(COURTSHIP) INTENTIONAL PREMARITAL RELATIONSHIP

 Studies have shown lots of breakups in premarital relationships because many of the relationships were accidental rather than intentional. Some started the premarital journey (courtship), without purpose, vision, and adequate guidance from God and good counsellors. As a result, the whole experience became moribund.

These are what know and put into consideration before going into that courtship.

COMPOSITION AND 

THE BEENEFITS OF INTENTIONAL PREMARITAL RELATIONSHIP (courtship)

1. THE COMPOSITION

An ideal premarital relationship/courtship should be made up of two full-grown adults (male and female) who have a vision of establishing a home. It should be purposeful and not wishy-washy. There is a goal of marriage in sight, and it should be filled with realistic dreams and not ‘eldorados,  The two of them should take time to build a structure with a good base so they do not major on the minor. The two adults should have a good understanding of each other . It should be deliberate and pure. It should be well planned with full details of how to move from one point to another . It progresses by the day from just seeing each other from a distance to becoming close friends , It should be fun-filled and built on trust.

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2. THE BENEFITS

The following are some of the numerous benefits of an intentional premarital relationship during courtship:

It provides a Solid Marital Foundation: If the relationship is well established or grounded, it will serve as a template for the couple on getting married , As a result, any kind of ‘wind’ does not blow the marriage away .

It makes room for a Direction-Driven relationship: There is a realistic destination in mind. The details of the relationship are known to the two parties involved. They are on the same page .

The relationship will be filled with hope and assurances: It will be devoid of uncertainty and full of realistic expectations and optimism .

A Progressive and Flourishing adventure will be experienced .

There will also be Peace and Joy in the relationship: It is void of struggles because there are only two mature adults with positive mind.

