11 COMMON DISEASES IN POULTRY BIRDS AND HOW TO DEAL WITH IT

Many poultry farmers love to see their chickens doing fine every day. As a chicken farmer, how do you feel whenever you enter the pen of your chickens are you see them doing fine and coming closer to welcome you? A fascinating and memorable feeling, right? You will also love it when your chickens lay eggs regularly as a reward for your hard work on them.

Did you know that the happy feeling above would change if the situations are different and negative? When your chickens come down with diseases, their performances are negatively impacted and because they look unhappy because of their poor state of health, you will also be unhappy.

There are some common poultry diseases that you need to know about as well as how to treat them. They are as follows:

1. Marek’s Disease

This Disease (MD) is a viral disease that affects chickens and it causes tumor. This disease affects only female chickens and occurs in chickens between 6 to 20 weeks of age. Marek’s disease is highly contagious and can be transmitted from an infected bird to uninfected birds or through the air.

These are Signs and symptoms of marek: Paralysis of the legs and wings. In the classical form of Marek’s disease, the affected chickens lie on their side with one leg stretched backward and the other leg stretched forward. In the acute form, many chickens die suddenly without showing any sign of illness while some chickens show paralytic symptoms and appear depressed before dying. Other signs include paleness, loss of weight, shrunken comb and diarrhea.

Treatment: Marek’s disease has no treatment, but to avoid the incidence of MD, day-old chicks must be vaccinated against the disease.

2. Newcastle Disease

Newcastle disease (also known as Ranikhet disease) is a viral disease that is caused by paramyxoviruses. These viruses are of various types. There are the very harmful type, moderately harmful type and mildly harmful type. This disease can be transmitted through the air, feed, water and carrier birds.

Signs and symptoms: With very harmful paramyxoviruses, the first sign is sudden death. Other signs like weakness, depression, greenish diarrhea, lying down, swelling of the face and nervous signs will also be observed. Torticollis (twisting of the neck), leg paralysis, arching of the body are some other indications of Newcastle disease. In layers, laying of soft-shelled or shell-less eggs is an early sign, followed by totally halting of egg laying. Moderately harmful paramyxoviruses are responsible for severe respiratory problems. In adult chickens, there is usually obvious decline in egg production for many months. However, the mortality rate is low. The mildly harmful paramyxoviruses may not cause any disease or just a mild respiratory problem.

Treatment: Newcastle Diseases has no treatment, but can be prevented through vaccination, maintaining a high level of farm hygiene, good management and biosecurity measures.

Also Read: Poultry Diseases that are Rampant in the Cold or Wet Season

3. Infectious Bronchitis

This is a rapid, sudden and high contagious viral poultry disease. It’s caused by a coronavirus and could be transmitted through the air, contaminated materials and carrier hosts.

Signs and symptoms: Abnormal respiratory sounds, snoring, gasping, sneezing and coughing, watery nasal discharge, ocular discharge and swelling of the face. Reduced egg production and poor eggshell quality.

Treatment: Infectious bronchitis has no specific treatment, but you can administer antibiotics in mixed infections. You should also take affected chickens to a warm, dry place to recover. Some farmers have tried warm herb tea and fresh herbs, and they claimed they worked.

To prevent Infectious Bronchitis, vaccinate your chickens against the disease and maintain proper ventilation of chicks.

4. Fowl Pox

Fowl pox is a viral disease that could be transmitted through body wounds or scratches, a vector carrying the virus (e.g., mosquitos) and through the air.

Signs and symptoms: If you notice something like pox lesions on wattles, comb and/or legs, discharge from nostrils, white ulcers or cheesy membrane in mouth, loss of appetite, decline in egg production, foamy materials in corners of eyes or white spots on the skin, your chickens are undoubtedly developing or already down with Fowl Pox.

Treatment: Since this is a viral disease, there is no exact drug. However, you should remove the necrotic membrane from affected chickens’ mouth and larynx. You can stimulate appetite with wet feed (mash) and add antibiotics and multivitamins to their drinking water. Ensure that you use good disinfectant during the outbreak of the disease.

To prevent Fowl Pox, you need to vaccinate your chickens with Fowl Pox vaccine and control mosquitoes in and around the chicken coop or pen.

5. Botulism

This is a serious disease caused by the botulism toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum. The disease affects the nervous system of chickens, causing body weakness and paralysis. Chickens can pick up the disease when they drink water or eat feed that has been contaminated with botulism toxin.

Signs and symptoms: If you notice that your chickens have progressing tremor that later develops into a paralysis of the body and breathing difficulty. The feathers pull out easily and the affected chickens die within a few hours.

Treatment: Administer an expensive botulism antitoxin from a vet drug store. If you’re able to diagnose or detect the disease early, mix one (1) teaspoon of Epsom salts with 3 cl of warm water. Administer the solution to the affected chickens once a day.

To prevent botulism, always maintain good farm hygiene and sanitation. Avoid feed and water contamination and all dead carcasses should be buried far from the chickens’ pen or environment.

6. Fowl Cholera or Avian Pasteurellosis

Fowl Cholera is a highly contagious bacterial disease that affects poultry birds. It is caused by Pasteurella multocida and could be transmitted through ingestion of contaminated food and water or from a carrier host chicken.

