown.

A shallow thin lipped watrerer worked well for the affected bird. Also this was the best way for him to drink as you can control the water and not worry about him drowning. Wry neck is not an easy, straightforward or quick disease to fix. But you have to be prepared for the long haul with any bird suffering from it.

Adding molasses to their diet is also beneficial because it is full of vitamins and valuable nutrients. It's also better to add a natural source of Vitamin E to their diet rather than just the vitamin alone. The reason being that to absorb Vitamin E, it's necessary to add selenium too so the vitamin E can work. Natural sources provide both which makes life a lot easier.

There are quite a few spices that are great sources of both Vitamin E and selenium which include:
Cayenne pepper
Cloves Cumin
Turmeric
Caraway
Cinnamon Other very good and rich sources of Vitamin E can be found in: Alfalfa Dandelion Nettle Raspberry leaf Rose hips Spinach Sunflower seeds Pumpkin seeds Olive oil .

How to prevent wry neck in chicken ?

As with most things that are health related in any animal, prevention is always that much easier than cure and this applies to wry neck in poultry too. Diet is very important, so you need to make sure your flock is getting enough Vitamin E and B1 in their food. You may like to consider supplementing their diet with some great natural sources of these vitamins which not only ensures a healthier flock, but it also adds a lot of variety to their feed. Here are some supplements you can add to your flock to ensure enough vitamins given to your birds always. Making sure chickens are being fed a well balanced diet that contains all the right amounts of vitamins is very important because it reduces the chances of them suffering from wry neck and if you do notice any of your chicks or adult birds are developing the wry neck, the first thing you need to do is up the level of Vitamin E and B1 you are giving them in their diet. You also need to separate any bird with the condition from the rest of the flock to make sure they don't get bullied and so that you can hand feed them, making sure they are drinking enough water too.
Keeping them somewhere that's quiet also helps them to recover as when they are disturbed this causes more thrashing about from the affected bird. It is advisable not to breed from affected birds in case it is genetic. It could be passed to others.

TIPS ON HOW TO RAISE CHICKEN FOR THE BEGINNERS

Raising chicken chicks seems can be very difficult to the beginner. I can say that because I was a beginning homesteader only six and a half years ago! I’m here to tell you my journey through raising chicks and you can do it if you follow the informations on this blog.  Let’s get started.

The first question to ask yourself is , Where do I get my chicks?

You might not believe it, but you can order chicks in the mail! And in any other farm in your area, In my area, Obasanjo farm has chicks year round and Zarteck also have a local farm store that I’ve bought chicks from. I’ve never bought chicks from Tractor Supply but I’ll admit they seem to take better care of their chicks because they have less of them
I feel that some of the employees do not treat the little chick-a-dees well. What I suggest is going to your farm stores early in the morning while they’re opening to see how dedicated they are to cleaning the brooders and keeping the maintenance up for healthy animals.

My local farm store had great chicks and they’re very dedicated to the quality of life and products at their little store. They even have a rabbitry in the back, which is awesome in my opinion! I have to go ahead and tell you that the last two times I bought chicks, I ordered them online. We’ve also bought ducklings online. These are the two stores we’ve purchased baby animals from:

I’ve received healthy animals from both of the above businesses and The Chick Hatchery seems to even give you an extra chick! My friend thinks this is a “insurance policy”. The fact of the matter when other chicks are sometimes you lose one. Most companies will replace dead chicks, but be sure to check the policies before choosing who to use. Also, remember, if you have fertilized eggs you can just hatch your own!

What did you need in order to raise chicken chicks?

The Brooder: Your brooder can be very simple or not. When I started raising chicks I bought a large plastic storage container/Tupperware  and raised the chicks in our spare bedroom. Now we raise our chicks in a wooden brooder I built out in the hen house. The one thing you want to make sure of is that your chicks have enough room. I’m trying to nurse a chick back to health right now from being trampled. If your chicks don’t have enough room they’ll have to fight each other to get to where they’re going and your weaker chicks might die.