Reason why your Hens not laying eggs

Why are my hens not laying? This are s

ome common causes. When you raise chickens, and you wait patiently for the first egg, months pass, and eggs or your hens suddenly stop laying for no apparent reason. Here are a few reasons why your chicken may not lay eggs or stop laying. 1. Seasons In nature chickens only laid eggs in Spring and into the middle of Summer. The reason for this is because chickens lay eggs to reproduce and during the Spring and Summer months the weather is good and there is more food available, so conditions are perfect for raising chicks. When the days get shorter the hens' bodies sense the change of season and egg production slows down and stops. Humans have been modifying this behavior and have been breeding the most prolific layers to ensure year-round egg production, but given the chance, most hens will still do what nature tells them to. Most hens need a minimum of 14-16 hours of light per day to fool their bodies into thinking it's Spring and keep them in production. This could be either natural or electric light or a combination of both. Adding electric light to the coop will help keep your hens in production, but keep in mind that this could shorten the hen's egg-laying lifespan. Hens are born with a limited amount of egg cells and once those are spent she'll lay no more eggs. If you do decide to add a light have it on in the mornings, so you don't disrupt the hens' natural roosting behavior. You do not need bright light, just enough to read a newspaper by. 2. Stress Stressed hens either lay very strange eggs or no eggs at all. A fright, running out of food and water, disruptions of the pecking order (for example adding a rooster to the flock), and getting moved to a new coop/run all causes stress. When you buy hens and bring them home to a new coop it could take up to 6 weeks before they start laying again. Adding unfiltered Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) will help your chickens deal better with stress. The ratio is 4-5 tablespoons to a gallon of water. 3. Incorrect Feeding The average laying hen's skeleton contains 20g calcium and one egg represents 10% of that. Hens do have calcium reserves stored up in their bodies, but if they do not get enough calcium from their food for their eggshells the stores will get depleted very quickly and they will stop laying. It's important that laying hens get fed either a proper, balanced layer feed (mash or pellets) or a good quality all flock feed with a calcium supplement like oyster shell offered free choice. It is best to offer layer food "free choice" i.e. have the feeders full at all times, to ensure hens get enough food. Keep in mind that the average hen needs 5 ounces of food and 10 ounces of water to produce 1 egg. Feeding too many treats, table scraps and scratch means the hens will eat less of the food they need, so only feed limited amounts of those. Overfeeding scraps and scratch can also cause the hens to get too fat. Overweight hens don't lay eggs. 4. Molting (Losses of feather) Molting is a natural process that allows hens to replace old, worn feathers by shedding them and growing new ones. It is usually triggered by day length (shorter days), but it can happen any time of the year. A stressful event can trigger it too. Most hens molt once a year, usually overwinter in their second year and it is advisable to let your hens molt in their second year. Regrowing feathers takes us much of the body's resources as egg-laying does, so during a molt, most hens won't lay. A molt usually takes between 2 and 6 months to complete and unfortunately, this process cannot be rushed. Some extra protein in their feed will help the hens a lot during this time. 5. Disease and Parasites Diseases and parasite infestations will cause hens to either lay less or stop laying completely. Good parasite control is important and if a hen shows any sign of disease she should be isolated and treated asap. Some of the most common parasites that can cause a drop in egg production are mites, lice, and fleas, which can be controlled by regularly dusting the hens, their coop and run with a good quality poultry dust. Internal parasites to look out for are roundworms and tapeworms. Deworm the flock every 6 months as a precaution. The withdrawal period for most dewormers is 14 days and the eggs laid during that period should be discarded and should not be incubated. The residue in the eggs causes severely handicapped chicks and most die shortly after hatching. Diseases that influence egg production are fowl pox, coccidiosis, infectious bronchitis, Newcastle disease, Avian influenza, chronic respiratory infection, fowl cholera, and infectious coryza. Most of these diseases can be controlled by vaccinating the flock and maintaining good hygiene practices. 6. Extremes Temperature Too high or low temperatures also affect egg-laying. In winter aim to keep the temperature in your coop above 55*F and in summer make sure they have plenty of water and shade to help them stay cool. Feed treats like watermelon, make sure the hens have plenty of fresh, cool water to drink, and put a fan in the coop if possible. 7. Broodiness When hens go broody their hormones tell them to stop laying eggs and incubate and hatch them instead. They will sit in the nest box all day and night, refuse to get up, and steal other hens' eggs if given the opportunity. Unwanted broodiness is a nuisance, but there are techniques to "break" them and get them back into production. 8. Age Hens that won't lay can either be too young or too old. The average age of a hen when she starts laying is 6 months. Some smaller breeds like Leghorns, Stars, and Australorps lay sooner and larger breeds like Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks and Orpingtons start later. The first 2 years of a hen's life are her most productive. By the time she's 5 years old, she will only lay half as frequently as she did during her first 2 years. Good egg-laying hens have 2 egg-laying cycles of 50-60 weeks each. After that, there will be a sharp decline in egg production. A good sign of a pullet approaching lay is the color of her comb. If her comb turns a bright red color she's ready. The reason for the color change is to show the rooster that she is ready to start laying fertile eggs. Her pelvis will be wider and if you look at her vent it will be moist and pink. A simple test you can do to check if your hen is laying already. Hold the hen firmly and turn her on her back. Put your fingers on her breast bone and work your way down to her vent area. You should feel 2 bones sticking up. These are her pelvic bones. If you can fit only 1 finger upright between her pelvic bones she's still roughly 4 weeks off laying, 1 and 1/2 fingers mean she's a little closer, 2/3 weeks and 2 or more fingers mean she's either close to or laying already. 9. Predators that eat eggs Another reason you are not getting any eggs may be predators. Mice, rats, snakes, and some other animals steal eggs, so make sure your coop and run is predator-proof. 10. Free-ranging problem Free-ranging hens sometimes lay their eggs in secret nests. So your hens may be laying after all, but not where you want them to! If this is the case keep them cooped up for a few days so they will learn to use the nest boxes. Fake eggs or golf balls in the nest boxes will make them more attractive for hens too. 11. Egg eating Hen Many time some Hen eatup their own eggs and youay thinks they didn't lay any egg, If you are not getting any eggs, but you are sure that your hens are laying, you might have an egg eater or two in your flock. Look for signs like yolk smeared on the nest box materials. after you have discovered that you have egg eater hen in your flock, u need to find out what are the causes for the habits and you can then find solutions or stop them from eating their own eggs.