Signs and symptoms: Yellowish or greenish diarrhoea, difficulty in breathing, swollen joint, purple comb and wattle, oral, nasal and ocular discharges, ruffled feathers and loss of appetite.

Treatment: Fowl cholera can be treated with penicillin, streptomycin, erythromycin, tetracyclines and sulphonamides. You will need to administer drugs for long-term because the disease usually returns after stopping medication.

To prevent Fowl Cholera, administer F. Cholera vaccine and maintain a high level of farm hygiene and sanitation. Prevent rodents, cats and wild birds from gaining access to the pen.

Also Read: How to Vaccinate Poultry Birds

7. Infectious Coryza

Infectious Coryza or Fowl Coryza is a severe respiratory disease that affects chicken and it could be sudden. This disease is common in layers and broilers and it is caused by Haemophilus paragallinarum. It could be transmitted water contaminated with nose discharges, through the air, or through direct contact with an infected chicken.

Signs and symptoms: Swelling of the head (comb, wattle and eyes), sneezing, stringy discharge from the nose and eyes, conjunctivitis with closed eyes, difficulty in breathing and moisture under the wings. Other symptoms of infectious coryza include reduced feed and water consumption and huge drop or halt in egg production.

Treatment: Infectious Coryza can be treated with antibiotics and sulpha drugs. Oxytetracycline, enrofloxacin, trimethoprim and sulpha drug can be combined to treat infectious coryza.

Chickens can be protected from infectious coryza through vaccination. Dispose all infected chickens or those that had recovered. Sanitation and hygiene and avoid keeping chickens of different ages together.

8. Thrush

The thrush in chickens is similar to baby’s thrush. It can be contracted by chickens that eat feed or food that has grown moldy; that is, moldy feed or food. They can also contract the disease by drinking contaminated water.

Signs and symptoms: White oozy substance inside the crop of infected chickens. Increased appetite than normal. Lethargic appearance, crusty vent and ruffled feathers.

Treatment: Thrush can be treated by administering an antifungal drug. To avoid future occurrence or reinfection, discard bad or moldy feed or food and contaminated water.

9.Chronic Respiratory Disease (CRD)

CRD is a mycoplasmal disease caused by Mycoplasma gallisepticum, and it affects the respiratory tracts (including air sacs) of chickens and other birds. CRD can be transmitted through hatching eggs, direct contact with carrier birds and through inhalation of contaminated droplets, dust or feathers.

Signs and symptoms: Abnormal respiratory sounds, sneezing, nasal discharge, coughing and sneezing. Reduced feed consumption, loss of body weight and decreased egg production.

Treatment: Chronic Respiratory Disease can be treated with several antibiotics. Tylosin, oxytetracycline, streptomycin, neomycin, chlortetracycline, gentamicin, tiamulin, enrofloxacin, lincomycin, erythromycin and other related drugs can be used to treat CRD.

10. Pullorum Disease (Salmonellosis)

Pullorum disease is a bacterial disease that is caused by a bacterium called Salmonella pullorum. The disease is highly contagious and affects the blood of chickens, but characterized by white diarrhoea. This is the reason why pullorum disease is also called Bacilliary White Disease (BWD). It can be transmitted through the eggs, contaminated feed, water, litter and faeces.

Signs and symptoms: Depression and unusual huddling together, respiratory distress, white and sticky faecal droppings, loss of appetite, pale, shrunken combs with ruffled feathers and decline in egg production.

Treatment: Several antibiotics can be used to treat pullorum disease. However, furazolidone is recommended. Pullorum disease can be controlled by good biosecurity measures and ensure you procure your chicks from a reputable hatchery.

11. Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot is an infection that is caused by staphylococcus bacteria and it is usually the aftereffect when your chickens get their injured foot infected by this bacteria. The foot of the affected chicken swells up because of infection. The cut or injury to the foot could occur when the chicken is scratching the floor or a sharp object.

The only way to treat Bumblefoot is by performing surgery. It involves using a biopsy or scalpel to cut out the scab and removing the underlying infected core. After removing the core, drain the pus and soak the infected foot in warm water and Epsom Salts. Dry the foot with a clean bath towel and apply honey or any microbial and Vetericyn VF. Cover the area up with gauze and wrap with vet wrap to lock the bandage.

If bumblefoot infection is left untreated, the affected chicken may become completely lame and could also die after other tissues in the body are affected.

The best way to prevent bumblefoot is to keep a close watch on the feet of your chickens. If you observed that there is a cut on either of the feet, don’t hesitate to wash and disinfect the foot to prevent it from becoming septic or infected with staphylococcus bacteria.