Lamp for heat: The heat lamp will be a special lamp you buy from a farm store or online. You’ll need a way to adjust the light closer or further from the chicks, and we’ll go over that in just a moment. I used to use a clear bulb and now I use a red bulb. Using a red bulb heats your area up a little warmer and reduces the risk of your chicks picking their feathers or if wounded, pecking at the open wound. Some even say the red bulb reduces the likelihood of restless chicks. I can’t speak to whether it’s true or not, from my experiences.
Water: You don’t want your waterer to be too ‘open’ because it’ll increase the likelihood of the chicks drowning in it. The first few times I raised chicks I put a few pebbles in the trough and I used this waterer. I’ve personally never had a chick drown, but that doesn’t mean it won’t happen. I now use a larger waterer, the same that I use with my adult chickens, and it works just fine. Again, if you’re worried, you can always add a few pebbles in the trough to avoid the chick from submerging its head inside.
A Spot for Food and Grit: In the link above for the waterer, it comes with a feed container also. I use the small, quart feeders and waterers when I have 10 chicks or less. I currently have 500 chicks in my brooder so the small containers aren’t enough. There are few different options for feeders. There’s the trough and the hanging feeder (doesn’t HAVE to hang).  I’ve used the trough and don’t like it very much. When the chicks are rather small, they get their heads stuck in the holes and once they’re a bit larger they can’t seem to get the feed at the bottom of the trough. The hanging feeder is perfect because it’s a slow feeder so I only have to fill it once every couple of days and the food is easily accessible. You’ll need grit if your chicks won’t’ be free-ranging, having access to small stones and what not to digest food. I don’t give my chicks grit, but I suggest reading about what grit is and if you need it for your specific situation!
Bedding: There are so many options for your bedding. Some people use shredded newspapers, puppy pads, or some other shredded paper. I use saw dust shavings because I feel they’re more absorbent, smell great, and there are different options for size. I use the fine shavings when they’re younger so it’s easier for them to walk on. You only need about an inch of bedding in my experience. Whatever you use, make sure it’s a safe material for your chickies and it’s easy for their growing legs to walk on. You want a material that promotes healthy and strong legs!
How to keep your chicks alive?
First, know that chicks are tougher than you may think. Unfortunately, I learned this the hard way. There’ve been a few times in the winter that I turned the heat lamp off outside when it definitely should’ve been on. The chicks survived when I expected them not to, but I definitely do not advise you to do what I’ve done. Raising chicks is fun, but mistakes are possible.

Your day old chicks need to have a spot in their brooder to go to if they’re cold. This spot will, of course, be underneath the heat lamp. For the first week, that spot should be 95º.
Every week, decrease the temperature by 5º. Around 6 weeks the chicks should have all their feathers and should be able to withstand temperatures of 70º. If you’re raising chicks in the deep of winter, I suggest keeping the heat lamp around if your brooder is big enough just in case. Your chicks can freeze to death but can also die of heat stroke.

I will make it a little simple with a tip! If the chicks are all trying to get away from the heat lamp then your brooder is too hot. If the chicks are all huddled together under the lamp, they’re not warm enough. You want your chicks evenly scattered throughout your brooder at night. In the daytime, they’ll rest a bit but should mostly be up and peeping and poking around the brooder checking it out. I turn the heat lamp off during the day and on at night, so they have the option to get under it in the night.

When your chicks are resting, They’ll be laying on their side and all sprawled out. When beginning, I’d say definitely check them and make sure they’re not actually dead but also checking them will familiarize you with the actions of your new baby chicken.

What to do when your chicks get sick:

I have many sick chick while raising chicks. The chick had bumble foot and he got over it. I separated them, which you should always immediately do if you believe you have a sick chicken. I mixed coconut oil in his food, fed them kale and carrot bits, and put apple cider vinegar (
ACV) in their water and after 2-3 weeks they were back to normal.

As a preventative, you can add a little ACV to your chicks water every time you fill it up, just be sure to not add too much! One thing I have had to deal with a few times is what we call “Pasty Butt” and it can be deadly. This is when your chicks vent (where the stools, and eventually eggs, come out) becomes clogged with hard poo. The poo sticks to the chicks ‘downy’ feathers and they have no way of getting the hard poop off. As you might have already realized but this prevents the chick from pooping.

Pasty butt is common in chicks that have been sent in the mail because they’re going through the stress of being shipped, getting a little hotter than they should, not having access to water, etc.

If you see that your chick has pasty butt, you need to act immediately. If you’ve ever been constipated you’ll know that it’s nothing to wish upon another being. Sorry for “TMI”!

This is how to treat pasty butt in chicks

Pick up the chicks with your hand over its wings so it can’t flap around and hurt itself. Gently turn the chick over and wet its pasty butt. Dip your Q-Tip in the coconut oil and dab it on the dried feces. NOTE: Be extremely careful while doing this. You don’t want to rip the dried poop from the little chicks booty because you can open a wound and hurt it. Slowly alternate from dipping the Q-Tip in water and oil of choice until the poop starts to soften. You can then start to slowly peel the poop off with the Q-Tip. Change the Q-Tip as often as possible and never, ever, ever penetrate the vent hole with your Q-Tip. This can severely harm the chick. Just a heads up, your chick is going to be really pissed off. The first time you do this won’t be pleasant for either party, but it must be done. Once you’ve successfully removed all the poop from the rear, smear some clean coconut oil on and around the vent (NOT IN!) and put the chick back in the brooder.

How to Prevent Pasty Butt:

Make sure you have a large enough brooder so that they can comfortably get under the lamp if too cool and away from the lamp if too warm.
Don’t feed finisher at a young age 0-10 weeks they should be fed “Starter” feed, 10 weeks you switch them to “Grower”, and around 12  weeks you can give them regular starter  feed till adult or market sales.

Now, go out and start raising chicks and have fun! It’s a wonderful experience and an amazing process to see these bitty animals going into adult hens and roos.
It will also be a such of income for you if you can do it in large number. Raising chicken chicks is fun and also profitable, you can try it today, good luck.