How to maintaining A Healthy and successful, safe free ranging birds

Free ranging of chicken or other birds are the easiest way to raise backyard chicken but you really need the right breeds of birds, the right rooster or dominant hen, the right place, the right perimeter fencing(if is in the town), the right hideouts/duck and cover places, and the right attitude. Right breeds/birds birds that are docile, slow-moving, or fat, used to being picked up in the daytime hours, and have no quick reactions to alarm calls and aerial danger flying overhead are just sitting ducks for hawks. Breeds that are naturally good at free-ranging are most of the heritage lines of birds such as Black Australorps, Cockerel, Rocks of all variations, Rhode Island Reds, Buckeyes, Delawares, Wellies, Doms, Leghorns and any other local chicken in your area . These old-timey breeds make good free-range breeds, even when derived from hatchery sources. There are many breeds out there that still have good foraging and free-range tendencies. Contrary to popular lore and belief, white chicken breeds do not specifically attract aerial predation. Any and all birds I have lost to hawks have been those that were grey with a barred pattern feathers~those birds more close in appearance to the hawk's natural prey. And those birds were ranging and living side by side with many white chickens...I've never lost a white chicken to an aerial predator~I range mostly that color and have done so since the age of 10. Right age for free ranging, The younger you can get them out on free-range, the better, particularly if you have older flock members to show them the ropes. Chicks kept in brooders and houses until they are 4 weeks old and older have grown used to sounds and sights in the house and no longer startle as easily, nor are they conditioned to outside sounds and sights. While they are still little chicks they instinctively react to danger signals of shadows overhead, the call of a hawk, fast-moving animals, etc. The older, house-kept chicks can still learn to adapt but they are 4 wks behind on the learning curve and just the right size for a hawk to snatch and run. I turn out my chicks at 2 wks of age to learn about free-ranging with the older flock and am always amazed at how quickly they react to alarm calls and how quickly they find cover. Try an experiment with your new chicks in the brooder...give them an alarm call as if from a rooster and watch them run for cover! They come out of that shell equipped, so make good use of it before they are big enough to attract aerial preds. Don't hatch out chicks in the fall and then try to free-range them~this I have found out from personal experience. The leaves are gone from the underbrush and trees, hawks are migrating through and are hungry, and juvenile chicks are the perfect size for hawk predation. Keep the chick hatching and subsequent free-ranging to the time when most animals have young on the ground, cover is plentiful, and the hawks are not traveling through but have specific territory and young of their own to protect and feed. This is also the time crows have their young and are way more vigilant than we ever could be...and there's nothing a crow pack hates more than a hawk. They will chase them, pecking them and harassing them until they flee, screaming and going as fast as they can. Right rooster or flock master(can be a hen)~ A good rooster will sound the alarm before you even see the threat and will have trained his flock to listen and act on it. He's worth his weight in gold when it comes to free-range. Most will not fight a dog or other 4 legged predators, but the rare few will stand off a hawk, challenge a hawk or sacrifice themselves for the flock. Mostly they will get the flock to shelter when a pred is in the area. A dominant hen can take over this role if she's the right sort. Right place for free-ranging ~ Areas that have plenty of trees, fence rows, shelters, shrubs, etc. where a bird can run and duck under to avoid the stoop of a hawk. If there is a lack of natural shelters or hides, creating them at convenient distances throughout the range can mean life or death for your chickens. Some use pallets up on blocks, some even use pup tents, trampolines, and tarps over range shelters made from cattle panel hoops. Right fence for free-ranging~ The right fence can and will slow down most canine preds from doing a quick grab and snatch of your birds and also keep your birds contained. They don't usually fly over a fence, they fly to the top of a fence and drop down on the other side, so removing any surface that makes for good landing at the top of your fence is imperative~even if you have a 6 ft. high fence. You can string light wire there above the hard top of the fence/gait to discourage the hop-up or extend the fencing materials above the posts and