General tips on chicken's house (coop) Hygienes and Ventilation

One of the most important aspects of hygiene in poultry farm is providing adequate ventilation.
You need effective window ventilation up with  home-made design which uses plexiglass (safer) and hardware cloth to protect our hens against predators. If you use the deep-litter method of bedding ventilation issues become critical. We opted not to, using shavings on planks over concrete.
Most of our manure gets scraped off platforms and there is little odor thanks to good air flow. First Aid These are what you should as your first aid tools. . ceramic heater water source magnifying glass clean rags cotton balls needle/thread rubbing alcohol tincture of iodine electrolytes on hand, also vitamins apple cider vinegar olive oil sugar electrolytes with antibiotics, would only use in certain circumstances q-tips eye droppers latex gloves blue lotion I would like to share a simple idea about eliminating 6 and 8-legged pests from the moment a coop is built, or given a thorough cleaning. Consider investing in a no-pest strip. Such strips are made of wax impregnated with pyrethins. Made by Vapona, Black Flag, Home Hardware and under various generic labels. These strips can be hung high in a coop or can be shielded from the birds using hardware cloth or metal screening.
Avoid placing over food or water. They kill fleas, ticks, lice, mites, ticks, gnats and most flies. As a preventive they are unsurpassed, and will decrease the need for dusting or spraying birds directly. Available at most hardware stores, tack shops, co-ops, feed stores and agricultural supply houses. Uses in coops, barns, restaurants, hospitals and homes. Added bonus- no fleas in your house, ever if you use them regularly.

I experienced a major problem and diseased chicks entered many backyard flocks, sat times contaminating the existing adults, though most owners saw the problem and were able to check the spread. For others, sadly, deaths and euthanasia became a priority, and vets and government officials became involved. Knowledgeable poultry owners quarantine new birds and many of us operate closed flocks, in which a group of birds enter new premises and remain with only those birds for the duration. Whether you keep chickens or other livestock, hygiene may be as simple as washing your hands between the handling of say, brooder chicks and the touching of existing animals. If you know an individual is ill, both medications and disinfectants may be needed, and all materials that come in contact will have to be clearned or in some cases, destroyed. Sometimes when you lose an animal you must do more than compost the body and you need to become informed. A sink in the coop would be a real treasure, but few of us have one.

There are a lot of issues surrounding coop hygiene and one of the easiest things we can do is to wash our barn clothes regularly, especially when we know there is trouble. Gloves can be a problem and it helps to have a kind that can be wiped down easily or to keep some latex or plastic gloves on hand for situations involving extreme care. If you have a convenient hose or wash tray for boots, you can keep what's in the coop from getting anywhere else, and other things from getting to the coop. You may need a disinfectant from time to time, too. Look at it this way- what if you get new birds some day that seem okay but are diseased or contaminated in some way? Would you risk infecting the birds you have? Without a plan, every new bird becomes a possible source of trouble. Even worse, with government peering into backyard coops, the introduction of certain diseases could mean your whole flock could be forcibly culled. How awful. You might need an isolation cage or coop, it's something to plan for before you have trouble. Choose something that can be disinfected. We spot clean our coop every day. Some owners use the deep litter method but we prefer the regular removal of droppings.

You should decide that any implements you use in the coop will never be used in other parts of the barn, to prevent the spread of viruses and bacteria. The porch on the aisleway side of the coop now has coat hooks and other hangers where we can keep a whisk broom, a scraper, buckets,kitty litter scoop, a first aid bag and other things that are for the birds only. Feed will be kept in the feed room in rodent-proof containers, no loose bags open or not are ever kept in other animal coop.. It's important to design your coop in such a way that panels can be unscrewed to inspect wall cavities for pests, and you want to do this so that you don't damage your materials. In cold climates insulation is a must, and you can use the fibreglass/vapor seal/tuck tape method with screwed (not nailed) panels.

Another thing you can do is to caulk cracks and seams, and there are products that can easily be peeled away if you have to open a section of wall. Read the instructions though, you should not apply these with birds nearby. Caulking is a concern. Sometimes you can caulk from the back side of a panel if it's under construction and there are products like Draft-Stop that can be peeled away if you ever have to remove a section. By the way, if you use shavings in the coop and discover that some bales are extra-heavy, they are probably filled with sawdust, from the end of a run at the mill. Next time, ask to put them back and get bales of average weight, and you'll have less dust in the coop. And once or twice a year I shoo the hens out into the run and close the pop door so that I can use the shop vac to get rid of grooming dust, spider webs and debris in nooks and carnnies.

The dropping have some food-grade diatomaceous earth underneath and some leftover seed from wild birdseed treats. I use a paint scraper and a catch bucket to clean up daily, getting most of the droppings that would dampen or foul the coop. Most lime or limestone garden products are alkaline and are designed to neutralize soil acids (sweeten soil). They will burn and I can only imagine the horror of destroying the skin on the feet of chickens. I also avoid masonary products like mortar and quickline. Another item we use is a pest strip to kill flies. We don't have major problems because most of the biting flies will not remain in the shade of a barn, but in August or September we might hand a pyrethin wax strip . Pest Strip. It's good for three months, can be hung over poultry (avoid directly over food/water) and will work on most kinds of insect parasites. Be sure to check any rain barrels of other collection dishes that hold liquids for mosquito larvae- change water as often as you feasibly can! Food storage is a critical subject too. Whichever you choose, keeping food from contamination and any kind of spoilage is vital. If a bag gets wet and you can't use the feed immediately, you may have to get rid of it. And remember not to dump bad food near the coop, or you may attract rodents. If you need them raccoon straps are available at hardware stores. Never use feed which has gotten damp or moldy. If a feed source has had mopisture problems from leakage or flooding, reconsider buying even if the feed seems dry- spores can collect along seams and in the bottom and poison your birds before you know the cause.
These are little I can share for now, more articles on coop hygiene are on the way.

HOW TO RAISE QUAIL AS A POULTRY FARMER OR AS A PET

Many poultry farmers are mostly concentrate on chicken and turkey , but there are many other birds which are lucrative and profitable , quail is one of those profitable birds that can earn you more money in your farm.
Quail is a collective name for several general of mid-sized birds.

Quail are a small, short tailed game bird resembling partridges but are smaller and stockier. 130 species in all over the world, 95 Old World and some 36 New World Quail. Quail have been kept in captivity for meat and eggs since the Egyptian times. In fact they even have their own hieroglyph! Japanese Quail or Coturnix Quail as they are also called were a very common bird to keep back in those days. As these quail migrated through out the area, the Egyptians found they were easy to catch. So it only made sense to keep them captive and breed them for their eggs and meat.

  How to raise or keep Quail?

Quail are quickly becoming a common species of poultry in many backyards across the world. They are mainly kept for meat or eggs but also as pets and the entertainment value of this fun little bird. They are easy to maintain, can be kept in smaller spaces than other larger poultry, they are quieter than other species of poultry and let's face it, they are just so darn cute!

Few reasons that make sense as to why you might like to keep this little bird:

1. Unlike Chickens or other poultry, for some reason, Quail usually don't fall into that category of "Poultry" when it comes to city ordinances and laws. They just don't see them as "poultry". So more often than not, those of you that are not allowed to keep Chickens, Ducks or Geese in your town, city or HOA, you can keep Quail. Of course you will definitely want to contact your City  agents on all the laws and regulations on keeping quail in your area.

2. There are health benefits to keeping Quail as well. Especially the eggs. Quail eggs have been used for eons to treat various ailments in the human body such as Asthma, Coughs, and Allergies. Many people are allergic to Chickens and their eggs. Chicken eggs can cause itching, nausea and even vomiting. Not so with quail eggs. They are not only allergy free but they help to fight allergy in your body due to a special protein they contain known as Ovomucoid. So those of you that are allergic to Chicken eggs, you will be able to eat Quail eggs. The eggs are also known to improve your memory, boost your immune system, they are rich in iron and contain so many more vitamins and minerals that aid in good health.

3. By raising your own quail for meat, you know what you are eating. No mystery meats there! Quail can dress up nicely for the table. A Jumbo Coturnix Quail can weigh in at nearly 14 ounces, and a Jumbo Georgia Giant Bobwhite can yield up to 16 ounces! While Bobwhites take much longer to grow won't be ready for butchering until 14 to 16 weeks of age or sexually mature until 6+ months of age, Coturnix Quail are fast growers and can be ready for the table at 6 to 8 weeks of age and laying by 9 weeks of age.

4. Quail are just fun little birds to keep as pets as well! While they may seem aloof at times and most of them do not like to be cuddled or held like many other species of poultry, Quail are smart birds and can learn their names, come when called, eat from your hands and can even be trained to do certain things. Give them a healthy diet, an environment conducive to good mental health, a clean area and you will have happy healthy quail no matter why you are keeping them.

Where to get baby Quail or Adult Quail

Unfortunately, Quail are not as common as Chickens so you may have to do a bit of work to find them. Some feed stores like Tractor Supply will carry Quail chicks in the springtime. So it is best to call ahead and find out if your local feed store is going to carry them. Some feed stores will even special order them for you. Hatching eggs are available online, however, I do try to sway people from purchasing hatching eggs from unknown breeders. I have found that people selling online can be selling eggs from Quail with a lot of genetic issues, deformities and the hatch rates on these eggs is very poor. So be aware if you turn to these sources, but sometimes there is no other place to go. Most people do not ship adult Quail as they just do not do well being shipped. You can always get your quail from local store or farmer who are raising quail.
Many large hatcheries around the country also sell eggs and chicks, although they do have high quantity orders, many times 100+ chicks
There are many Quail hatcheries around the country that sell quality eggs and chicks. I have never dealt with any of these hatcheries, but if you do your research you can find quality dealers. And don't forget the local Quail Farms. I got my start in Quail from a local guy and his Quail Farm.

My advice

Quail can be such a fun little bird to keep. If you keep them properly, they can bring you years of enjoyment and profit. Just remember, healthy happy quail start with good stock. This is an area you should never overlook and need to do your homework before you purchase eggs, chicks or adult birds. Genetic issues are very common in overly bred Quail from breeders that are not experienced enough. Obtain all birds or eggs from a good quality breeder or hatchery. The average lifespan of captive kept Quail is 2 to 5 years, depending on their health, their environment and how they are kept. However, they have been known to live 7 to 8 years. Quail are seasonal layers which means they lay during their natural breeding season of spring through fall. The average healthy hen will lay about 100 eggs during this time. You can use "force laying" during these off seasons with extra lighting, however, you will be shortening their lives and cause more stress to the hens physically.

Another thing to take into consideration is that Quail have lost that instinct to brood their own eggs. It can and does happen occasionally, but generally brooding has been bred out of them. Since they will not set long enough to hatch a clutch of eggs, you will need an incubator.