gates by 6-8 in. Chickens, even adult ones, can regularly roost in trees and barn rafters, so a 6 ft. fence does not mean it is going to stop this behavior. Even clipping wing or wings can sometimes not deter a determined escapee. If you have a good fence and keep your birds contained and you still get a neighbor's dog breaching those defenses, you have a leg to stand on when it comes to the legal aspects. A good looking, cheap and effective way to protect suburban birds from 4 legged preds is a simple electronet poultry fence on a solar charger...you can move it to different areas, you can put it away and use it another day, it lasts up to 10 years with good care, you can place it around your coop and not worry about coons, foxes, possums, etc at night and it will shock the vinegar out of even a black bear...and it will definitely keep the chickens in if you leave it energized. Right attitude~ To free-range, one has to accept the risk of possible loss. If done correctly, those losses are very few...I've lost 4 to aerial preds in the last 10 years or more. Three of those were just this past fall(2014) due to me hatching chicks in the fall, right when the hawks are migrating...bad mistake, never to be repeated. I've lost 1 bird at night because she roosted in the barn loft where the dogs could not defend her and got picked off by an owl. All of these were barred rock pattern birds, 3 were due to human error and poor judgment and one was due to poor judgment by the pullet, which is an acceptable loss to me. Don't need stupid birds out on the range. In other words, she was too dumb to live and so didn't get to do so. All in all, these few losses over many years and many birds free-ranged tell me that free-ranging can be done with minimal loss if done properly. Another important attitude to have is that you are going to do everything possible to avoid predation, not just turn out your chickens to the grass with a kiss for luck~ then cry to all and sundry when it goes wrong, telling anyone who free ranges they are putting their birds at risk and are negligent. (This happens more than you could possibly know...people try it once, the wrong way, and then announce it can't be done safely.) Free-ranging can be done and done well for many years if you have the right system in place that ensures your birds are just as safe as they are in a coop and run...and many, many stories of predation start right there~in a coop and run~so these are not fail-proof places to keep chickens. There really is no such thing as a Ft. Knox coop unless it is, indeed, in the middle of a Ft. Knox gold vault. A black bear or a determined pack of dogs can show you in about 5 min. how safe your coop and runs really are. Chickens in a coop and run are like fish in a barrel to predators and there is no possible escape there...at least out on free-range they have a chance to run, fly, duck, and cover and you may not lose all your birds in one devastating attack. bad behavior and cannot perform commands consistently each and every time, this is a breed that will give you trouble with chickens. I'm not saying it can't be done but you set yourself up for failure from the beginning when you try to manage a headstrong, belligerent dog...and then try to get him to understand that no means no, come back, leave it, etc., when there are live prey running around in front of him. A watch dog is not a livestock/farm dog..a watch dog is supposed to bark when there are intruders. That's it. A livestock dog does that and more...they are watching all potential predators for the livestock and are willing to fight for them and even kill for them, they nurture the young livestock and interact with the elders. They sleep and eat with them and will even lick them when they are wounded, will get agitated if they think they are being hurt, and will even break up fights between members of a flock.

SUICIDE ? ANTIDOTES TO SUICIDAL THOUGHTS AND ATTEMPTS

Suicide is the act of intentionally causing one’s own death or deliberately killing one’s self. Research shows that approximately 90% of people who have died by suicide were suffering from a mental illness at the time. The most common mental illness reported is depression. Also, many suicides happen impulsively in moments of crisis with a breakdown in the ability to deal with life stresses, such as financial problems, relationship break-up or chronic pain and illness. In addition, experiencing conflict, disaster, violence, abuse (physical, sexual, emotional, verbal, and so on), discrimination or loss and a sense of isolation are strongly associated with suicidal behaviour. Intense sadness and/or hopelessness; not caring about activities that used to matter; withdrawal from family, friends, sports and social activities; substance (drug, alcohol) abuse are some of the common signs of suicide .