So consider raising some Quail in your farm, feel free to ask question on this blog and you can also post your experience in raising quail below for other poultry keepers to know from you. Thank y

WHAT IS MAREK'S, SIGN OF MAREK'S AND HOW TO PREVENT MAREK'S IN POULTRY BIRDS

My goal in this article is to quickly educate you about the key points of Marek's disease without overwhelming you with superfluous information.

All information I'm providing here has been carefully researched and double checked with a poultry farmers. Although I have made every effort to provide accurate information, some may still be inaccurate. If you have any corrections, please you are free to do so.

1. What is Marek's? 

Marek's disease is a form of herpes virus that can infect domestic poultry and a few wild birds. In chickens, the virus can rapidly cause cancer to grow all through the chicken, most commonly in the nerves, organs, and feather follicles. The virus is spread through chicken dander and is extremely contagious. If one of your chickens has Marek's, you can be certain that the rest have been exposed and are carriers. Wind and wild animals can carry Marek's for miles. Because the disease is so contagious, Marek's is considered ubiquitous worldwide. You should assume that every chicken is infected with Marek's unless it has been raised in a completely biosecure environment--nearly impossible for backyard chicken keepers. Marek's is not contagious to humans and a Marek's infected bird is perfectly safe to eat. In fact, you have probably eaten numerous Marek's chickens already. However, it's still probably not a good idea to eat a chicken that looks sick, since it's possible the chicken has another infection that could make you sick.

2. What are the symptoms of Marek's in birds ?

In many cases, Marek's causes no signs or symptoms. A bird with natural/genetic resistance can live a perfectly healthy life. This is why you must assume that every chicken has Marek's. There's simply no way to tell. However, in unvaccinated birds with no natural resistance, the virus can kill between 60%-100% of a flock. Keep in mind that Marek's symptoms will only begin to show up weeks or months after the bird is infected. Most commonly a hen will begin showing symptoms around the time when she begins laying, with roosters showing signs when they are slightly older. However, if a chicken's immune system becomes compromised, the symptoms may show up later or earlier. In most cases, a chicken who lives at least one year with no symptoms will never show symptoms, even though it is a carrier.
The most common sign of Marek's is a chicken who appears to be paralyzed in one limb, usually one leg. The chicken will likely interact and behave completely normally, except that its leg doesn't work. If your chicken is showing this symptom, it's very likely that it has Marek's. Over time, the paralysis will worsen until the chicken dies of wasting, asphyxiation, or is killed by the rest of the flock. This can be heartbreaking to watch. Other common symptoms include: Ocular degeneration. The iris may lose its color and turn blue, or become misshapen. The bird may become blind. This is probably the second most common form of the disease. General neurological impairment. The chicken may stagger, act dizzy, or generally show signs of weakness or confusion. Poor growth or frequent illness. The disease weakens the chicken's immune system and makes it more susceptible to all diseases. Wasting away. The chicken may begin losing weight rapidly as its organs are consumed by tumors, and may become thin and weak. Tumors on the skin and feather follicles. Note that it is very difficult to diagnose Marek's without a necropsy, since it can mimic other diseases. A blood test is usually not worthwhile, since most chickens will show positive. In my personal opinion, it's generally not worth the money of getting a firm diagnosis; I prefer to diagnose based on symptoms. Others would disagree with me and say that you should at least test the first chicken you lose to make sure it's Marek's and not some other disease that could be treated.

3. Is there any way to prevent Marek's?

There is no any, Sort of! Other than extreme biosecurity measures, there's no way to prevent a chicken from becoming infected. However, vaccination can give your chicks a better chance of surviving when they do become infected--survival in adequately vaccinated and quarantined chickens is approximately 90-95% (although success of the vaccine has been decreasing in recent years as the virus mutates). Vaccination will not expose your existing flock to the disease. The vaccine that's typically used is actually a turkey form of the virus. It does not cause any symptoms in your vaccinated chickens, and will not cause the chickens to spread the virus. It just gives them a better chance of surviving if they are exposed. If a vaccinated bird is exposed, it will become a carrier, even if it shows no symptoms. Vaccination should be done inside the egg or during the chick's first day after hatching for the best protection. This will help build the chick's immunity before it is exposed to the disease. Vaccination starts a race between the chick's immune system and exposure to the virus. After vaccination, it takes anywhere from 10 days to 5 weeks for the chicken to build adequate immunity. In other words, it's important to quarantine your new chicks for no less than 10 days, but preferably 5 or 6 weeks after vaccination. This will allow them to build immunity before being exposed to the virus. During quarantine, it's important to have very good biosecurity. You must keep vaccinated chicks in a separate location that will not become contaminated with any chicken dander. Since chicken dander may stick to your hair, skin, and clothing, it is a good idea to take a shower and change clothing and shoes before interacting with the vaccinated chicks or entering the quarantine area. Now, there may be some good reasons not to vaccinate. For example, a meat bird will likely be butchered before it shows any symptoms of Marek's. So vaccination of meat birds might be overkill. Some people say that the vaccine may cause the chicks to grow slower and smaller, but I don't believe there are any scientific studies that confirm this. In my opinion, it's still worthwhile to have meat chicks vaccinated. Another reason not to vaccinate is if you are intentionally trying to breed a Merek's resistant flock of birds. Some breeders have reported doing this successfully.
This is out of reach for most back yard chicken keepers, since roosters are not allowed in most urban areas. Finally, there is some evidence that the vaccine can cause the virus to mutate into a more virulent (deadly) form over time. I have no opinion on this, as I think the research is not yet clear. Given that Marek's is a horrible cancer and wasting disease that can easily kill most of a flock, I personally believe that vaccination is worthwhile in all but a few special cases. I will make sure all of my future birds are vaccinated.

4. What you should do as a poultry farmer if any of your birds is showing signs of Marek's?

First thing to do,   DO NOT PANIC
2. Acknowledge that you will lose some birds to the disease, perhaps most or all of your birds if your flock is not vaccinated. In most cases, once symptoms show, the disease will only get worse and worse until the chicken starves to death or asphyxiates. In my opinion it is much better to put the chicken out of its misery while it still has a reasonable quality of life. Further, since chickens who are showing symptoms are likely shedding more of the virus, it's probably a good idea to cull sooner rather than later.
3. Decide how you will manage the disease going forward. A Marek's infection doesn't mean the end of your chicken keeping days. For backyard keepers, I recommend continuing business as usual, while keeping an eye out for sick birds and culling when appropriate. I do not recommend culling your whole flock and attempting to disinfect your yard and start over. This requires special virucides, and in most cases a backyard keeper will not be able to adequately disinfect their entire yard. Furthermore, any new flock will likely be contaminated anyway by neighboring chickens, wild birds, or even just the wind. So a mass culling and sterilization would likely not help anything. As a poultry keeper i believe the best approach to managing a Marek's infection in a backyard flock is to (1) cull sick birds as necessary
(2) vaccinate and properly quarantine all birds you acquire in the future, and
(3) never to give or sell your birds without informing the buyer that they are a carrier for Marek's. Finally, please be aware that you may spread the disease to other flocks on your clothing, shoes, hair. Please take adequate precautions to prevent spreading the disease to other flocks or to the other poultry, make sure you wash you hand and others equipment..

HOW TO RAISE DUCKS FOR THE BEGINNERS

Ducks ???, Many poultry bird farmers mostly concentrated on chicken and turkey but there is the wonderful and money making bird call duck which many poultry farmers have not yet tap into, ducks are friendly and profitable birds which is raise for meat or as a pet.

These are some basics information on raising ducks. This information is based on Guide to Raising Ducks and information from backyard chicken and turkey Farm. This is not meant to provide emergency care only very basic information.

1. Be prepared and have everything set up prior to the arrival of the ducks .

A brooder Something as simple as a cardboard box may be used as a brooder. Plastic totes, bathtubs, and wooden boxes can also be used. You can line the bottom of the brooder with plastic sheeting (if brooding indoors) this will help with cleanup. Put down a layer of bedding several inches thick. Pine shavings or straw are good and readily available. You can add pine pellet horse stall bedding to help with wet spots. Avoid slick material like newspaper. Paper towels can be placed over the bedding for the first few days. Watch the ducklings to ensure they are not eating bedding materials. Most will “taste” the bedding but not actually swallow it. Wet spots should be removed and bedding replaced every day. If using shavings, avoid adding large amounts while the ducklings are in the brooder as shavings are very dusty. Cedar shavings should be avoided as they can give off fumes due to the heat lamp.

2. Heat
.
Ducks need a brooder that is about 90° for the first week and then the temperature should be lowered by 5° each week afterwards. Once the temperature in the brooder is the same as the environment (inside or outside) the heat source can be removed. A thermometer is a great investment for someone new to brooding. The heat lamp should be placed so that the ducklings can get away from the heat if needed. Overheating is just as dangerous as chilling for the ducks.

3. Feeders and waterers

Feeders and waterers should be placed at the perimeter of the heat source. Ducklings may not go to eat and drink if the area is too hot or too cold. d, Water Ducks need to have constant access to water whenever feed is available. They need to be able to wash their eyes and nares (nostrils) to remove dust or debris. A chick waterer can be used for the first week or so but they will quickly outgrow it. Adding large marbles to the base of the waterer will help to keep the babies out of the water. A non-spill waterer can be easily and cheaply made. A gallon milk jug or shallow food storage container can be used. Simply cut a hole at the height of the ducklings back that is large enough for them to fit just their entire head in. These will need to be replaced on a weekly basis as the ducklings outgrow them. A platform can be fashioned out of a container covered in hardware cloth so the splashing of the waterer is contained there. Place the waterer in the brooder in advance so that the water is room temperature. When the ducklings arrive, dip each of their beaks in the water and ensure that they swallow. Ducklings should not be allowed to get and stay wet. Extreme care should be taken in allowing them to swim when young. Ducklings easily tire and can drown even in a small amount of water.
A thorough drying is needed if they get wet.