 THESE ARE BIBLICAL VIEW OF SUICIDE

The Bible views suicide as equal to murder (self-murder). God is the only one who is to decide when and how a person should die. We should say with the Psalmist, “My times are in thy hand…” (Psalm 31:15). God is the giver of life. He gives, and He takes away (Job 1:21). The Bible mentions six specific people who committed suicide: Abimelech (Judges 9:54), Saul (1 Samuel 31:4), Saul’s armor-bearer (1 Samuel 31:4-6), Ahithophel (2 Samuel 17:23), Zimri (1 Kings.16:18) and Judas (Matthew 27:5).

Suicide,is the taking of one’s own life, is ungodly because it rejects God’s gift of life. No one should presume to take God’s authority upon them to end his or her own life. Some people in Scripture felt deep despair in life. Solomon, in his pursuit of pleasure, reached the point where he “hated life” (Ecclesiastes 2:17). Elijah was fearful and depressed and yearned for death (1 Kings.19:4). Jonah was so angry at God that he wished to die (John.4:8). Even the apostle Paul and his missionary companions at one point were under great pressure that resulted in despair (2 Corinthians 1:8).

However, none of these men committed suicide. Solomon learned to fear God and keep His commandments (Ecclesiastes 12:13). Elijah was comforted by an angel, allowed to rest, and given a new commission (1 Kings.19:5,15). Jonah received admonition and rebuke from God (John.4:1-3,8-11). Paul learned that, although the pressure he faced was beyond his ability to endure, the Lord can bear all things (2 Corinthians 1:9).

ANTIDOTES TO SUICIDAL THOUGHTS/ATTEMPTS

According to the Bible, suicide is a sin (Ex.20:13). Therefore, if you or anyone around you expresses suicidal thoughts or exhibits self-harming behaviours, seek pastoral and professional help. In addition, the following steps may help to rescue anyone having suicidal thoughts.

Take a few moments to consider letting God prove His love to you (Romans 5:5).

Know that Jesus identifies with you in your time of rejection and humiliation (Isaiah 53:2-6).

Jesus Christ endured suffering and shame so that you might have all your sins forgiven and your weight of guilt removed (Romans 5:7-8; Romans 8:32).

Know that Jesus will forgive and repair your brokenness and restore your joy if you humbly receive Him as your Saviour (Isaiah 1:18; 2 Corinthians 5:17).

Be assured that Jesus will always come to your rescue whenever you are in trouble if only you cry to or call upon Him (Psalm 61:1-2; Jeremiah 33:3; Psalm 50:15).

According to the Bible, suicide is a sin (Exodus 20:13). Therefore, if you or anyone around you expresses suicidal thoughts or exhibits self-harming behaviours, seek pastoral and professional help. In addition, the following steps may help to rescue anyone having suicidal thoughts.

Take a few moments to consider letting God prove His love to you (Romans 5:5).

Know that Jesus identifies with you in your time of rejection and humiliation (Isaiah 53:2-6).

Know that Jesus will forgive you and repair your brokenness and restore your joy if you humbly receive Him as your Saviour (Isaiah 1:18; 2 Corinthians 5:17).