4. Feeding

It is recommended that ducks have feed available 24/7 for the first 2 weeks under certain conditions. However, many people think that two weeks is too young to reduce the time that food and water are available, and recommend waiting till 6 to 8 weeks. Ducks should be fed starter feed with 18-20% protein for the first two weeks. This can be in a crumble form or a mash. Mash should be wet to make it easier to eat. If mash is used, it must be replaced several times a day to prevent spoilage. They can be given chick starter, duck/waterfowl starter, broiler starter, or turkey starter. Care should be taken when feeding a higher protein level feed because it may led to physical damage . For many people, duck specific feed is not available. Many people have good results feeding starter or a feed developed for all ages/species. Layer feed should not be given to growing ducklings as the calcium level is too high and can result in damage or death. An ideal protein feeding schedule is given in the below table .
Again, this is not always a possibility for many people but this blog idea.

Age
0-2 weeks , 8-20%
2-8 weeks , 16 -18 %
8-14 weeks, 15-16%
14 to adult , 16-18%
Medicated feed can be given depending on the type of medication that is used. Medications such as amprolium and zinc bacitracin are not harmful to ducklings. Ducks have a higher body temperature and are not as prone to many illnesses. Coccidiosis is usually not a problem for ducklings unless sanitation is poor. Therefore, feeding medicated feed is not a necessity. Feeders should be shallow for the first few days. Jar lids, egg carton flats or anything that will not tip but is very low will work. Once eating well, they can be switched to troughs. Whole grains should not be given until ducklings are several weeks old. If ducklings are fed chick starter a niacin supplement should be given for the first 10 weeks. Brewer’s yeast can be added to feed (2-3 cups per 10 lbs of feed) or niacin tablets can be added to water (100-150mg per gallon). Grit Ducklings do not need grit if they are fed only commercial feed. If grains or greens are fed, they need appropriate size grit. Invest in a Book Asking questions and getting answers on this blog. http://chickenandsnail.blogspot.com . is a wonderful source of information. But knowledgeable people are not always online to answer emergency questions. Invest in a book geared specifically at raising ducks so that you have it to refer to in an emergency.
However Some people have luck in raising a single duck but ducks need companionship which is best provided by another duckling. Ducks can live up to 15 years and while "right now" you may have the time to devote to a duck it is unlikely that your life won't change in the next 10-15 years. Two ducks will still bond to their owner but they will have each other to spend time with, play with and act like a duck with. g,

5. When can I Release my duck to the garden ?

No. Domestic ducklings raised by people do not possess the skills needed to survive on their own. They have not learned skills from a wild mother that they need to survive and are unlikely to possess migratory instincts, if they can even fly. Here is some info from the El Paso Zoo on reasons they should not be released Domestic ducks can also carry many diseases which wild populations of ducks do not have immunity to and which there is no cure for. New Castle Disease, duck virus enteritis (DVE), fowl cholera, paratyphoid, avian tuberculosis, chlamydiosis, bird flu and West Nile virus are just some of the diseases that domestic ducks can transmit to wild flocks. In 1993, Muscovy ducks, released into the canals in Venice, California, tested positive for duck plague, duck virus enteritis (DVE), a fatal herpes virus spread through feces. Ducks and geese on the canals began to have violent seizures and then died. People were feeding the ducks and geese, which can cause them to have more and larger clutches. The canals had become overpopulated. This leads to stress from too many birds in too small a habitat, resulting in fighting, injuries, death and disease. All the ducks and geese in the canals were rounded up by the California Department of Fish and Game and killed out of fear that some birds might fly to other areas and infect wild flocks. This issue received international attention, when residents tried to save their favorite birds by taking them to secret locations in an attempt to save them. However, it was the release of domestic ducks, compounded by feeding and the resulting overpopulation that was the real tragedy.
Keep it in mind that just because someone has raised ducks it does not make them a duck expert. Some things work for some people/situations and not to others. There are a few basic necessities for ducks.
1. Quality feed,
2. clean water,
3. Secure housing
4. And good sanitation practices are all that is needed to raise healthy happy ducks. Ducks can incubates their eggs on their own and you can also take the eggs to hatchery if you want.

BEST WAYS TO KEEP CHICKEN HEALTHY AND HAPPY

Healthy and happy chicken is the joy of every poultry farmer, healthy chicken brings more profit and rest of mind,  this article will tell you on how you can make your chicken healthy and happy

Here are some ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.

1.Cleaned  coop and environment

Cleaning the coop is very important for keeping happy, healthy chickens. If you don't clean the coop you risk an infestation of lice, mites, and other parasites. Cleaning your coop isn't always easy but it sure is worth it. Start by getting all the bedding from the floor of the coop and the nesting boxes and dumping it. If any eggs have cracked then make sure to clean up that mess too. Then if needed you can scrub any really soiled spots with some soap and water. Dry it then put some fresh shavings in. Don't Use Cedar. It is toxic. (I use pine shavings) Also if you want to you can use a Garden and Poultry Dust to dust the coop and it keeps out parasites. My chickens sometimes perch in the nesting boxes and poop in them instead of laying eggs in them. Clean out the poop in the nesting boxes everyday or when needed. If your chickens (like mine) perch on top of the coop during the day, there will be a lot of poop up there. Scrape it off.