What you need to know about Bird Flu

There is a great deal of concern among backyard chicken farmers at the moment. Many people aren't sure how to care for their poultry during this season. In order to keep your chickens disease-free during this endemic period, we have compiled the most recent information on bird flu here. What is bird flu (or avian influenza disease)?​ Wild birds, captive birds, and domestic poultry (backyard poultry includes chickens, geese, ducks, quail, turkeys, pheasants, guinea fowl, and more) can all be affected by bird flu, also known as HPAI H5. There are two kinds of avian influenza: high pathogenicity (HPAI) and low pathogenicity (LPAI). Infected chickens react with flu-like symptoms when infected with the most common, which is low-pathogenicity avian influenza. Birds infected with the very contagious and highly pathogenic avian influenza die in 90% of cases. How Does Bird Flu Spread?​ Feces from migratory waterfowl are likely to have caused the outbreak, Even though avian flu can spread in a variety of ways, it is most commonly transmitted from one flock to another by infected people or equipment. Usually, this occurs when infected birds are moved to a new location and mixed with healthy ones, such as when chickens are auctioned. As a result, the disease spreads quickly and infects other healthy birds. The disease can also spread through clothing or shoes. The virus can survive up to 100 days in manure. Consequently, any clothing with contaminated manure can still transfer it to healthy birds several weeks/months later. The good news is that avian influenza has not been linked to human illness to date. But how does this affect backyard chickens? Can bird flu affect your backyard chickens?​ It's true that bird flu can affect your backyard chickens, which will likely lead to their deaths. Your backyard chickens aren't like the big commercial farms that got wiped out by bird flu. Since December, more than 160 cases of avian flu have been confirmed in 15 states. Around 16 of the 160 cases involved backyard chickens. Ten percent of infected chickens are from backyard flocks, and ninety percent are from commercial farms. All backyard chickens must be humanely euthanized if any test positive for highly pathogenic avian influenza. This prevents the disease from spreading to more flocks. Nearly 50 million chickens and turkeys were euthanized during the 2014-15 bird flu outbreak. This is a map of current H5N1 Bird Flu Detections (as of 4/27/2022) in the United States (Backyard Flocks) - be sure to check the USDA site for regular updates. Bird Flu: What You Need To Know Bird flu symptoms​ Among the difficulties with avian flu is that it can infect healthy chickens that initially show no symptoms of the disease. So healthy chickens can spread the virus, and you won't be able to see the difference between healthy chickens and infected chickens. However, infected chickens are likely to be dead within a few hours of getting highly pathogenic avian influenza. You can only determine whether or not your chickens have the avian influenza virus by having a laboratory test. Bird flu is characterized by the following symptoms:​ A general decline in the desire to move and be active. Blue coloration on the head. Reduced appetite. Watery eyes Huddling and ruffled feathers among flock members Fluid in the comb and wattles Reduced egg production Coughing Bleeding under the skin on the legs Sudden death Make sure your chickens are properly quarantined if they display any of these symptoms. By doing so, the disease can be prevented from spreading. Find out how you can reduce the risk of avian flu in your flock by taking these preventive measures. How to prevent your chickens from getting bird flu​ While it's not possible to 100% prevent your chickens from contracting bird flu, there are some good biosecurity and preventative measures you can take right now to protect your girls. 1) Restriction of wild birds.