2.Cleaning Feeders and Waterers

Cleaning these out around every two weeks is a good idea. If you have a plastic waterer it gets pretty slimy so you will need to scrub that with some soap and water. If you want to put some Apple Cider Vinegar in the water, but only in plastic waterers not in metal. If there is any poop in the water dump it out and give them some fresh water. Make sure your chickens have fresh clean water at all times. The feeders aren't very dirty unless they have been pooped on or have gotten dirt or something in them. Clean the with soap and water. And make sure you rinse them well.

3. Keeping their Feed Clean

Make sure that you store your feed in places were bugs, mice, and rats wont get into. Plastic containers or metal trash cans work fine. Always make sure that the tops are closed and make sure that the feed inside cant get wet and turn moldy. Make sure there is no poop in the feed (like mice and rat poop).

4.deworming Your Chickens

If you want to deworm your chickens then deworm them if you see any worms in there poop or if your chickens have been around other poultry that has them. There are a lot of different wormers, and you can easily find them in your local store like Tractor Supply or Southern States.

5. Allow your chicken space to move freely

This is a great way for your chickens to get some nutrition by eating fresh bugs and grass. Also getting out in the fresh air is good for them instead up being cooped up in a run. If you cant free range your chickens then instead you could move there pen to a fresh patch of grass (if you have a movable coop) you could also buy a pen and use that for them. They love being able to go run around in a new place.

6. Always protect them from predators
Predators are those animals that can kill or injured your chicken, so you must make sure your chickens are free and save from them to avoid death and injuries. These predators includes rat, snake and others.

These are just a few of the things to keep your flock healthy. There are a lot of ways to help your flock stay happy and healthy but these are the basics. I'm sure you can find other ways too. Reading a searching for ways to keep your flock healthy is a good idea if you want to make sure they get the care they needed and some times you come across something very helpful you didn't expect.

Thank you for checking out this page. If you have any comments or questions feel free to ask me.

MOlTING IN CHICKEN ,(CHICKEN LOOSING FEATHERS) AND WHAT TO DO WHEN IT HAPPEN

Many farmer have encounter this loosing of feathers, call molting, many farmer we ask why is my Chicken Loosing Feathers?

You may wonder why your chicken’s feathers are falling out or why it has bald spots. Don't worry this is a natural cycle that chickens will go through called molting.

When a chicken is molting, it sheds its old warn out feathers and replaces them with new shiny, clean ones. Both hens and roosters will molt.

Reason why Chickens Molt?

Many chickens will molt when there is less hours of day light, their laying cycle has finished, or stressed induced. Molting also gives a chicken’s reproductive system time to rest. This process can be very stressful for chickens so keeping them happy and healthy is very important during this time. Getting new feathers also helps to keep chickens warm in the winter. After molting their hardier and more resistant to disease.

When Will your chicken Molt?

Small Chicks are covered with down so they don’t have any feathers when they hatch. Chicks will have mini molts about four times, when they are 1-6 weeks old, 7-9 weeks old, 12-13 weeks old, and 20-22 weeks old. During the last molt, the tail feathers grow. Fully grown hens and roosters will molt once or twice a year in the spring or fall. This usually last 2-4 months but some chickens are very slow when molting and will take a long time. The hens that molt fast will only take a couple months. Molting usually depends on when a hen started laying. A chick that was hatched seasonally will start molting in March - April and finishes around July.

What are the Causes of Molting in chicken?

There are three main factors that cause molting are:
1 Exhaustion
2. Sickness,
3. When their laying cycle is completed, (that means they are done laying eggs for a while) and reduced lighting.

What to Expect During Molting

Feathers are 80-85% protein and eggs are around 13% protein so your hen has to make a choice to put protein toward molting or laying, there is not enough for both. Because of this, during molting, laying stops in hens and fertility drops or stops in roosters. While molting, chickens tend to look sick or lose weight. Be sure to keep an eye on your birds when they are molting because they lose weight in this process and could lose too much and become sick. When molting make sure you're doing everything you can to keep your bird healthy because their immune system isn’t at its best during this time. Your chickens comb might look very dull and very small when they are molting which is normal. Obviously expect a lot of feather loss. Chickens that are molting can be very moody and annoying.
During molting if your chickens have bare spots others might try to peck at the skin breaking it and causing it to bleed and attract more picking. If they have enough protein this shouldn't be a problem.

What to feed chicken during the Molt

Since feathers have a lot of protein in them, it’s important to give chickens back protein. Some people don’t feed their chickens anything new while their going through the molt while others do. Feeding a high amount of protein like 20% and up or a Game Bird feed is a great idea (because it has a high amount of protein). Feeding this along with regular feed is a good idea. I also give my hens wet cat food, boiled eggs, and meal worms during their molt for some extra protein.

The Process of molting

The feathers that are coming in will push the old ones out. Chickens will start to lose their head and primary wing feathers first then the feather loss works its way down the body. Your birds may have a hard molt or a soft molt. A hard molt is when the feathers drop out very quickly but don't come back for a while. A soft molt is when the feathers drop out and new ones come in soon after. The new feathers that come in are called pin feathers and look like this. Here are the pin feathers. These hold the new feathers until they break through. The hard covering will falls off when the new ones come in.
Molting is normal in chicken so don't panic whenever you notice loosing of feathers in your birds. ​