​ Keeping wild birds away from your chickens is the most effective measure you can take. In other words, you shouldn't feed wild birds or do anything that might entice them to "visit". In the event that you must feed wild birds, do so as far away from your chickens as possible. Afterward, change into clean clothing and wash your hands. As mentioned earlier, wild migratory waterfowl droppings are also a source of avian influenza transmission. You could cover your chicken run with a roof to prevent droppings from falling in. 2) Keep everything clean and tidy​ It is important to keep your chicken coop clean to avoid your chickens getting bird flu. The following steps will help you achieve this: Keep your feeders and waterers clean and do not allow wild birds to access them. All equipment you use with your chickens (shovels, rakes, etc.) should be thoroughly cleaned. Virkon S can be used. Make sure any spilled feed is cleaned up to avoid attracting wild birds. Every week, disinfect the chicken coop thoroughly. This can be accomplished with Virkon S. When handling chickens, wear protective clothing and shoes. You should only wear these clothes and shoes in areas where your chickens are (this means, above all else, that you should not wear them in areas where other flocks of chickens are). 3) Do not share equipment with other flocks.​ While avian influenza is rampant, you should avoid sharing or reusing equipment from your neighbor's chicken flock. Among these are rakes, shovels, chicken troughs, and other chicken equipment. This may seem overboard, but it also includes reusing egg cartons from your neighbors and other friends with chickens. 4) Set a limit on visitors and visits.​ Do not take any of your chickens to poultry events during this period and limit the number of poultry events you attend. Avoid visiting other poultry flocks during this time period as well. To avoid spreading the disease, wash your shoes and clothes thoroughly after visiting another flock or poultry event. To prevent anyone from outside from bringing the disease into your flock, limit the number of people allowed to visit your flock. 5) Do not introduce new chickens into your flock.​ In the early stages of the disease, it is impossible to visually determine whether a chicken is infected. Therefore, you should not add new chickens to your flock. If you are willing to risk the health of your existing flock for 30 days, you can quarantine new chickens to ensure they are not infected. One of the best ways to prevent this disease, according to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), is to avoid contact with other poultry. Nonetheless, if you still want to expand your flock of chickens, make sure you buy your poultry from a reputable dealer who takes cleanliness and hygiene seriously. What if my chickens already have bird flu?​ You should contact the United States Department of Agriculture immediately if you suspect your chicken has avian flu. As an owner of backyard chickens, you should report this immediately and seek professional assistance. Without it being reported, your chickens will be suffering a painful death - euthanizing them would be humane. Frequently Asked Questions​ Below are some of the most common questions about bird flu: Q: What happens if I eat an egg from an infected chicken?​ H5N1-infected chickens do not lay eggs normally. The World Health Organization reports, however, that cooking inactivates bird flu viruses present in eggs laid by a bird infected with bird flu. The egg must be cooked thoroughly. Q: Can I eat chicken infected with the avian flu virus?​ If the infected chicken (or duck) is cooked to a temperature above 70°C or 158°F, and its meat is not raw or red, it should be fairly safe to eat. A chicken infected with disease, however, is not something I would eat. Q: Is there a risk of humans contracting avian flu?​ A human illness due to avian flu has not been reported in the United States. However, other countries have reported complications and deaths. At this time, there is no reason to be concerned about the risk to the general public. The possibility that avian influenza could eventually mutate so that it can be spread from bird to human remains a concern. Therefore, it is imperative that you report any case of avian influenza and remove dead birds from your flock immediately. Q: Should I start my first flock now?​ Get chickens if you want! You should be fine as long as you buy your pullets from a reputable dealer and follow the safety measures outlined above. If you're going to add new chickens to your flock in the foreseeable future, be very careful. Conclusion​ At the moment, it looks like the virus is still spreading. The good news is that so far only a few poultry farmers have been affected. Researchers believe they have found a cure for avian influenza, but it hasn't passed clinical tests yet. It's a good idea to isolate the chickens you take from your property for at least 30 days before releasing them when you go to a fair. By doing this, you'll make sure they're healthy and haven't gotten sick.

CHRISTIANITY AND SOCIALIZATION

Christian can not live in isolation in this present world. However, we must know when and how to draw the line between worldly and acceptable socializations. To socialise simply means" to talk to and do things with other people in friendly way." There are various ways to socializing, ranging from relating with people in the immediate environment, to getting involved in governance and community development activities, Christiansocialisation cuts across recreation, social interaction, cultural activities and political issues. While there way may be diverse opinion on the extent of the involvement of Christians in social issues . it should be noted that moderation should be the watch word. WORLDLY PERSPECTIVES VERSUS BIBLICAL PERSPECTIVE OF SOCIALISATION. All Christian must know when and how to draw the line between worldly and and acceptable socializations. For instance, Christian are expected to recreate ,but visiting idol place for recreation should be avoided. Christian should avoid participating or feasting at occasions where idols are celebrated. Modernised carnivals with satanic undertones and other places where Christian integrity is questionable should also be avoided . watching of immoral videos, listening to ungodly music and wearing seductive apparels in the name of socialisation are also ungodly things Christians must avoid when socialite. When getting involved in secular activities , Christians should watch out and abstain from things that can make them compromise their faith. BIBLICAL INSTANCE OF SOCIALISATION Jesus Christ and his disciples attended a wedding ceremony at cana of Galilee. He dined with Zaccheaus in his house. Jesus was also a friend to the family of Lazarus, Jesus paid Mary and Martha a condolence visit. He and his disciples also participated in the feast of Passover. Apostle Paul interacted with diverse classes of people for the sake of the Gospel in order to win soul. Daniel was involved in the political administration of land in his days ( Daniel 1:18-21). Remember, whatsoever we do to socialite should be to the glory of God and edification of the saints. Christian are to show moderation in social interaction. No comments: Post a Comment ‹ › Home View web version

Best ways to keep Your Poultry birds Healthy

 Here are some ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.

1. Cleaning the coop

Cleaning the coop is very important for keeping happy, healthy chickens. If you don't clean the coop you risk an infestation of lice, mites, and other parasites. Cleaning your coop isn't always easy but it sure is worth i

1 Cleaning of Feeders and Waterers

Cleaning these out around every two weeks is a good idea. If you have a plastic waterer it gets pretty slimy so you will need to scrub that with some soap and water. If you want to put some Apple Cider Vinegar in the water, but only in plastic waterers not in metal. If there is any poop in the water dump it out and give them some fresh water. Make sure your chickens have fresh clean water at all times. The feeders aren't very dirty unless they have been pooped on or have gotten dirt or something in them. Clean them with soap and water. And make sure you rinse them well.

2 Cleaning of the coop

Cleaning the coop is very important for keeping happy, healthy chickens. If you don't clean the coop you risk an infestation of lice, mites, and other parasites. Cleaning your coop isn't always easy but it sure is worth it. Start by getting all the bedding from the floor of the coop and the nesting boxes and dumping it. If any eggs have cracked then make sure to clean up that mess too. Then if needed you can scrub any really soiled spots with some soap and water. Dry it then put some fresh shavings in. Don't Use Cedar. It is toxic. (I use pine shavings) Also if you want to you can use a Garden and Poultry Dust to dust the coop and it keeps out parasites. My chickens sometimes perch in the nesting boxes and poop in them instead of laying eggs in them. Clean out the poop in the nesting boxes every day or when needed. If your chickens (like mine) perch on top of the coop during the day, there will be a lot of poop up there. Scrape it off

3. Healthy and balance  Feeds

Make sure that you store your feed in places where bugs, mice, and rats won't get into. Plastic containers or metal trash cans work fine. Always make sure that the tops are closed and make sure that the feed inside cant get wet and turn moldy. Make sure there is no poop in the feed (like mice and rat poop).

4. Deworming Your Chickens time to time

Always deworm your chickens if you see any worms in their poop or if your chickens have been around other poultry birds  that has worms. There are a lot of different kind of  dewormers, and you can easily find them in your local stores.

 5 Occasionally free-ranging

This is a great way for your chickens to get some nutrition by eating fresh bugs and grass. Also getting out in the fresh air is good for them instead of being cooped up in a run. If you can't free-range your chickens then instead you could move their pen to a fresh patch of grass (if you have a movable coop) you could also buy a pen and use that for them. They love being able to go run around in a new place.

These are just a few of the things to keep your flock healthy. There are a lot of ways to help your flock stay happy and healthy but these are the basics. I'm sure you can find other ways too. Reading and searching for ways to keep your flock healthy is a good idea if you want to make sure they get the care they needed and sometimes you come across something very helpful you didn't expect.

Thank you for checking out this page. If you have any comments or questions feel free to ask me. I would be happy to to awnser